Gazzar

I think it's a different part number? So, unlikely, but you could try it, so long as you don't need the Landrover to go to work.

And, of they can achieve all that, surely they can avoid premature spline wear through out the drive train, zero corrosion, zero leaks, and electrical system reliability.

I think not, a lot of people aspire to "outdoors". They talk a good walk and "back to nature", whist on the settee and watching Netflix. They'll buy a Slovak defender, or a Nissan Navara or a VW transporter. And change it every few years, and be happy. And that's good. Isn't it? The market for vehicles that can withstand brutal roads in undeveloped Nations is tiny, why would any mainstream consumer products manufacturing company chase that sort of pain?

In summary. To tow a car behind a camper: 1) less than 3/4 tonne 2) Defective brakes. Right?

Nothing wrong with a formula, that's where the "original" Landrover came from: a copy of the war proven US GP light army truck produced by Ford, Willy's and others. The new thing will sell to those who aspire to outdoors, and have cash/good credit ratings. I've my doubts as to just how much JLR can stuff through that particular sales channel, and the engine choices that they will probably favour, but that's their business, not mine.

There's a new defender?

If it's clean, and you mask the badge, why wouldn't it work? Bed liner is supposed to be flexible, and attach very strongly to the subject matter.

No, that would be bad. You couldn't control anything if they did when driving. Better not fit them in the first place. Stick with good old Lucas switches, with all the current for the main beams going through them.

There's a bit more space in a 110 front panel, I think. When I get to it, I'll post up the repair.

I normally use standard BP, but I'm interested to hear the ultimate is better. But to be honest, I'm only interested in a slight increase. The IC is as big as I can fit in front of a series radiator, it's from a RS Skoda, and, anyway, too much torque would probably kill my series LT76 gearbox! So long as it keeps spinning at 60 up hill with the high ratio transfer box, I'll be happy. That is, of course, if the knock isn't fatal. . . I need a week off.

Thank you all, I've told the insurance company it's 100hp. That should be a reasonable honest declaration. I've also asked for a quote for my 18yo son as a named driver. That's going to be interesting.

For insurance purposes I'd like to have a hp figure to give the insurance company. It's a TDI 200 with a turner performance head and will have a diesel Bob performance tune (once I sort the knock). Defender manifolds. Steve Parker exhaust and a Skoda Fabio rs intercooler. I know it's a stupid question and a rolling road is the best way of getting an answer, but..... Any ideas? It's in a series LWB

Use a steel rule as an edge to cut against. Clamp the rule thoroughly, as the risk is that it moves whilst you are cutting. A tippex pen is a good way of marking out. Use plastic angle-section edging to stick stuff together and to hide minor imperfections. Tiger seal will ensure its a permanent assembly.

Ordinary glass has very low sound absorption properties. Laminated is better, heated likewise, but overall you are better served by stopping the sound getting to the windscreen in the first place. I've found under bonnet sound proofing effective, I used 3 layers of "flash band", a tar based product used to seal gutters and roofs, on the underside of my series bonnet, fitted with a TDI engine. This, coupled with a similar treatment on the engine side of the bulkhead, had made the cab into a loud, but civilised place. Conversations are possible at 60 without shouting. When I get the Wright off road mat fitted, and a higher ratio transfer box, I think it will be quite good. Sound proofing is cumulative, it all adds up.

That's a good question. How about the Slovakian defender and the Solihull defender?

Though is that welding on the dumb iron above? Try on the chassis rail proper, above the bit where you are looking now.

That's where it should be on a series 3, but I think it can be elsewhere on a 2a.

If it's 52 years old, it was made in the late sixties, so chassis number will be on the spring hanger of the front spring, I think.

Paint stripper. Wire brush. Then take a rubbing, cover with thin paper and gently rub with soft pencil until the number appears. Then apply a good zinc based primer, coat with several layers of paint. And finally, a good anti corrosion product, dinitrol/bilt hamber whatever. Assuming it's the original spring hanger? Worth it?

100%

Oh, yes, that's awful. But pressing the new ones in can be just as hard, especially with aftermarket spring hangers.

You mean a series. The only Landrover model ever made.

I've decided to go with superpro bushes. The idea of changing 12 metastatic bushes was too much. Even with a press.

Series?

Thank you, I'll investigate the start cap this weekend.