walace58

I have now looked at LR cat, it appears the lock , barrel and operating disc are all one. The problem now seems to be there locks are obsolete and nobody has them. Does anyone on the forum know of a supplier? Thanks

This refers to the collar at the end of the barrel that connects to the operating rod to the door latch. The collar a flat plastic disc has a detent which fits into a slot on the key barrel. On mine the detent has broken out of the disc/collar

Odd , I thought the fuel pumps were in the tank, my 94 and earlier Classic were both in the tank?

Not sure how you do it on a v8, but why not check TDC and put the plate right/ confirm first?

Please explain the issue, is it a problem with the seat belt or the auto lock?

Take it back to the garage

Why not simply connect a temporary fly lead from the pack to any earth? You could have done that in less time than to ask the question!

At LR Legends, Bicester, this year Bishop were showing an open back RRC in red they had fully restored. Originally resident in France. Did not have a soft top at the show but perhaps that is it, prepared for the UK. Cannot remember whose it was .Checked on Bishops website, theirs is brown, there is a picture of it. The red RRC was restored from bottom up, but it was in as new condition, came from Far East I think.

I would be interested in this as well As I have a set of air springs off a classic and my son has a p38 that need some!

I had the same sort of issue, changed amp etc, then problem seemed to be petrol pump. After much investigation turned out to be ignition coil, partially but not totally failing!

Regarding the initial problem, I would suspect faulty distributor, advance retard or even the coil or ignition amplifier

I have 94rrc, there is only one cat box it is underneath the car. You must have 2 one on each down pipe? I wonder why. Where are your lambda sensors mine are at the bottom of the down pipes before they join into one? Suprised your cats are up by engine, must cause extreme heat problems under the bonnet, also we always warned if travelling over grasslands to be careful cats would catch fields etc alight. Yours shouldn’t!

What was actually glowing? Could the smell have been grease, oil etc from the repairs? The cat box is further down, surely, so only exhaust manifold and pipes nearby?

Starter motor shot? Has it got a proper earth?

The only time I had this (and of course we panic don’t we!) it just needed a new oil switch. If it on all the time I do not think it would be a disconnected wire, as I didn’t think it would come on at all.

Had something like this last year, on my RRC 94, 3.9. Driving along, then stopped at road works. Engine ticking over roughly, but no response to throttle. It eventually gave up. Towed to my garage, they initially thought fuel starvation, but it turned out to be the distributor, advance retard. LR price £1400! They sourced a ‘chinese’ one, they take it to bits, check all joints etc, then refit, £150! other issue a couple of years back, was suddenly dying whilst driving normally, would then fire, and run roughly. initially changed ign amp as quite old, probably original, then again fuel pump, but that turned out to be more connector issues. Possible petrol issue , vaporising, so tried better quality, highe octane with lass ethanol. Thought of leads, cap etc, but it turned out to be much more simple, the coil!

My 94 rrc Vogue se has a front spoiler with 3 slots. However the spotlights are inboard by about 34cms of slots on left and right hand side with 3 much longer slots between the spot.ignts

My 94rrc did almost the same a few months ago. Seemed to be running perfectly, then stopped at roadworks and the engine was just runnning, but did not respond to throttle. Eventually stopped. Taken to my garage , they initially thought fuel starvation, current pump is 3 or more years old. Turned out to be failed distributor. LR cost is 1400 quid plus, but my garage source after market ones, take them to bits check all the connections for dry joints etc, ignition amplifier had to be moved as originally with coil. All good now, cost 150 quid!

I have a 94 rrc. Air suspension failed, and after much replacement of parts, eventually reluctantly opted for britpart replacement coil springs. Car is level and ride OK, but when towing back too low despite optimising noseweight. One option is to fit stronger springs, but I am advised that unladen and now towing ride would probably be horrendous. An option may be to fit the rear centrL assisted as fitted to earlier rrc, which automatically compensated for load. This worked fine on my previous 84 d reg.. Does anyone know whether the 94 still has the necessary fittings/ bolt holes etc to fit one, and where an assisted, assume second hand could be obtained?

Bowie, Yes. My front discs overheated, because of the underlying problem, as they were taking most of the load of braking

Have you checked the ABS components etc, why are you assuming it is discs or pads? Sure change brake fluid as it should be changed, perhaps annually, although in Lebanon probably not so much chance of it attracting water! I would suggest getting the whole system checked out as that found the problem with mine

I have a 94 Classic, vogue SE. I had the overheating problem in the Lake District a couple of years ago. Almost total failure up near Kirkstone Pass, but luckily enough room to miss oncoming car!I had also had a few problems with the ABS which we thought we had cured with a new accumulator I had sourced from the States. Disc pads recover after overheating so we decided to change the fluid. My son works for the LR independent that looks after the car and was given the task. Found during the change that fluid was not getting to all the pipes, rear traction control etc. Traced problem back to Wabco ABS master cylinder, which unfortunately is not serviceable and none available. So overheating was due to only front discs and possibly one rear working or less! So garage fitted Dicos servo assisted, basically only needed new disco master cylinder and pipe work, very neat job, and brakes been brilliant for over 2 years, just had to get used to the fact that the travel seems to travel a bit further as previous brakes braked quickly but never snatched. Would not know the difference after a few months

I have a RRC94 and had this problem on my rear near side passenger door. Did as Bowie 69 suggested but no improvement. If you put the window down and lift the knob that goes up and down, can you open the door normally with the outside handle. I understand there is a detent or spring in the latch mechanism that wears or loses tension. Tried lubricating with spray oil (although handbook says do not oil!) Did not help, so had to have a new latch fitted.

Rereading you post, it appears you unlocking solenoid is not operating. You need first to access the solenoid and see whether any power is getting to it to see when you activate the unlocking. Then work backwards or forwards from that.

My 94 rrc had half the problem you have in that on unlocking the button did not come up far enough to release the lock. Oiling of the mechanism was tried, but they are not supposed to be oiled. It would always lock ok . I am told it is a detent spring in the mech that has weakened. Need a new mech to clear the problem.