BogMonster

I have Hella Rally 1000s on my Discovery and find the light output to be very good though they were quite expensive. Bearmach also do a spotlight kit complete with wiring kit for sensible money, or Rebel 4x4 do some too.

When I had this problem I seem to remember that whacking the heads with a hammer un-stuck them quite successfully.

I think the Freelander 15" rims are probably only 6x15 at most (6" wide), which probably isn't wide enough to run a 10.50 on. You can get both steel and alloy 15" rims to suit a Freelander but either will have originally been fitted with 195/80R15 tyres which are a hell of a lot smaller - 27.2" diameter against 31". I therefore think that even if you can shoehorn them onto the rims without your insurers having an epileptic fit, they probably won't physically fit on the vehicle without wiping out large chunks of the bodywork every time you go over a kerb If you want AT type tyres then your choice is pretty limited (if any) - the 17" size for a Freelander is a 225 section IIRC, and the General AT2 doesn't come in one that small and I don't think the BFG AT does either, though I haven't checked. If it was me I would go for 15 or 16 inch rims which can probably be found quite cheap second-hand, and that gives you a much wider range to choose from, of which my choice would generally be the AT2.

I seem to remember (from drowning an old 90 in a river ) that something in the reverse can get seized up and cause issues, others might be able to throw more light on the problem (I didn't fix ours, somebody else did as it was years ago now)

Fat drivers? A household plant sprayer with dilute soapy water mix in is the best thing for locating an air leak, spray it on the spring and there will be bubbles everywhere if it is at fault.

Have you no shame when it comes to spamming your stuff David?

If the 200 version of the Safari means that you have to use the crummy LR plumbing inside the wing, get a Rebel 4x4 copy of the Mantec and save some money. The 300Tdi Safari is much better as it replaces the piping that always leaks... see here http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=78 for more info

The engine should run hotter when it is breathing exhaust gas, not when it is running on fresh air. I would dump the EGR every time!

Yes avoid lots of throttle especially in low gears, and be gentle on the gearchanges as there is a lot more slack in the system with one prop off.

Ashcroft Transmissions do it, and the guts to the transfer box if needed (depends on your t/box) see here http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/part_17.html The ETC is rubbish on many surfaces so I think the upgrade will make the difference you are looking for. I've never got around to it on mine but then I use the Defender for going anywhere interesting.

I agree absolutely. It "may not cost anything to do it 'cos the kit is already there" from a customer's perspective but the overheads of a business have to get funded somehow and the ruddy thing costs a fortune - Testbook has superceded to T4 (not including Testbook 2 and Testbook 3 which I have never seen, though they existed) and then WDS and now IDS and they all cost a lot of money. I would guess the cumulative cost has been about £25000 over the last 12 years just for the hardware, and that is not counting the subscription costs which probably add another 50% to the above figure. Whether or not it pays for itself depends on how big the business is but I can say from experience that it is a lot of money to have to find in a small business when you only use it perhaps three or four times a week.

You want a centre diff lock before you even think about axle difflocks. The ETC does a fairly good job cross-axle. What tyres are you using if you are having difficulties towing off road? Trying to tow on road tyres is likely to end in tears

If it's too expensive it seems a bit odd to ask for opinions as to whether it is any good? Yes there is a short bellhousing R380, it was fitted to a very small number of special order 2.5NA Defender vehicles that were built as 1995 model year, and as an upgrade/replacement for LT77 boxes in older vehicles.

Also check the wastegate on the turbo is working and the circlip hasn't popped off, as if this jams or lets go it can make a fairly horrible noise though I wouldn't have said it sounded much like a belt

A good 300Tdi Discovery will be a reliable truck, a bad one will carry on swallowing money until you can't take any more. Buy on condition not necessarily age or mileage!

Sums up my thoughts pretty well

I do have some contacts and yes I will be following them up just in case but I have never ever seen one here in 20+ years...

Nope - hence the question in the first post I have been thinking about it and one "slight issue" from my point of view is that the freight would cost about £1000 to get one here based on the measurements given...

Anybody can buy a T4 or IDS nowadays, it just costs an arm and a leg so most probably don't bother.

electronic diesel control = a bit more power and a lot more to go wrong

The tube brand/quality helps for sure, but the ones we had issues with you could see the ribs on the tyre had chafed grooves into the tube and inevitably one of the grooves had gone through to the point of leaking.

Sorry but the rough ribs inside "some" tubeless tyre carcasses can and sometimes do cause problems, I know from experience that BFG MTs can have problems with this no doubt others might as well. You could clean up all the ribs as well but it would be a long job

Could be either the IRD or the viscous unit - what happens if you jack up a front wheel and turn it, does the IRD output turn?

Change the SWMBO

Try http://www.mesinternational.co.uk/index.ph...37&vmcchk=1 or http://dbase.ljacksonandco.com:1066/FMPro?...4042&-find=