BogMonster

Welcome You will get 255/70R16 on a std vehicle with no problems as that is what I run on mine - BFG ATs. I don't know about with wheel spacers - I suspect if anything you will probably restrict the size you can fit (hitting the arches) rather than improving it but I don't know - that is just a guess. I am pretty sure 245/75R16 will also go on - a bit narrower and taller. I have seen 265/75R16 fitted, but not without minor modifications. Also look at the General Grabber AT2 which is IMHO just as good and cheaper, that's what I will be getting next time around.

I think it is ESR2297

Yep, we have had the same problem with dealing direct with Castrol - in fact the antifreeze has gone up a lot more than oil!

The bales our old farm baler put out were typically about 10 to 15kg or so depending on how you had the baler set up (dense bales or loose bales) so that's quite a bit of weight on the roof! I have had more than that on a trailer though - a big four wheeled military trailer that is designed to be towed behind a 4 tonner, with somewhere over 200 on it behind the old farm 90 Good photo

OK. Let's route the flight via China then

Interesting - I don't think mine have that but I will get the wire brush out!

Spot on. All tyres have increased in price over the last few months, bit of a bugger but somewhat inevitable. Time to go and bomb the Middle East again

Never heard of such a thing either but it sounds like a good idea

Some of them (mainly export spec) have central locking with no fob - my Dad has one like this, a late 1998 model. I don't know the answer re adjustment but maybe if you take the padding off for a look you might be able to see what is happening - it could just be something a bit sticky that needs a bit of WD40

99% sure your handbrake is too tight and binding on a high spot on the drum this gives a horrible banging noise on deceleration exactly as described. Back off the adjuster a bit and see what happens

Depends where the lash is. You can adjust the pinion to crownwheel clearance to remove backlash there, but if the planetary gears are worn into the cage then you need a new diff centre. Good excuse to fit an ARB

I'm very interested to know what loophole there is because I know somebody that took (against my advice!) a Suzuki vehicle back into the UK a few years ago (prob about 2003) and had a complete nightmare of paperwork and expensive modifications to the vehicle and it was about six months hassle before it was allowed to be road registered.

That must be a winch and a half

Just to buck the trend, I'd also ask David Bowyer - you might get a discount if ordering several May be worth asking for a couple of quotes and see who will do the best deal...

Buy Blitish

5w30 semi synthetic ACEA A1 and B1, though 5w40 and 5w50 are also allowed

I can't check until tomorrow but I would have said Td5s were 2.5" bore...?

I'd guess about 25kg to 30kg per wheel and tyre. I could weigh one of my MT's on alloys if critical but it would be a bit of a pain as I would have to take it down to work to some big scales, so if a guess is good enough I won't bother... I don't think the alloys will be much different in weight to a standard steel wheel, yes aluminium is lighter but the wheel is several time the thickness to keep sufficient strength....

It depends on the boxes. There are 26 tooth, 28 tooth and 38 tooth input gears according to the parts manuals, and clearly they won't be interchangeable. If yours are, then you are lucky!

The dash is totally different, if you pull the bag out you will find a ruddy great hole underneath it so you need to change the whole dash I am afraid - I have seen bagged and non bagged dashes out of the vehicle and I thought about doing the same thing on my old one but it would look hideous unless you changed the whole dash assy. It isn't as difficult or expensive as you might think (it can be done in less than a day) but probably not worth it on what is now a 10 year old vehicle unless you can get it v cheap from a breakers.

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: Personally I hate both because old Range Rovers break down all the time, and having grown up driving cross country in a Series 3 in the days when there were no roads here I developed a hatred of LR leaf springs which will remain with me for the rest of my days

I have heard some "Contrasting Views" on RPI - what's the story then? I have only dealt with them once and found Chris to be extremely helpful for advice (long before I discovered forums I had a problem with my old V8) even though I was only after advice and not buying anything!

Traction control is fine until it throws a hissy fit, you get the "3 bongs" and are left with nothing - not a major drama if you are in a muddy field 20 yards from the road, rather more so if you are in a muddy swamp 20 miles from anywhere Actually I don't rate it highly even when it is working, because the wheels need to be spinning for it to operate and in a lot of off road conditions, that is exactly what you don't want because once you churn up the surface you might as well give up. It's very good on snow and ice though.

£700-800 or £7000-8000?

Afraid so - even the Puma is different. The UK models are EU4 spec designed to run on EU grade diesel; the ones that come here are MMR EU2 spec which have a different level of tune designed to run on poor quality fuel and don't have all the emissions stuff fitted. I don't honestly know what the physical differences are (i.e. I couldn't look under a bonnet and tell you which was which) but I do know you can't take one back into Europe as-is because you won't get an EU certificate of conformity on a non EU vehicle. Having said that they still look pretty clean in terms of no black smoke etc. What they will look like in a few years remains to be seen