BogMonster

With or without replacement engine?

1. easy nuts and bolts job, unless you snap the studs off the retaining turrets! 2. not hard to do yourself 3. leaking hub seal I should think - again not hard to do with normal tools 4. diff lock switch probably u/s, easy to change Check out the technical archive forum on here, you will find step by step guides to many things in there

Looking at Ashcrofts site you can apparently tell by the transfer box codes: http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/part_17.html

I don't think there is a 100% answer Jim. The diff lock bits inside the transfer box were phased out "somewhere around" the 2001/2002 model year transition (i.e. late 2001 build) but I have never seen a definite answer. Certainly most (maybe all) 2002 model year vehicles didn't have the guts in the t/box, mine hasn't. It was reintroduced on the facelift 2003 model year (the one with the goofy headlights), but only as a factory option. Whether the vehicles which didn't have it fitted, used the transfer box with the bits inside, or the one without, I don't know - all the ones that came in here were fitted with the option so they were fully equipped. You can certainly buy the bits to upgrade the transfer box internally for vehicles like mine - Ashcrofts do it. However I have not bothered because for what I use the Discovery for I didn't think it justified the cost - if I am going anywhere needing diff lock I will usually be in the Defender

Which in the Ukraine may well be the front left door, as they are probably LHD

Some of them are just noisy - my 1996 one was and it stayed like that the whole time I owned it with no other problems just noisy when parking. It was some sort of hydraulic resonance IIRC - may or may not be your problem

Mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm nice shiny new 300Tdi AND a 4.0 V8 I guess the "noise" is a horrible banging noise like you might get if you have a round piston in an oval shaped hole

[wheel anorak mode] The wheels are actually all called "Tornado" fitting with the Land Rover theme of naming their alloys wet n' wild e.g. Cyclone, Hurricane and Tempest which are all other LR alloys. Much more catchy than "Style 4" which must be some Euro marketing muppet idea as that is what they use nowadays, maybe they ran out of storms. The "Freestyle" name which everybody uses comes from the fact that they were originally offered on 90s and Discoverys as part of what was called the "Freestyle Choice option pack" which was da bling rimz fitted with 235/70R16 tyres on a Discovery; or the alloys fitted with 265/75R16 tyres and anti-roll bars on the 90. The original part number was ANR1689MNH which became ANR5307MNH later on though I don't know if there are differences between the wheels - they look the same. I would also suggest that most 4x4 OEM wheels are going to be vastly over-rated and so the spokes are not going to pop out the moment you go 10kg over. Rallying a 110 loaded to GVW would probably be a dumb thing to do. By way of real world experience I have bust a set of Tornado alloys when I hit a six inch steel pipe lying across the road, the impact was so hard it shattered the spotlights on the vehicle and bent both the front wheel rims horribly (the worst was about four inches out of round), but they didn't break! [/wheel anorak mode]

Land Rover do not approve the 'Tornado' alloys (otherwise known as "Freestyle Choice") for 110s though when I tried to get an actual figure from LR for their max safe weight rating, nobody could tell me! They are rated for a Discovery which is 2720kg GVW, only 300kg short of a 110's GVW of 3050kg so there isn't a lot in it and it probably is fair to say "they are perfectly safe" unless you have an expedition vehicle loaded to the gunwales in which case I guess alloys are probably not a likely choice anyway To put some numbers on it: Discovery Tdi max rear axle weight is 1650kg i.e. 825kg per wheel Defender 110 max rear axle weight is 1850kg (fitted with std suspension) i.e. 925kg per wheel So the rating for a Tornado alloy "might" be somewhere between 825kg and 925kg. Interestingly the ripoff copies of the Tornado alloy are mostly (maybe all) rated for use on a 110 so make of that what you will See http://www.4site4x4.co.uk/4x4-wheels.aspx for 2 examples! I guess it depends on how cranky your insurers are. I run them on my 110.

Very recently! 2009 MY start production about now I think

Yes I had the same but then it came back on next time I tried, not sure what the problem was and not seen that message before!

It is what is known as "waxing" a common problem with summer diesel exposed to cold temps. I have a particularly lovely jar of diesel somewhere which when warm looks normal, when it is near freezing is 3/4 solid, you can turn it upside down and it stays at the bottom of the jar Fuel filters don't much like it either...

AFAIK no spider on a 200 - it was only fitted on the factory 2 button alarm from 1996 on, it is not even fitted on the 1995 300Tdis

But surely anybody new to a forum would check the "New users read this" sticky posts at the top of a forum before engaging keyboard? Then again

At that age I would imagine it will be Windjammer Blue, it looks like it anyway.

How much black smoke? Check the air filter is not blocked and the intake hoses are not collapsing (particularly the little 90 degree one coming out of the turbo) as restriction in the air intake means smoke because there is not enough air to burn the fuel.

If you have tried RAVE and it doesn't work on Vista (nothing seems to work on Vista so my solution is to not use it never tried RAVE though) I am not sure what other options you have - most of the downloads are RAVE based. Check out the technical archive forum on here, there are some links but I suspect most of those are versions of RAVE.

No - they are just as cr&p! The only difference is that on the later horns there is a two pin plug to plug the horn in, rather than the twin spade connectors on the early type horn. Excessive use of horn and/or anything resembling water still brings them to a strangled squawk. I once blew both horns on a brand new vehicle when I peeped at somebody in the way at work, and that was before it was even delivered, so they lasted about 2 seconds on that one I think the old "disc" type horns tend to last longer but they make it sound like a Japanese tin can so no good to me A set of Kong horns would be quite cool but a bit more expensive B)

AFAIK all the Tdi injectors are just fit and bleed, as you say they are not serviceable. Doesn't hurt to check the spray pattern if you have the kit (ie make sure it is a spray not a spurt!) but if you don't, I wouldn't worry about it.

The pump only runs for a set time so make sure you were not listening to it after that - I know somebody who once spent 2 days looking for a wiring fault on an EFI petrol engine (non LR) before he realised that the in tank pump was only energised for 5 sec after the ignition was switched on, unless the engine was started

Bit of rocking back and forwards in gear with the cover off might loosen things up a bit, assuming your diffs are still connected

At least half the failed diffs I have seen at work are due to the planet gears wearing into the cage so I would suggest changing the whole centre. Front and rear 90/Discovery diffs are all interchangeable as a whole unit but there are differences between different ages of diff in terms of how the bearing adjusters lock, so you may not be able to swap the parts, depends on whether the two diffs use the same arrangement. I am not 100% sure how much of it is common between old and new.

Or move to a country which doesn't make tax account for more than half the cost of fuel

Eh?

The SRS light will not normally reset without a Testbook to clear the code. Perhaps the RF output from the CB is causing problems with some of the electrickery? A transceiver should normally be installed to the battery or the engine bay fusebox.