BogMonster

The info I remember is that it is to do with the pressure on the ends of the drums caused by plasma (generic term before anybody gets stuffy ) pulling down through the layers beneath and pressing the drum ends apart with brute force. The welding on mine is not that great either.

Alloy on mine, no problems, no wear, half the price

Organic acid technology. And it smells like rotting fish too...

I think it depends on what sort of wireless you have fitted. Mine (02 'S' spec) has the 11 speaker highline system and while I don't have it here to check right now, I think there are 2 speakers in the A pillar, two in each front door (bass and mid - mid are smaller) 2 in each 2nd row door (again different sizes) and the sub in the rear door. These may well be different sizes to the units in standard four speaker model. If you are planning on adding ARBs etc you will certainly want the centre difflock in before that - it can be retro-fitted to earlier vehicles but it needs the t/box pulled to bits on some and I believe the ABS/ETC does not work as well.

Welcome back Dave I shouldn't worry about tittle tattle. I find it vaguely flattering that what goes on over here is an item of interest and discussion for folks who profess to despise the place

I believe a mathematician would say "Q.E.D."

Welcome Sounds like a reasonable thing to do to a Jeep Some interior trim is different, rear lights are slightly different, and the brakes were improved a bit on 03/04 models. Also the centre diff lock was reintroduced as an option. Can't think of much else. I have an 02 and prefer the look of the old headlights, and you don't need a second mortgage if you break one!

What Les & Nige said ^^^ I wouldn't drive that on a road I am afraid. Not even here.

Some are noisier than others and I think it is probably down to the balance (or lack of) in the filter unit as it spins at something like 15000rpm I think! So changing it may well shut it up. I have certainly never noticed it on any Td5 I have driven apart from when you shut the engine off after a long run and you can then hear it winding down like a gyro but not usually when the engine is running!

No the T4 is needed to synchronise the two

The flashing mileage is to indicate a mismatch between the BCU and the instrument pack.

Can't see any grooves in mine... I would say it depends on where and how you use them - lots of angled pulls and gritty mud then I am sure you are right. Relatively straight pulls and on boggy grassland where the rope stays relatively clean - alloy is no problem

I presume this is they http://www.rustmaster.co.uk/

The best thing to shut up an errant belt is the very fine graphite powder that you buy in little bottles from hardware stores for lubricating padlocks etc. I have tried just about everything over the last ten years including a number of belt treatment sprays etc and nothing else works as well. Forget anything which starts out "wet" as once it dries out the squeal comes back worse than ever - usually about 5 minutes! I usually have to do the drive belt on my Milemarker pump about once a month, it is quicker than changing the belt which I should have done ages ago

Early engines certainly do not automatically go pop at 60k miles as I know of a couple round here with 150k+ and definitely original engines both head and block. As already said, the fuel rail pressure is 4bar/58psi on all Td5s so there is not that much pressure and it is only sealed by O-rings.

No it isn't the same as MTF94, it is a new (#kin expensive) synthetic lubricant and at the moment I don't know of any equivalents. However it is probably cheaper buying it under the Castrol name, than getting a bottle of "genuine Land Rover gearbox oil". Maybe try a Ford dealer as the same oil is used in the MT82 gearbox in the Transits. Been discussed before http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=19567

Hello Dave, long time no see IIRC the early 3.9s in the Discovery were V-belts, but the later ones were definitely serpentine belts as my 1996MY was so equipped, serpentine belt but with the old dizzy on the front, and they would have been like this up to the end of the Discovery 1 production (last model year was 1998). I have a feeling they changed about 1993 but that might be the date the 3.9 was introduced, not sure.

The wiring must be different though, because on the facelift version (if you call making it four eyed a facelift!) the lights come on together don't they? Dip and main beam only come on together when you flash, on the old one with the sensibly priced headlights. The front bumper is also different on the 03/04 models to the old type, so I would have thought that needed changing too, but maybe there is a way round this?

Oh perish the thought Nigel, 13 posts and oh, er, seven mentions of lrseries.con Shoulder pork and ham anybody? PMSL @ BBC's subtlety

It isn't often that you beat the system but that is definitely 1:0 to Ian

Correct - and while I was also doom and gloom when I first saw the revised arrangement, I have to say having seen quite a few at work, it is amazingly reliable compared to the old bearings. I can't vouch for water and mud sealing off road but for a vehicle used mainly on road it doesn't seem to be a weak point. The other bit that I confidently predicted would cause bother was the Watts linkage but to date I do not think we have replaced a single Watts linkage bush on the D2.

There you go. I have never seen under the bonnet of a P38 just going on the D2 engine. The only P38s here are stinky old diesels.

Depends on where in the world you are - but you are right for the UK market

The early Td5 Discoverys were pretty good and a much better car on the road. 300Tdi is better for DIY and has a lot less body electronics in it if you are planning to keep it for a while. It really depends on whether you value simplicity or road performance. I think the D1 is better off road because it has a difflock and the front end can be modified easier for better clearance, also the clearance at the rear of the D2 is worse because of the overhang. Having said that I love my D2 and find it much better to drive than my old V8 D1. The D2 has also done away with some of the corrosion traps in the D1, the seam inside the second row door aperture being a classic example.

If Y reg is about 2000 (?) I would think that it doesn't have a distributor, it will probably have the Thor engine which has the ignition controlled electronically by the ECU and has four coils stuffed around the back of the head so you have to take the engine out to change them (slight exaggeration but not much!) I have no idea how the gas system would tell the engine ECU what to do with ignition though