BogMonster

I probably should know the answer to this but I don't..... If you run a petrol engine (in this case a 2 stroke but I guess the principle applies on anything) with way to big a gap on the spark plugs, what are the downsides? Does it run hotter/burn plugs out? or doesn't it much matter as long as it runs? Just wondering as I changed the plugs in my outboard yesterday, supposed to be 30 thou and they were 50 to 55! oh and three of the four broke off when I had the feeler gauge in them so probably changed just in time I think, God knows how long since they were last changed The engine ran fine, a bit of a misfire at idle on 1 cylinder (its a V4) but smooth as you could wish for over 2000rpm. No doubt it will run better when it goes back in the water later on though

Beast of a thing! So is the 350 Buick basically a development of what became the Rover V8, or how come it fits?

I am not going to respond to most points yet, will see how the discussion develops, but I would like views on one thing which is raised by Si. I think the only threads that have been deleted immediately without any discussion among mods have been gratuitous spamming: I deleted one such thread from the Discovery forum the other day and somebody else deleted an exact copy of it also from the Discovery forum less than 24 hours later. The poster was a commercial business who had not posted anything else on this forum. Posts in the Classifieds from people who have only just registered are also, as far as I am aware, deleted immediately. I feel that if somebody can't be bothered to read the advisory post stuck to the top of that forum then I don't have much sympathy. It would be a lot of work for the Classified forum moderator if it was necessary to go through a moderation process on every single post from a new user, because there are a lot of them! I just had a quick look and the first page of the Recycled forum contains 28 threads all of which are from this month and all except a handful are classified ads from people who didn't bother to read the post at the top of that forum. Does anybody think we should NOT do this to posts which are an "open and shut case"? You may of course then be nominated as an extra Classifieds moderator if you have that much spare time

Now that the LR4x4.com forum is firmly established, the moderating team feel that it is time for a Forum Charter to establish what constitutes reasonable use of the forum and take into account recent concerns expressed to the moderating team about a number of aspects of the way the forum is managed, such as: - the need for clear direction on posting rules and regulations for new members, and clear direction for moderators to ensure consistent action by moderators - the relevance of some posts on the forum and whether there should be more restrictions on keeping things to Land Rover content and/or a separate forum for Off Topic posts - the need for transparency and user input in the way that moderators and administrators are appointed and dismissed - the need to take into account the wishes of all forum members and particularly those who have contributed to the upkeep of this forum whether financially or otherwise Please would any users who have a view on any or all of these issues, or any other issue related to how the forum is administrated and how decisions are (or should be) made, post a reply to this thread with their views. In view of the need for this to be an open discussion for all to see, people should please post here rather than PM individual moderators. In order to try and structure this discussion and the way forwards, the moderating team propose that a forum charter be crafted taking into account current policy as modified by the comments received, which will cover all of the matters listed above and any others which a significant number of users feel are important, and this will then be published in draft form for further comment. Once any comments are incorporated, a decision will need to be made on the adoption of this and a practical solution to this might be to have a poll for members to vote on with a majority of the votes cast required to be "for" the adoption. Again comments on the requirement for this are welcome! Current situation The current situation on this forum is relatively straightforward, in case users are not aware of the current processes we follow the main points that would be covered in the forum charter are outlined briefly below: Forum values This forum has been established to provide an independent and open place for discussing and sharing information and activities relating to Land Rovers. The forum's independence is maintained by the generous contribution of its members, which keeps us free from the influence of magazines or other sponsors. Contributions are not disclosed and do not secure the member any additional rights, they are a gift to the LR4x4 community enabling all to share equally in the benefits of an independent forum. Appointment of moderators If a need is identified for a new moderator, somebody in the existing team will usually put forward a suggested person for discussion, though there have been cases where users have nominated themselves by PM'ing a moderator/admin and this is perfectly acceptable. If a suggestion is put forward then the user will be approached to see if they are interested and willing to do the task. The moderating team will then discuss this for a few days and take into account things such as the contribution the member makes to the forum (number and quality of posts), whether they have knowledge relevant to the forum subject, whether they are likely to have common sense in deciding what is and is not acceptable, and so on. If the general feeling is that the candidate is suitable then the appointment will be made, or if there is a choice then the one felt to be most suitable will be appointed. 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Our experience suggests that the vast majority of users understand the general principle of this and few step over the line, there is the occasional rapped knuckle but usually the only problems occur when somebody new comes in determined to cause trouble. Please, in responding to this post, offer solutions where possible and not just problems. We don't want to hear "I don't like X." - we need to hear "I don't like X, because of Y and I would like you to do Z instead". Initially this post will be "sticky" for replies for 2 weeks and we will consider the responses at the end of that time. We look forward to hearing your views!

Waterproof dash ... Is that the only bit of the vehicle that is waterproof then? :lol: :lol:

Post up a pic, I bet it makes it look better too I always thought the std tyres on a Freelander look a bit weedy, like the standard tyres on just about everything else LR make in fact!

Nope I haven't figured out what scam the Beeb are pulling yet

Commuting here is much safer - regular high winds make it an umbrella-free zone most of the year Though I don't need an umbrella anyway, I just get into the rover, and 2 minutes later get out again. I can park as close as 2 feet from the door to work, depending on which way round I park

Another tip. If you park in an area with lots of RF radiation (telephone exchange or a TV transmitter for example) in one of the 1996 ones you can have a hellish job getting back in to it! I know of several people here who had to have their Discoverys towed 100 yards or so from the source with the alarm going ape, before they could get it to shut up and go! The best place to put the key fob in this case is against the front windscreen as close as you can get it to the speedo binnacle - reason being that the aerial wire runs across the top of the speedo head. It is also the reason the range is usually better when you are in front of the car where it can "see" through the windscreen, rather than behind the car where the signal is going through the bodywork.

The important thing is not to start poking away at the button too far away because then the rolling code gets out of sync and it takes a few goes to catch up when you do get in range. Waiting till you are right next to the vehicle is better and then it will work first time.

Yes

OK o Ye of little faith.... Here is a gamma'ed version of the image Note the fact that the suspension has inadvertently been pasted over the top of the front RH tyre They should send whatever the real one is here to test it. We will break them anyway, so we might as well do it now so they know what to fix before selling them for real

CR2032 is a generic battery any type will do as long as it is a CR2032. think it is probably a watch battery. Older 1995MY one button fobs use two batteries, CR2016s I think. You don't need to mess about discharging the thing, never had any problems, just sometimes need to press the unlock button a few times to resync the rolling code Range depends on vehicle, the antennas in the old vehicles are nowhere near as sensitive and the 1996 model vehicles like my old one are particularly bad, gotta be right next to the vehicle a lot of the time. Some time in 1997 (I think) they changed the antenna design or location in the vehicle, and the later ones will work from anything up to about a hundred yards away if you are line of sight.

usually if there is a rock stuck in the caliper, reversing off and then jamming the brakes on hard will shift it! quite a common problem here with a lot of gravel roads sounds like you have found the problem though... don't forget hub seal & drive member gasket, change those while you are at it

I reckon it is a picture of a Merc G-wagen which has been Photoshopped with some vaguely Landrovery front end bits side windows, door handles etc are pure G-wagen not sure about the styling but it could be a lot worse! edited to say yes def a Photoshop job, put it in to Paint Shop Pro or something and wind up the gamma correction then look at the RH front tyre....

As already said if you run it dry it may have damaged the pump. Do you get max revs when you floor the throttle at a standstill or does it only go up to about 3500 or so? if that, then I would say the pump is kaput. If you don't have a rev counter fitted then park it next to another Td5 and rev each briefly to full revs in turn, the difference is very obvious if there is a problem. It could be air and yeah 90mph in 4th is one way to bleed the system though I have definitely never tried it bleeding technique after filter change is 5 pumps on the throttle wait until the engine light has stopped flashing then full throttle and crank it till it starts

first thing to do is check for a rock stuck in the caliper, though normally it just makes a horrible noise rather than making everything hot is it just the disc getting hot or is the hub hot as well? it could be the brake binding but sounds more like a wheel bearing to me

The good news is that you can get your hand in behind the wheel to check this clearance. I seem to remember that I couldn't get my hand down between the tyre and the suspension mounting so 235s might fit but they are gonna be tight!

Recommend name change to Les Haynes Another excellent one for the archive

If there is a problem it will be with the sidewalls on the inside touching the suspension, I had 215/75R15 on my old Freelander Td4 and even 215s were pretty close. But I guess if they are on Freelander rims already, they have been fitted? might be worth checking the sidewalls for any evidence of rubbing

The thing about a front spring is that even if it does pop out it can't go anywhere because of the shocker going through it, and once everything levels up then it will always go back in. Mine sometimes boing and twang going across axle twisters but never fail to re-seat (in fact the boing and twang I think is probably them re-seating rather than slipping off the cup). You could fit cones but I think it would be a bit of a waste of time unless for some reason you are going for an alternative arrangement of shocker which doesn't go through the spring.

damn u beat me to it Tonk

it usually is the belt, collects dust with the efficiency of a Dyson Root Cyclone mine is always squealing but a quick puff from a small bottle of graphite dust onto the belt with the engine running sorts that out

How about this for an expertly cranked trailing arm? Beautiful job

300Tdi Discovery alternators are 100A not 120A, so maybe if it is a 120 it is not a standard Tdi alternator? The only 120A ones I can think of are Td5 ones which I *think* are 120 but they are a different thing altogether. As long as you don't have a rev counter it doesn't matter what size pulley you have on there - you just need the right length belt, all belts are the same width (7PK I think i.e. 7 grooves). If it is a big pulley it is an early one requiring belt ERR3287 if it is a small pulley it is a later belt ERR5911. If you want the non squeak belts the early one is PQS000030 and the later one is PQS000040. The only differences are that the small pulley makes the alt work better at idle revs, and it screws up the rev counter if you have the wrong one fitted. No rev counter, no problem.