BogMonster

my guess is something to do with the different throttle mapping used in low range try disconnecting the hi-lo range sensor on the t/box and see if that cures it? not sure if it is "normally open" or "normally closed" switch, it may default to low range so you may need to short the wires to get high range throttle map it might be a cheap solution to do this if you can live with the jerky throttle in low range!

It is, a bit like "flange"

everything is the same from back in the good old days.... you can buy a Series 3 wheel bearing kit most of which will fit all 90's, 110s, Discovery Tdi's, probably Range Rovers too (not sure about that though). There are just a couple of different seals on different ages/types of vehicle but again they can be fitted, lots of people use the older type seal (designed for oil filled bearings) on later vehicles with greased bearings as they are supposed to be better. the other thing that has never changed is that they STILL don't grease the bearings on new ones properly even after 20+ years!!! nowadays everything is different though I have to say the new "sealed" bearings on things like the Discovery 2 don't seem to give any problems at all.

Didn't somebody in here make a whole tank up out of 6mm steel or something? The Equipe alli tank guards look quite sexy, though I have never biffed the side tank on a 90 on anything myself, unlike the rear tanks which get biffed quite a lot. Mind you there aren't that many tree stumps in the average peat bog

Yeah they won't fit on a (spit) Shogun though, which is what they are for, 33x12.50 are just a little too big but 32x11.50 are ok. Well they will fit but they rub like hell!! Both Cooper and BFG suppliers have stock of their respective types so that is good Thanks sorry Ripley didn't see your comment on the actual size first time round - thanks he is using BFGs at the moment anyway so will probably stick with those - I had originally been led to believe they might be in short supply (in fact they are - but there are enough for 1 on each corner which is the main thing )

Potentially, yes. In fact the steering shaft is pretty safe as the bolt has to come right out before the steering UJs can slip off, and that is pretty unlikely. Equally unlikely that a nyloc nut on ball joints will come right off, but not hard to check so worth doing!

I'd check whoever fitted it did everything up tight (steering shaft from wheel to box, and all the steering joints) just in case...

Come here and say that naaa naa na naaa naaaah My armchair is invincible!

No, ta, I will make enquiries, I have a Coopers supplier haven't spoken to them yet though. Thanks

Quick question: 32x11.50R15 tyres. BFG MT is one option. any others in a good MT pattern available in that size in the UK? seems to be a rare size, most things on Google seem to be US suppliers. ta S.

You'll end up with a 450bhp chipped and intercooled wheel bearing that will do 200mph and cost you 18 grand Am I allowed to say "I told you so" or will I get a slap?

I think the trouble with the ARB ones is that they cost more than the rest of the vehicle?! Look good though, if cost were no object I would probably get one. As Will said the winch mount should NOT flex, mine does a little under high load which worries me, you do not want twisting stresses applied to a highly stressed alloy casting.... like a winch body!

Get a genuine one if I were you. I had the same thing on my old 90 and I got a cheapo pattern one, it was rubbish and doing the same thing within six months... I suppose it depends how fussy you are about a little clunk (very fussy in my case) my one was going donk-donk-donk-donk all the time driving over rough ground, took ages to find what it was but it annoyed the hell out of me! I sold the vehicle instead, that got rid of the noise

Neither would being in neutral when it also clunks apparently, so I doubt it is that unless it is completely bladdered. Usually an A frame ball joint clunks when you come on and off the power, not cornering or coasting.

Another vote for Dell. I actually have a Toshiba laptop myself, but we got some Dells at work recently and one of them gets bashed about doing duty as a programming unit for vehicle speed limiter systems, and it has performed 100% reliably. The only gripe I have in this role is the battery life isn't that good (its in the vehicles or out on test drives most of the time, away from mains power) and takes a long time to charge up again compared to my Tosh, but can't fault the rest of the machine. I think they were a bit less than £400 the ones we got, all it needed was Windows and a USB port so we got the cheapest available at the time, Inspiron 2200s IIRC. I guess they make their money out of the delivery charge, most laptops (these were no exception) come well packed in a solid little box which would easily stand regular courier abuse. Ours came all the way from UK by DHL and arrived unscathed, which is more than can usually be said for stuff that comes here by DHL!

Yep that would be the thing to do.

There was no movement in the one on my old Discovery either, such that I nearly thought "oh bugger it I don't know what is wrong" and left it. When I stripped it down I found all the plating was coming away from the bearing shells and the grease was like a grinding paste. No play at all that you could feel though... IIRC the same was true of my old 90 (before I owned it - it used to belong to the company I work for in a previous life, several owners back) it had a horrible noise, we thought it was the diff then too, but again a wheel bearing on the way out. Not to say it is that - it could well be the diff pinion bearing or something or also possibly the planetary gears inside the diff - but I wouldn't rule it out just yet as I have made that mistake before!

Never heard of such a problem and my old 90 was a 1995 model year 300Tdi, no problems with 3/4 just reverse was a bit disagreeable.

Could be, I have also seen a wheel bearing give similar symptoms though, worth checking, particularly the "noisy turning in one direction but not in the other" bit.

Ah ok, most of the vehicles that old have long since been scrapped. Thinking about it that number does vaguely ring a bell now, I will keep an eye out, is it a dark green SWB? The West Store is still there, same place, bit bigger than it was then though! Don't suppose you recorded it....? I have just been copying some old videos made by BBC and ITN just after 82 from all the news footage ... brings back a few memories some good as I PMSL at seeing "some very young people" some less good.

It isn't a number I recognise off the top of my head, but it may be around somewhere. There aren't many Series vehicles in town these days, most of the survivors are out on the farms and the rest are most likely to be found in the quarry! SWB/LWB, what colour? Yes the West Store is the main retail outlet in town. Why?

The cause is that the back diff is held in by 3 rubber bushes, these can and do fail and this allows the diff to move around, it is usually apparent if the driver does a lousy gearchange (which is also more often than not what F&&&s the bushes up over time) or if you back off the throttle and then plant it to go from over-run to drive suddenly, big clonk. I don't think the diff can "escape" due to the bush design but it does make a F horrible noise!!! It shouldn't have anything to do with tyre wear (maybe another problem there) and almost certainly just needs one or more of the bushes changing. IIRC there are two of one type and one of another, but I don't have part numbers. No doubt Ralph will be along presently

The oil migrates down the harness from the cylinder head but usually only causes misfires not cutting out completely. My advice would be to replace the harness inside the head (half an hour job, take off the rocker cover, unplug harness where it comes out of head, unplug 5 injectors & pull out harness, dump old harness, fit new one costing about £40 plug in injectors and replace rocker cover) Then before plugging it in to the main harness clean out the multiplugs on both the head and ECU end of the main harness, and the sockets on the ECU, using lots of electrical contact cleaner like LPS or something, blow it out with compressed air and refit. This usually does the job but as I said I don't know if the cutting out will be due to this anyway, I have only ever seen misfires (and whatever the tech bulletins say they all do it, even on new ones the injector harness should be regarded as a "service part" expect to replace every 60k miles or so) I also vaguely recall an "engine cutting out at high revs" problem I heard of once was something to do with the crankshaft sensor - worth checking anyway.

New 110s have two "cup holders" built into the front of the cubby box. Personally if I have to crack open a beer I usually just hold it in one hand, use the other for changing gear, and forget about steering much till I finish it (which isn't too long) also this way you can hold it outside the vehicle so if you do spill it on hitting a bump it doesn't make a mess easy really

more to the point did you get it to not leak I wouldn't put a sunroof in as they seem to be a permanent leak!