BogMonster

CV51NZA must belong to somebody with a pair of scissors, doesn't see much off road use anyway with where those lights are under the bumper as they would be gone at the first ditch!!! Mine are mounted nice and high up on the 2 tabs left over from the original roller fairlead which was fixed using four bolts, the alli hawse one just uses 2 and the other two redundant ones have holes just the right size for lights to go on

gsr that is correct, I have seen a few failures where the front tin plate on the pulley has let go and it has shed the belt I did read somewhere that somebody (Bearmach) was doing a proper cast crank pulley for the 300Tdi that does the same job but with some degree of robustness, but I never got around to investigating. I'm also not sure what is now fitted to the very latest 300Tdi engines like I have in my 90.

Would you like brake fluid with your Scampi sir?

God I haven't been at the "chokingly short of breath and about to swallow own tongue" stage of laughter since the brake fluid and scampi story Better luck next weekend

do you own a roofrack? Yes do you use it for work, leisure or both? Both are you happy with it, or is it a compromise, because what you wanted wasn't available? Everything is a compromise, but the main compromise is that if you want something that is built like a brick ****house (and no sense in having anything else with our roads) you are carting a lot of weight around when you aren't using it, which is for a lot of the time, and it is draggy and noisy at speed. Otherwise it is fine, if you want the space and the strength then you need to live with the consequences if a modular roofrack system was available, allowing you to buy separate parts to build, then rebuild the rack to suit your requirements would you be interested? I might be, but I suspect something that would easily bolt together would also easily fall apart if battered on lousy roads for a year or two!

I just look where I am going, cheaper all round

Nurse! Les has stopped taking the pills again

Dad's Cessna 172 used 100LL, not quite a Sea Fury though There used to be a fairly active motocross club here and I did hear the bikes went rather well on 100LL but I think after a while somebody decided it was cheating!

One of the 110s that we run on the company hire fleet had to be recovered a few years ago after a rock went through the grille (normal plastic Defender grille) and holed the radiator. I took a replacement vehicle out to the customer along with 10 gallons of water in cans, and drove it home gently with the cap on the radiator header tank loose (to prevent pressurisation blowing the coolant out) and topping up as required But despite the fact most of our roads here are gravel, I think it is the only case I can recall in about 10 years so I guess it is not likely to be a common problem in places like the UK that don't have gravel roads!

Is it true that in the UK if you get popped by four different Gatsos on the same stretch of road within a short space of time you will lose your license? Ah the bliss of living in a land with no Gatsos, and no traffic lights (and thus no cameras to watch them, obviously)

Well I usually put lb ft not lbft or lb/ft so what do you make of that then? Nm are a nasty foreign invention that should be banned along with kilowobbles and driving on the wrong side of the road bah humbug ;)

It does look original, but it is different to the ones I have seen here (all ex British Army as you would expect!) Hmmm no brakes ... so putting about 2200kg of -20+10 gravel in mine might have exceeded the unbraked towing weight ever so slightly then unladen on weighbridge - 2500kg (90 and trailer) laden was 4700 odd oops no wonder the suspension looked a bit flat. They don't bounce when they are like that though

The ability to fix a broken rope in the field in less than 5 minutes is one of the things I really like about plasma, I have thankfully not needed to do it yet, but I know that if I do break one I can fix it and carry on trying to get out rather than it being an "oh F what am I going to do now" moment - which I have had with a broken wire rope before.

interesting - is it a non original jockey wheel? mine doesn't have one (big swing down leg as described) nor does Dad's nor several others that I have seen. mine doesn't have any brakes either but that is another story

I agree with TC, hammersh&te and smoothsh&te have all the sticking power of a tube of Superglue which expired in 1978! I did my old Discovery back bumper with it once, spent ages sanding it down smooth, and it all just came off in about 3 months. Can of Holts aerosol paint is a much better bet IMHO, available in matt or gloss black, silver, gold, yellow, orange....

It is indeed

Standard 90 rear springs are not a bad option for the front, to recover the height lost by adding a lot of weight. I found they were a little too high for mine and caused prop vibration but the Milemarker and mount I have are not that heavy. You can also kill two birds with one stone by putting your rear springs on the front and buying a slightly taller set for the rear, which gives you a lift at both ends for the price of 2 springs Alternatively you could get a set of "lifters" (spring spacers) from the likes of Mill Services, these are fairly cheap too and mean you know exactly how much it will go up. When I got mine, what I did was sit the vehicle on a level floor, measure the height, then put a trolley jack and a block of wood underneath the centre of the vehicle (front bumper for example) jack it up until it looks about right, then measure it again - hey presto you now know what size lifters to order

The crossply 7.50x16 SAGs are probably the best 7.50 pattern available, though they are fearsomely noisy and wear out rather quickly too! I just wish they did a 33x12.50R15 with that pattern cos I'd have a set like a shot - but they don't

Well all I will say to that is you lot need to improve your co-ordination I have had a Sankey for about 6 years now and have never had any problem with the door hitting anything on the trailer nor have I left parts of fingers, nails or anything else behind and it isn't for lack of overloading - I think the trailers are rated at 3/4 ton? well I have had over 2 tons of crushed rock in mine... The only thing to remember is not to slam the back door with the top of the NATO hitch in the up position because that does make a mess of the door bottom Alternatively if you are only towing it once a year it ain't a huge job to take 3 nuts off and chuck the spare in the back. Cheapo hitches designed for mean farmers - well you get what you pay for. Be aware that on some of them the (welded on) ball can be rated to as little as 500kg rather than 3.5 tonnes on the proper forged DB item, and most I have seen are only 1.5 tons or so. The military LR's that are here mostly have the NATO hitch fitted on a sliding drop plate, that way you can use it on the next hole down and have none of the above problems.

Time for a sig diet when the sig takes up 15 times as much space as the post I think I had to go and buy a bigger monitor just so I could fit it all on one screen!

and furthermore if anybody can break either a NATO or a 5 ton DB hitch recovering a vehicle then you are trying too bluddy hard and need to slow down before you kill somebody!!!

I understand that the heavy duty four-bolt type Dixon Bate hitch will fit a 76mm NATO eye (according to the DB website anyway) but a standard 2 bolt one type 201661 (as supplied by Land Rover as a genuine part) definitely won't because I have seen those and they are much too small. Look here The one you need is 201910, the 4 bolt DB hitch which is rated at 5 tons which is way over the top! I seem to recall that some Camel Trophy Discoverys were fitted with these hitches, and I doubt you will need to worry about breaking one to be honest - any more than you would have to worry about breaking a NATO hitch which has a minimum tensile strength of something like 22 tonnes.... big spreader plate behind the crossmember is the important thing. You can fit a NATO hitch on the crossmember with a 235/85R16 spare wheel, it is just very tight which means you need to open the back door to hitch the trailer on, which may be a PITA or may be bearable, depending on how often you tow the trailer. It is a problem because as you have no doubt found out, there is not room to open the top of the jaw with the tyre in place. Basically you can get around the clearance problem by opening the rear door, lifting the top of the hitch, putting the trailer on, closing the hitch and then closing the door again, I have to do this with mine if I have a spare on the back door but most of the time my spare lives on the roof rack on the 90 so not a problem. It is mildly inconvenient, that is all, unless you tow a trailer every day when it would probably start to irritate! The 4 bolt DB hitch will probably have the same problem though, as it fits to the same four bolt holes as a NATO hitch (higher than the 2 bolt hitches which go through the bottom set of bolt holes on the x-member) so I would be almost certain that the pin would hit the spare wheel and you'd still need to open the door to hitch the trailer up... Edited to add: The "pinball wizard" combination ball-jaw hitches won't fit a NATO either as they have the same jaw dimensions as the 201661 type jaw. the only other pin hitch I have seen that will fit a NATO ring is the old 2-bolt galvanised type of hitch that LR used to supply years ago (no longer available) but that is actually too big and so it is horribly clonky to tow with - but it will fit! I'd get a NATO hitch and put up with opening the back door each time

Well I had my 10mm Bowrope with the front end bottomed out and the back end nigh on lifting off the ground the other day, trying to shift something, and it didn't snap... Maybe there is a quality issue with some bits of rope? there seem to be a lot of stories of it snapping but I have the impression I ought to have broken mine several times and I haven't!

Yes it does count Usually people abusing the vehicle with it not in difflock, or jamming it into difflock with wheels spinning flat out, are common ways to bladder a centre diff

I may be wrong but I thought at least the 200/300 both used the same crappy fork, I honestly don't know about the older engines such as TD and NA, whether they use the tinfoil one or the armoured one.