BogMonster

Foot hard down on the smoke pedal. Bond would be proud

Nah it is a mere 22 tons! You can buy them here, ball bolts on to the jaw part, no idea who makes them though. Bout 74 quid here I think

Nowt wrong with carstuckgirls.com just the bandwidth is an issue for me

here it is why not to buy non-gen bushes go down the post a fair way and look at the photos of the bushes on the bench utter rubbish genuine ones fitted then and still fine now with lots of off road use

Free women

County - agreed! The best value IMHO are the "OEM" bits from the likes of Bearmach and Allmakes, so your Coopers filters, Magneti Marelli alternators, Bosch starters, GKN driveline bits, many are the same as genuine without the expensive box. For example the Bosch Tdi starter motors even have a Land Rover logo on them.... Much of the Own-Brand stuff from certain suppliers is carp. Especially true of "unidentifiable" bits like bushes and things, there's a post on here somewhere about some shocker bushes I bought for my 90 (not from our shop I hasten to say as we were out of stock!!), they lasted 150 miles (10 of which were off road) and were totally shot away, worse than the ones I took out! rubbish quality and I only buy Genuine bushes if I can especially the ones like radius arm bushes that are hard to change. General rule for me is that if it is more expensive and more of a PITA to change than the cost of the part is worth then I would get genuine, if it is easily changed and/or you know the bits are good as OEM, then save the money and get those. OEM filters for example, coopers or crosland no problem at all and much cheaper. I hope this doesn't qualify as spam but I deal with Bearmach on a trade basis for LR parts we sell in the shop at work and their stuff has never caused any problems for us, in fact I can't recall the last time somebody brought something back to whinge about it. On the two occasions we did have to whinge about minor things (one was some alloy wheel nuts that lost their caps which weren't crimped on properly, the other was some muppet who had taken some 300Tdi Disco air filters out of their packets and folded them in half to make them fit in the crate!) they were very apologetic and supplied replacements FOC. Propshafts and things, difficult one. I can't say for sure but in my personal experience genuine ones last much better but are a few times the price so I guess you pays your money and takes your choice...

Yeah I have the same problem grease only as no drain bungs. Every time I have drained oil from my old 90 it had a small amount of water in so given that the same seal and ball is used I see no reason why the new ones won't leak as well. The other thing with oil is you get early warning of a leak, with grease the water will get in long before the grease gets out, bang, expensive new swivel. So I run grease but am not happy with it. I guess with the appropriate kit you could put in drain and level bungs but to be honest it falls into the "better things to do with my weekend like sitting in my armchair" category

I did up a set of old ones got somebody to bead blast them and treat them with alum primer (favour - free!) sprayed with LR grey primer sprayed with several coats of silver Holts colourmix aerosol then with some "wheel lacquer" it lasted very well, I sold them after a couple of years and last time I saw them they still looked fine the lacquer is probably the important bit this stuff was sprayed in a room at about 30 deg C and still took 24 hours to dry properly but was awesomely tough!

The "74% of all LRs built since 1948 are still on the road" thing is a bit blx as an argument because when you look at production figures the vast majority in terms of numbers have been built in the last 20 odd years - something like 80% IIRC.

That is a very silly price indeed! Well done

So I won't get any sympathy by moaning about diesel having gone up to 41p a litre here then

Yes but somebody cancelled summer this year (well most of it anyway) Global warming my A^%e

Oh stop grumbling well that was what the Beeb were saying on the telly here. If their internet 5 day UK forecasts are as hopeless as the 5 day ones they do for us you might still be OK

Oh come on it has to be Orange

Apparently you lot are supposed to be getting 22*C on Sunday so I reckon it's T&& Sunday this year

I use 2 bits of thin metal (galv steel in my case) about half the thickness of a credit card and measuring about 2.5 inches x 6 inches. Slide one in above and one in below and it comes out immediately. First time I took one out it took me an hour and a half, after devising the above method now about 5 seconds!!

No and no

I should think so, though apart from the bulbs the clocks are usually pretty reliable. Visit a breakers yard maybe? I don't have it handy but I have a feeling the clocks are stupidly expensive...

I have a tank guard on mine, nice alewminnnnium one that came from Bearmach at a reasonable price, but then my tank is at the back on the new 90, where one is somewhat more likely to smite it on a rock. Also the tank is plastic, which is carp for most reasons but one good point is that it ain't going to rust through

Neither can I Les but it is the way most things are going these days. I don't think you will find grease nipples on most propshafts and things these days. "Sealed for life" usually means "Sealed for a shorter life...". Having said that some "sealed for life" items (Discovery 2 or Freelander wheel bearings for example) seem to last much better than any of the old ones that could be periodically serviced so I don't know really!

Hard to say, much of the wear and tear depends on the quality of the connection between the seat and the steering wheel... a lousy driver does so much damage to a LR, IMHO... I wouldn't go for anything over 100k personally, but many will disagree with that. If you reckon you can get one with 70k for £3200 I'd be aiming at that sort of level I think. Bear in mind also that the engine gets thrashed a lot harder with an auto -- though the flip side is that the rest of the drivetrain gets an easier time if it is used by a lousy driver. A well driven manual would be my choice, look for one with minimum backlash in the transmission, usually a badly driven one loosens up quite a lot, same is true of Defenders, the "bang it through the gate and drop the clutch style of gearchange merchants" usually leave some clear signs by that mileage!

See my post in A&M Les...

I'm sure you are about to get moderated but I thought that was brilliant

The D2 props fail like this a lot, we have replaced several at work, though my own one is still hanging in there. Due to the stupidly high cost of a new one (£450 or something silly ) a bit of experimentation meant we found that an ordinary 300Tdi Defender 110 one will fit, if you change the t/box flange as well, and this is much cheaper! No sign of any driveline vibrations at our road speeds with this mod, not sure what it would be like on a motorway though. IIRC you can get replacement double joint UJs, it is the jointy bit between the two UJs at the double end that packed up as it cannot be lubricated.

Interesting No idea why people mess around with soldering bulbs in, you can buy the correct bulb as a Genuine Part for a few quid, the number is BAU5311L. There is apparently a Halfords one available as well, Halfords 509T: Exterior/Interior Bulb 12V/1.2W. Price £1.59 See this post in LRA tech archive