BogMonster

Tut, Paul Wightman did a much better one that that with Piglet, he was halfway up the tree Lifting one end of a 90 off the ground should only require about 2000-2500lb pull. I keep meaning to try hooking the MM on to the endless chain lift at work and lift the front wheels off the ground just for the hell of it! It should be relatively painless with a 6hp motor, after all the standard Warn one is only 2.1hp or something so the gearing (and the 8000lb pull) will presumably be designed for that motor...? It would be interesting to test that outfit as you have to destruction, firstly to see what would break first with the XP motor fitted and secondly to see what the ultimate line pull would be at the point of failure - I suspect a lot more than the 8000lb the winch was originally rated at. Good photo though! I also did something silly the other day, I was trying to shift a wooden pontoon for my new boat into position but it was hooked up on a big rock and the tide was a bit low. This is a bit of wood measuring about 3 feet x 3 feet x 25 feet, completely waterlogged.... prob weighed a fair bit! The 90 was up on the jetty and I was operating the winch with the remote while somebody else stood hard on the brakes and the front wheels against the concrete lip of the jetty. I definitely had full compression on the front suspension (could see that) and I wasn't entirely sure one of the back wheels wasn't floating a bit, though I couldn't see it from where I was standing

Tony and I usually disagree on the subject of winches but what he said ^^^ I knew somebody who had a Warn X6000 (or M6000? can't remember) a few years ago and blew it up winching a vehicle ON road... it had broken down on a slippery hill and couldn't be towed up (too slippery). It died horribly producing a smell which was somewhere between a house fire and a woman driver trying to do a hill start in 3rd gear with a 3.5 ton trailer on the back Would be a waste of money IMHO, what you want is 8000lb minimum, bear in mind that most electric winches will not pull the rated load for very long so you need to start with something that is over-rated to start with. Also do not underestimate the amount of suction you can get in certain conditions - one figure I have seen suggests that the force required to move a vehicle bogged to the hubs is actually 3x the vehicle weight! so a 6000lb winch would just about move a Suzuki SJ in that situation....

On my old Discovery the plating on the bearing surface started to break up, no water ingress or anything, just started to rumble and the grease was a bit gritty so I changed it.

Not in my lifetime

Yeah I heard about that on the news this morning, a lot of history with the Sea Harrier round these parts of course. I don't know when I last saw one in flight though, as fas as I recall all the Sea Harriers left when the carriers went, and the GR3s took over air defence, then the Phantoms came along once the runway was lengthened, the two types flew together here for a while, then the GR3's left, Phantoms were scrapped, we now have Tornado F3's and I guess their days are numbered too. I must be getting old - they seem to be scrapping all sorts of things that I remember. The Fearless was junked a while back, and the old cross-channel ferry "Norland", that brought me home a month after the liberation (we got kicked out) was scrapped a while back too... Wessexes have long gone, Scouts as well I think, "hitched a lift" in both of those as a 10 year old! Like I said I must be getting old....

Me too, same one on my last 2 90's, fended off a number of rocks with no bother and still there

I have got a QT guard on the back but I have to say I didn't think it looked all that strong and there seem to have been lots of people bugger them up.

Oxted Trimming Co ones are brilliant, I have them in mine, made from original cloth and an exact fit (look just like the original seats) but they are also ££££££££££££££££ about £100 for the front pair IIRC and that was four years ago.

Do I detect a slight contradiction in those two statements....

Piece of string job.... (as in "how long is a" ) If all goes well maybe an hour or two. If you have to resort to hammers, grinders, oxy acetylene, etc etc, could be rather longer....

"Roving reporter Dale is stopped by a sentry while investigating allegations of growth hormones being secretly tested in Antarctica"

The end result of letting a 5 year old loose with a pair of tin snips? It looks like a tank guard that would fit the back of my RIB, except that the tank is under the seat on a RIB....

Depends. If it is really bad then the bearing race can be welded on to the stub axle in which case can be a B&&&&& to get off! Otherwise it is easy enough (in theory!). You don't say front or rear but for rear (which seem to go more often) jack up vehicle remove wheel remove 5 drive member bolts withdraw halfshaft remove brake caliper bolts & tie caliper out of the way remove bearing retaining nuts & lockwashers remove hub/disc & outer bearing remove bearing/race from stub axle tap out bearing race from hub x 2 tap in new bearing race to hub x 2 to quote Mr Haynes "refitting is the reverse of removal" Of course there is usually some hammering and swearing which the book fails to mention and also use of hacksaw/grinder/several hammers/oxyacetylene is entirely possible!!! It is wise to fit a new hub seal and you may even need drive member etc depending on what state that is in (seal track may be worn/grooved damaging seal and letting water into bearings which caused original failure). Minimum parts required will be hub seal, drive member gasket, w/brg kit and lock washers. Maximum parts reqd may include hub, stub axle, brake disc.... Worth re-greasing them all periodically as well - every 2 years or so and fit new hub seals - can prevent more ££££. However if it is bad enough that you can hear it, change it very soon, you really don't want to have one lock up on the road it makes life suddenly get very interesting indeed. And for every other car within 400 yards at the time, add 1kg of fear to your underpants

kind of "purring" like a lion gargling gravel then.... Many 300s here seem to be pretty well worn by 100,000 but there are a lot more short runs, hills, blah blah. Regular maintenance is far more important than mileage, I have seen a regularly maintained engine with 80k on that still had the hone marks in the bores. As Turbot mentioned, the most common cause of failure is something else, I would say coolant loss and terminal overheating has been the most common I have seen. One of ours at work was seized up by some muppet a couple of weeks ago, as simple as the oil cooler union coming loose, lost all oil, bang. The basic engine architecture is pretty solid and given fresh oil every so often, and a good connection between the seat and the steering wheel, usually lasts very well.

Musta decided the rest wasn't worth nicking...

2.5 P Defender 90s are 1.4:1, at least both ours were. 2.5P 110s were 1.6:1 which was better with that engine IMHO. I think some of the V8 90s may have been 1.2:1 too?

Continuing on the ScrapIron theme why not stuff it up Colin's **** and then knock the tap off with a hammer? That way you will be able to achieve several of the above ideas with one event

of six mutant vegetables (This is turning into another Once Upon a Time thread )

I don't think this is me Typing in BogMonster is slightly more worrying

That thread is just priceless takes a while to read though!!! Bos - yeah that had to be one of the highlights, I PMSL when I read that one

Thanks both of you, after thinking a little longer this afternoon we decided to go with a new one anyway - it ain't my money I'm spending

Posting this here as the Freelander forum is a bit quiet... and I need a quick answer. Any recommendations for where to buy a recon injector pump (outright purchase not exchange) for an L series diesel Freelander? New one is £lots, thought maybe an exchange one would be cheaper. But I don't want a sh&te one, its for one of our hire vehicles, and all the time it is off the road it is losing money so if it needs to be new to ensure 100% reliability (or as close as you can get with LR ) then I'd rather we paid the extra... Is there an "Ashcrofts injector pumps"? not really aware of any "big names" in this line of business?? Gurgle reveals no great secrets. ta Stephen

Squish

I know, I know ... I just laughed out loud when I read it, in the same way I did when somebody we know said many years ago that he was going to build a concrete boat.... (which is also entirely feasible but the idea seems bizarre when you first think of it!) I had an absolutely brilliant afternoon but I'll tell you what, anybody with a V8 moaning about fuel consumption ... you ain't seen nuthin until you try a 2 stroke outboard, you can see the gauge going down

The knack is to make sure you don't have your fingers anywhere painful when you let the spanner go to put tension back on