sean f

I will let others discuss the legality of that particular motor. At that price it looks to be a good deal for any one wanting to build something similar just for the parts. It would probable be worth more broken up and all the bits sold seperately. Never liked the idea of portal axles on a Land Rover but a set of converted axles has to be worth quite a bit on there own.

If you spray it with a bit of WD40 or something similar then wiggle the key about as you pull it out then it will normally release, do this a few time should free it up.

Rights of way is a complicated issue some of the most knowledgeable people are unfortunately the bobblies. Things have changed since the NERC bill and I am not totally up today on how these actually work but: Many historical rights where not recorded or recorded at the wrong status i.e. footpath not bridlepath or byway, it was (is?) possible to challenge the council and get a right of way officially recorded, once this was done a land owner could not legally block or obstruct the right of way. Evidence that people had been using it for a period of time freely with out challenge was required to make the claim, the opposite could also be done a land owner could ask for a right of way to be extinguished due to it serveing no purpose and not having been used for a period of time. I can't remember the period of time required but it is at least 10's of years and maybe 100's. The classic case is if a land owner freely allows people to walk down the side of a river for instance with no restrictions or fee then after long enough period people can claim it as a legal right of which prevent a future land owner closing it or charging for access. The RA have been active over the years doing this for footpaths. The same process is used for vehicle access, byways, but it becomes more difficult to prove free UNCHALLENGED use.. This is the reason some toll roads are free most of the year but on one day a year either charge a toll or close, the land owner is exerting there authority and closing free use, provided this is documented the route will not become a legal right of way. This would mean the land owner could exclude any one he didn't like or close the route entirely as he chose, there are also planning issues involved where not having a right of way would make potential future developement easier. One aspect of the NERC bill was to clear this up, unfortunately they generally did it by down grading a right of way unless clear evidence suggested other wise.

I liked the letter in one of the motor home magazines once about the same topic. Some one had heard noises out side whilst parked up but not though to much of it. In the morning he found they had levered the filler cover off and tried to syphon the diesel out. He found a hose and a puddle of vomit. They had got the wrong tank and tried to syphon the septic tank!. Just home they got a good mouth full!.

If you want a good laugh have a look at the roll cage mounts on a tray back being written about in this month LRM page 98.

Keep in mind that anything like this if it is going to be used on the road will definately need a SVA and end up on Q plates. It is worth reading the new SVA manual (links elsewhere), it should be a big problem if you build with the regulations in mind. It is this sort of coversion where the SVA is a seriously good idea, if its done right there is no problem but the potential for a bodgy job being dangerous to every one is huge. If it is only every going to be used on private land then quality is down to you and any one stood in the same area!.

Be carefull if you use steel BB's as if you get any moisture in the tyre they will become a solid lump of rust over time and are likely to make things worse. I used the Dynabeads and found they did work and make things better but not perfect. Beads will only provide a "static" balance, not a "dynamic" balance. So the tyre would theoretically balance evenly on a point in it centre when level but may not balance side to side. As far as I am aware this is like placing all the traditional balance weights on one side of the rim rather than balancing them on both sides. I am sure some one who understands wheel balancing can give a better explanation than me but that was how it was explained to me.

Not sure about the legal side but salt water and sand must be just about the worst combination possible for the life of a vehicle. I wouldn't go any where near a vehicle which had been driven in the sea. As Rob said even launching boats will rot the back end of the vehicle off in time unless it is very carefully cleaned, remember to clean the inside of the chassis as well as they often rot from the inside out.

Love there logic of keeping a bit of the old bulkhead to retain the origional tax except status!. So if I weld a bit of a series 1 bulkhead to my P38 it becomes tax exempt?. Notice they are trying to sell for export, is there perhaps a bit of a legal issue with putting them in the road over here. For that matter exporting a vehicle with blatantly wrong documents could land you in al sorts of problems. I have heard that the Dutch and Norwegian customs in particulary are fussy of tax ratings / vehicle i/d's etc (probable to make sure they get there correct import duties).

Unfortunately what I think he was getting at was that the caliper brackets are part of the axle casing on most axles (possible not on salsburys??)

You say you have removed the A frame ball joint nut but have you actually split the ball joint off the axle?. They are like an overgrown track rod end, you are unlikely to get a ball joint splitter big enought to work. A sharp blow with a BIG hammer on the saddle on the axle should free it but they are often very tight and access can be an issue, I normally use a 9lb sledge hammer nothing else usually does the job. The other way is to remove the two bolts holding the ball joint onto the two arms and drop the lot with the ball joint still on the axle then get it free once it is off the vehicle as you can get a much better swing at it then.

Just checked there site and they don't even list HP24 box any more??. If you go to the HP22 box and read the fitting instructions towards the bottom there is a list of depths along with now to find the correct box number.

TC bellhousing measurement vary depending on the particular HP24 box you have. Ashcroft have a helpfully list on there site. I just did a box in a P38 and there measurement was spot on.

I have the correct taps LH and RH if you want to borrow them. Not far from you, Shrek knows where I am. If there is much damage though a new bar would be a good idea just to be safe due to the serious consiquences if it fails.

If you download and read the ARC and MSA spec sheets for roll cages pinned in the Tech section you won't go to far wrong. They have good diagrams of how to make cages mounts and what specification of material to use. People have made changes to them on individual cages as there spec is really for competition level cages so you may not want to go that far if all you intend is a bit of extra protection for off roading, but I think the advice should always be if in doubt make it stronger.

Old cheap, G clamp style valve compressor works well, if not a G clamp and a bit of tube with a slot in it amounts to the same thing.

I have one from JL industrial, its made by Chester and has worked fine making my cage. There current list price is £63.50 so a lot cheaper than those you listed, probable not the strongest construction but its stood up to a fair amount of abuse. There web site is www.mscjlindustrial.co.uk and it is on page 1561 of there cataloge, always had good fast service from them so far as well, they are geared up to sell to machine shops and so far have always delivered with in a couple of days. Worth having a look through there special offers and sales fliers (available as pdf's on there site) as they often have the notcher reduced.

Simple as yes it should, but it should be basic as everything is factory standard so SHOULD pass. You would also need to check if you could keep the reg or need a Q plate, you can replace a chassis with a NEW chassis of the same spec (galvanising is just a coating so doesn't effect the spec. I can remember the points system but you should be OK provided the rest is origional parts.

"There has been no legal recourse because, despite the unsuitability of the byway, the national speed limit applies." This is rubbish for a start, there is every legal recourse, driving to fast for the conditions which apply at the time is called dangerous driving and is currently an offence. You do not have to be braking the speed limit to be driving dangerously. This can and has been proven in court although normally when driving in narrow residential roads with cars parked on both sides for instance. The problem is to prove dangerous driving requires some one (probable a policeman although not neccisarily) to see it, get vehicle detail, and be prepared to testifiy in court. Speed cameras are cheaper or am I getting cynical.

Even if they do pay out it still amounts to fraud which is a criminal offence in it self. The insurance company may decide to pay out then prosecute you for full costs, (including all there legal fees) afterward. Whether they decide to do this would depend on the amount of the pay out, there assment of whether they could win and of cause if you had any money to pay if they did win. If you live in a rented house, have no savings, no job and no other assets they probable wouldn't both as they would never even get there legal costs back. KNOWINGLY makeing a false declaration would amount to a criminal offence, if they decided the modification was minor and you may not have actually known it was a modification (are the alloy wheels standard for that model or not?) they are likely to be easy on you, if it is more obvious particularly if they consider it contributed to the accident they are likely to be less understanding. Also in some (not neccisarily the vehicle which started this thread) cases where the vehicle is not what it says then they can declare that you were not driving the vehicle they insured. In the example above the insurance company have insured a moped, if you were driving a Hayabusa they haven't covered that even if it has the number plate from moped stuck on so you have no insurance and they can refuse any pay out. This would particularly apply to vehicles which are so highly modified that little of the origional exists or blatantly on false numbers plates and registration (tax exempt series 2 with 90 chassis, axles, engine, body work and gearbox!).

You need to go and have a think about this!. An open diff will BALANCE the torque so the same torque is applied to each wheel (remember torque not power), with a full open diff system if one wheel lifts it will not have any torque so no torque will be applied to the other wheels either, hence that one wheel will spin but get you no where. A lot of breakages are likely to be when that one wheel suddenly does get traction and there is a high shock loading on the transmition due to the inertia of the spinning wheel suddenly slowing down. With diffs locked the same RPM is applied to each wheel regardless of the torque so when one wheel spins in the air the other continues to rotate at the same speed. This can mean 100% of the POWER is going through that one wheel with traction which can cause overloading and breakage.

You will need at least the bellhousing from a S2 (fitting the whole box may be easier). The stud pattern on the series one box is wrong to fit a 2.25 engine. No need to move the box at all so props won't need to be touched. You will also need one of the engine mounts off the orgional S1 engine, I think it is the drivers side, bolt this to the engine and it should all fit straight on the origional chassis mounts, if you don't have one it should be easy enough to make one up. A S2 exhaust will also bolt straight on and fit with no problem (well it did on mine). I modified the front panel and fitted a later radiator so all the hose connected fine. The only real problem I found was the engine sits quite high (or the bonnet is lower) and the elbow on the air intake to the carb pressed on the bonnet, a simple bit of modification soon fixed that.

The vehicle on the OEC stand had an early P&P roll cage fitted with some modifications to take a full roof rack and tent. They have recently just fitted another to a disco commercial. The cages look very good but are not quick or easy to fit, often need a bit of fetling due to the not very exact Land Rover tolerances. Give Anton at OEC a call and he will be able to give you a price for supply and fitting, or just go direct to P&P although I am not sure if they do a fitting service

Normally worth changing the master and slave cylinders at the same time, often when one goes the other seems to go soon after. Doing it all in one go means you only have to bleed it once and the cylinders aren't to expencive.

Check to make sure they are round as well, quality was often a bit of an issue with some of the straight forward supplies stuff (he is no longer trading). Also before fitting the tyre if the wheels have never been used before check the welds for any signs of pin prick holes which will cause leaks, much easier to fix now than after the tyre is fitted. Other than that there is other threads on here about using sealant etc, may be worth a search.