Steve H

I have the exact same inflator. I fitted a 1/4" male Quick Release fitting with a female thread to it which then goes into a 1/4" female QR fitting on the end of my hose. The other end of the hose has a 1/4" male QR fitting which plugs into the 1/4" female QR fitting on the compressor. This is a totally standard setup for industry & DIYers alike. Steve.

Heres something to make you weep. Roll over Steve.

What he said, I'm still between Land Rovers mainly cause my temp runner Isuzu Bighorn (trooper) is so damned easy to live with. I think if it did its engine in (3.1) I would swap in a 2.8, other than that it does everything we need it to with total reliabilty. As long as oil changes have been regular & all fluids topped up when necessary, they'll go twice that distance easily. Totally lacking in charisma but I have turned my back on a couple of Discos cause this thing is hard to refuse. When I can run to a play car rather than an essential family transport, I'll get another Landie then. Steve

Bjorn, I wondering if you machine is an ex Norwegian military Land Rover & if so could this have been a mod the military did? Maybe worth making some enquiries in that direction. Steve

Other than the obvious ring in pics from Car Stuck girls, most of these come from THIS website Steve

Still too darned small Ralph, I sat in a 2008 Defender at a local show over this last weekend & they're still rather limited for full sized people in the back. ( I'm rugby lock forward style, size 12 shoes). No foot room, bu99er all head & shoulder room, not much good with a tribe of boys who all look like outstretching me. Steve

Not sure if you're talking L or SWB here but the standard brakes brought up to scratch can be quite efficient & well up to most use. Unless your neighbour is doing a lot of heavy towing or mudplugging I'd tend to go this way. I you read the threads that deal with fitting discs, you'll quickly realise how difficult it is, nice idea & all though. If there isn't one fitted, a servo, either direct or remote helps a heap. As has already been stated, the 11" front brakes from later 109s is a good start, you'll want a bigger master to shift the extra fluid they take, I believe its also recommended to fit the front wheel cylinders to the rears on a SWB to get best advantage. Steve

Its the 3.0 engine, 98 on Troopers, not the 3.1 that has a tendency to grenade. The 3.1 is an indirect injection version of the 2.8, not as efficient but quieter. I reckon a 2.8 with gear cam drive would be the ultimate expedition engine with that economy, but having said that, the cam belts are easy to change & don't f**k up like LR ones do (did?) Steve

A lot of Jap 10mm in automotive apps is 10mm metric fine which is 1,25mm screw pitch, as oppsed to 1.50mm pitch for 10mm coarse. To compilcate things, I've also come across 10x1mm pitch in Jap vehicles,could be this perhaps, fine someodne with a thread gauge to try the studs for you. Steve.

Dumb question time, does that rating of 1650 kg for the Disco rims mean each wheel is rated to carry 1650 kg or each axle is rated to carry 1650 kg or something else entirely? Steve

ltwt1981, sorry for a heap of questions, Did we get a write up of yours on here? link? what Toyota discs did you use? Got any pics or other info about how you did it failing a link, especially the caliper bracket? Thanks. Steve.

Awesome writeup Grem, definitely the best I've ever seen on this topic. Many thanks for presenting it thus, Steve.

Just stands to reason, doesn't it ??? Steve

From memory of the article that Ralph has mentioned in LRO it said these guys overcame the problem of fitting coiler axles to leaf springs by using TD5 hubs or steering arms or something, I always thought 90s were 90s were 90s in this respect. Can anyone shed light on what this could mean? Interesting too about the wings, something else I will need to measure up b4 I buy any more bits for my project. Steve.

Yeah, but if you hold it in your left hand, the numbers are upside down, I get this at work all the time & in a moving "online" situation, it doesn't help. A handed tape would be nice. Steve

Definitely a Nissan, it is identical to the pic of a FD35 fitted to a RR in an article I found in an early LRO, Feb '93 for fellow anoraks . While the RR had a FD35T the shape of the rocker cover, injector position & thermostat housing confirm its Nissan ID, not sure if any of this excludes the ED33 which was an indirect injected engine or the FD 33 which was the direct injected version, both 3.3 litres as against the 3.5 of the FD35. HTH Steve.

What Bill said :lol: That looks like a nice bit of machining, a credit to you, well done. Steve.

Hi Bigblue, is that a 90/110 windscreen surround on your mates machine & if so did he mod defender windscreen brackets or use the SII ones ? Sorry for the hijack not too bad hope Steve

Can't say I like the look of the Massif, some of the Iveco trucks are a bit visually challenged too, especially the normal control ones we see out here. Have to say though that I always liked the look of the Santana, more so the later ones with the simpler bumpers & vertical tail lights. Can't say about the interior, we don't get them in NZ. The design on the Massif is actually a stylised Maori tattoo, Iveco were major sponsors of the All Blacks world cup campaign, not that it did them much good. Steve

I've got one of these ones Eclipse Spiralux As the first reply said, they're a bit of a grunt with 8mm inserts, you wouldn't want to be doing too many but OK with the others sizes (4,5,6 & 8mm all included in the kit) Quite a bit cheaper than the Masterfix tool if you've not too many to do. Steve.

While admitting to thinking it was a bit OTT, I tend toward the understated look myself, its a bl00dy sight better than the Land Rover I don't currently have , & I thought that it looked like something I could run away from home in & drive around the world to meet some of you lot , but if you're likely to be horrid to me I'd just use it to drive down to the supermarket & look cool. Steve

It sounds as though they've got it about right, standard LR series & 5.5" 90 & 110 rims do not have the ridge around them that is supposed to keep a tyre out against the rim flange in case of sudden deflation, so they should by rights not be run tubeless. Many people do as did I at one point & have no hassles but it could be a factor in case of a prang. Not sure what rims you have but if you have to run tubes in tubeless tyres, make sure there are no labels/tags inside the tyre to chaff the tube, & I have seen it mentioned that a really good quality tube like Michelin resist chaffing better. Long term though your best solution is properly matched rims & tyres. If you have tubeless rims then you can run them off road no worries unless you drop your pressures too much in search of better traction but thats a whole 'nuther debate as to what equates to too much & I don't have enough experience with this to venture an opinion. Steve.

You say they are tubed, are they tube type tyres or tyres with tubes in? Sorry if that sounds daft but tubeless tyres with tubes in have a reputation for chafing the tubes inside them & causing punctures. Proper tubeless tyres are made smoother inside. Something to keep in mind depending on what you find when you get this latest one fixed. Steve.

Most tyre manufacturers websites list recommended max & min rim widths as well as the recommended ideal rim width. Google is your friend to find these. Steve

Nominally your 255 should have been about 33" & similarly the 265s about 32 " but there is a fair variation from nominal figures (ie according to industry standards) & what you actually get. It seems that very aggressive Muds can be quite a bit bigger than nominal sizes hence the only way you can be totally sure is to measure or have measured on a case by case basis the tyres you want to compare. Sorry, its about as good as I can offer. Someone else might be able to post some sizes, it would help to know what brand your 265s were. Steve.