paintman

This might be of help. http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual/contents.htm

And if you do decide to use Rocket don't leave it in your gun for long after the final coat!

www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/web33.pdf HSE/COSHH guidelines for those who use isocyanate materials properly in SMART repair. Link doesn't work so you'll have to do it yourself. I use Nexa AquabasePlus, but still have the older solvent based (note the base is not isocyanate) DuPont Centari system. As has already been said, as long as the tints are around the solvent based systems continue to be used, but as soon as one of the tints is no longer obtainable - and it will be the commonly used ones - then that particular system is scrap.

If you're not using = or likely to be using - anything waterbased then the Devilbiss you list should be fine. Most of the cars I do are metallics or pearlescents so I am using a waterbased colour coat (Nexa Aquabase) and then clearcoat (which is NOT waterbased) over it.

Brake pedal antislip http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual_330.htm

First gun you link says not suitable for waterbased, so that rules it out. Second lot (the HVLP751 with 1.4 setup) looks OK. They're Sealey guns so shop around for price on them, NT can be expensive. Is there a Machine Mart near you? There are some good priced ones on ebay, look at the 'Buy it now' heading. The Sealey guns S701G & HVLP741(not the 'Touch-up' or 'Detailing' ones as they are for spot repair use) look like a SATA copy You will also need a regulator to attach to the bottom of the gun to adjust the air pressure at the gun (unless you already had one on the old gun) Don't forget that you will be drawing a lot of air with gun & mask so check out what their air requirements are & that your compressor is up to it or you will have to keep stopping to let the compressor catch up.

Change the switch. What oil are you using? Don't forget the V8 is ancient technology & running low viscosity oils & synthetic is not recommended.

Was an article in a Trade Mag a while ago by NGK which said that the fitting of multi terminal plugs in engines for which they are NOT original equipment is not recommended. Can't remember what the reason was.

Health & Safety advice is that for isocyanate products ONLY air-fed breathing masks are appropriate. And if you read the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheets) sheets for isocyanate car paints you should find the manufacturers say the same.

For a simplistic view of how it works http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential5.htm

Anything at http://www.green-oval.com ?

Lots of cowboys out there, both in & out of garages. The bad ones don't usually last long I'm pleased to say. A fair few disappeared with the change to waterbase & the non-compliant products went off the market. As I'm sure you are aware it is the owner/controller of the premises that the materials are used on that will get done by H&S, not the person using them. Always thought that a little strange.

If you would have had the permission of the owner of the property had they been aware of the circumstances to lend it then you cannot be convicted of Theft. For those that think otherwise Google 'Theft Act' using the UK search limit & check the definition. The offence is committed by the lads who took it. The next step is for it to be reported to the police as I think you've seen the last of that.

And don't fully tighten the outer row of head bolts. They cause the head to tip & are deleted altogether from the later V8's - as in no holes drilled in the heads or block. Just nip them up to fill the holes (some say throw them away!) Ah, I see I was beaten to it by a minute or so! ^^^^^^^

According to fault diagnosis chart: If you select 'D' and it drives forward the 'reverse gear interlock valve is seized' If you select '1' and there is no engine braking then there is a fault in 'Clutch brake 'D'' If it doesn't drive in 'D' then there are further checks. But as already suggested give Ashcroft a ring. The above is for the ZF & is from the manual for the Classic. You don't say what yours is.

Small to Medium Area Repair Technology. Bumper scuffs, wheel arch scrapes, chips, vandal scratches, alloy wheel scuffs, minor accident damage. Doesn't include full resprays or damage (other than small chips) to bonnet roof & boot which usually require the whole panel to be resprayed due to paint edge visibility issues. One of the better known ones is http://www.chipsaway.co.uk

I have a preference for the gravity feed guns, makes doing flat horixontal surfaces much easier with the pot above the gun rather than in the way below it. They also deliver at lower air pressure. As I do SMART repairs professionally I don't need the full size guns but they do need to be top quality. Currently have a SATA Minijet and 2 IWATA LPH80 guns. The SATA is occasionally used, the IWATAs are used daily & are set-up so that one is used for the basecoat (waterbased) and the other for the clearcoat. As already said, Devilbiss are excellent & have been around for a LONG time so spares are readily available. Just that new thay aren't cheap! SATA are also popular within the trade & again the spares are readily available. That said, the cheapies you can get from Machine Mart, Ebay etc are usually more than capable of doing the job. I've used several over the years & not really had any problems providing the fluid tips are the right size for the materials you are using and the air requirements are within what your compressor can deliver continuously. Usually down to personal preference & what feels comfortable in the hand when you use it. HVLP is the way to go as most of what comes out of the gun ends up on the panel rather than in a huge cloud with you in the middle.

The usual link http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/i...tml#suspension1

No problem! I confuse myself often enough

Isocyanate 2k car paint DOES NOT CONTAIN OR GIVE OFF CYANIDE. This is a popular and often quoted myth that has been doing the rounds since 2K came into use in the mid-70's. See page 8 of http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/web33.pdf Due to changes in EU legislation to do with Volatile Organic Compounds it was illegal to sell non-compliant auto refinishing paint in Europe from 1.1.2008 so the manufacturers no longer import it into Europe. Solid colours can be bought as 2k, you add the hardener to the paint, thin as required & spray. Usually 2 coats with a flash off period between. Metallics/pearls are applied as a colour coat (now waterbase) followed after proper coverage is achieved & the water has been flashed off by the use of hot air blown over the panel by the application of usually 2 coats of clear lacquer. The lacquer is 2k. Some one-pack lacquers are still available but these lack the durability of 2k. Whatever you are spraying you are strongly advised to wear appropriate respiratory protection. There are numerous paint suppliers on ebay & some do still appear to be supplying cellulose/acrylic solvent based materials. Whatever paint you buy it is important to get the Technical Data Sheets as these give you the info as to correct mixing, thinning, gun air pressure, gun fluid tip size and health & safety info. BTW I am not the Paint Man referred to in an earlier link. I do SMART repairs as a business.

Manual does give one symptom as 'intermittent drive & high pitched squealing noise'. Suggests problem is blocked filter or low fluid level.

A look through http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk site in the autobox section gives you the correct fitting heights for the TC. Measure from a straightedge laid across the bellhousing to any of the four lugs on top of the TC. Neead to be careful that it doesn't slide forward when refitting the box. And as said, if its not on right it splits the pump.

Transfer box hasn't jumped out of gear?

Usual link. http://www.rangerovers.net/fixindex.html Lots on air susp incl pics.

http://www.green-oval.com