paintman

Only cure for panels beyond the 'sand down fill & paint' stage is either a new panel or cutout & weld patch into the affected area.

What have you done so far to find and rectify any faults? Is the vehicle still showing codes as per your previous post? If it is then they will need clearing before the suspension will play again.

Have a look through http://www.rangerovers.net/fixindex.html Huge amounts of info on air suspension. Sounds like you may have a leak or a faulty sensor. As the ECU has registered it once you have sorted the problem you are going to need a reset.

According to their website, yes it does.

http://www.rangerovers.net/newrremedies.htm#waterfoot

Yes they do. I use them for old thinner & paint container disposal. http://www.safety-kleen.co.uk

I've just had a look on the Draper website & it says that some grease cartridges don't properly engage with the plunger. Could this be the problem? http://www.drapertools-online.com/products...ls/12681ins.pdf

If they are genuine part then go to the dealer as advised above. Otherwise go to your local tyrefitters. Ask them to remove them for you. They usually have the tool to do it. My eldest did this with his Peugeot. Cost him £5 to have all four locking nuts taken off. Take some proof of ID and proof of ownership of the vehicle with you as they may refuse to do it otherwise! Then go & buy yourself a set of new ones. Suggest you don't leave it too long as if you have a puncture (unless you are in the AA/RAC etc as they also carry the removers) you are going to be in a mess.

I suppose you could just change the filter then put the old fluid back in.

The old Torqueflyte 3-speed box did have user adjustable brake bands. The 4-speed ZF does not. As said, the Ashcroft site http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk shows many common problems. Whilst they also are undecided as to whether its a good idea, the first action with many autobox problems - after checking the fluid level is correct - is to change the fluid and filter. Blocked/partially blocked filter causes many problems. And if its playing up anyway you have little to lose.

If you have an arc welder the brazing attachment with the 2 carbon pencils works well. Just have to be careful about the pencils as they break easily!

Have a look at http://www.rangerovers.net/fixindex.html Lots of info on air suspension - and pics too!

Input shaft oil seal. Check the gearbox breathers are clear as if they aren't the box can pressurise which can force oil past the seals.

http://www.lro.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=22292 Quite a lot on LPG in the LRO LPG forum.

What system do you have? Single point or multipoint? If single point & there is a flow adjuster (often called a power valve) in the line between the vapouriser & mixer is this set up correctly? If fully open all the time you will just be wasting gas. I too get 160 to 190 on around 65ish litres depemding whether its town driving or motorway cruising.

And for those athletes with only a physical handicap?

If the post is on another forum that is nothing to do with this one then frankly I am amazed that it has been dragged here. As for the Tech post referred to I see no reason for not doing it. For exactly the same reasons that Haynes assume that their reader is not a trained mechanic - unlike the factory manuals which assume a certain degree of knowledge. Taking spanners to your own car for the first time is nerve racking enough even when you have photos of the whole procedure. This thread only reflects badly on all the combatants.

Just wonder if I'm missing something here? Asks for advice to fix a fault which is almost certainly the faulty Lambda sensor but won't replace it or fit the resistor as advised. Instead fiddles about with the injectors in the hope it will make the problem go away. And then throws a strop. Weird.

http://www.rangerovers.net/fixindex.html Lots on air suspension. Should keep you amused for a while!

And what is their advice?

You must replace the cam AND the followers as a set. One without the other will very quickly destroy the new item.

In which case I would give http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk a ring for a definitive answer.

From the LR handbook (this is for LT230 type transfer boxes NOT BW with viscous coupling) Towing the Range Rover (on four wheels) Set the main gearbox in neutral and set the transfer box in neutral with differential unlocked. Set the ignition/steering lock in position 'I', to release the steering lock. Secure towing attachment to the vehicle. Release the handbrake. It also states that if the vehicle is towed with one axle suspended the propshaft of the trailed axle must be removed.

http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/i...tml#suspension1

Try Loctite 'Freeze and release' Much better than WD for this type of problem.