paintman

Enter 'buying a car privately' into a search engine. Much info will come up, including the directgov site. All say pretty much the same thing & that is that in a private sale the vehicle must be as described at the time of sale. If the vehicle was OK when you bought it you would need to prove that the seller was aware of the head repair. Even then, they are likely to say that yes, I had a repair done and the car has been fine since. As already suggested, consult a solicitor or Citizens Advice, but it sounds like you may be stuck with it.

RAC for me too. Have always been prompt to attend. Wife & both sons covered under my membership. Last two uses were eldest son after non fault RTA on Aston Expressway. Vehicle extensively damaged. RAC attended & low loader recovered to Leicester. RAC recovered cost from other party & reinstated the 'life' The other one was youngest son who decided not to bother going round a bend & finished with car on side in field. Car totalled. RAC attended the site the following AM by appointment, pulled car out of field & delivered it to local breakers at my request. Difficult recovery as car couldn't go back the way it had gone into the field. Very impressive.

Metal fume fever http://www.twi.co.uk/content/jk30.html

Yes.

What exactly was done to cure the liner problem? Bearing in mind that the only cure is a replacement block or engine. Is it throwing water out? Is it losing water? As you have only had it back a couple of days after major repair then take it back, as they clearly haven't fixed it.

And I would suggest a very good look at the other brake pipes on the vehicle whilst you are at it. If one has corroded to that extent you can bet the others may not be far behind.

The regs are quite clear. And the answer is that you cannot tow a car other than for recovery to a safe place using a dolly or A-frame. The one exception to this - by virtue of its weight - would appear to be the French made AIXAM car. Anything over 750kgs (including the weight of the trailer) must be braked. And no dollies or A-frames comply. So you need a trailer. And for weights over 750kg the trailer must have brakes which act on its own wheels. http://www.ttas.co.uk/towsafe.cartransport.html

Manuals at http://www.green-oval.com

Nothing wrong with the car. Drive into an auto box is by fluid, not gear-to-gear enagagement & this is why putting it in gear & standing on the brakes is not working.

Have a look at this link to lro. The family have asked that speculation on the case be kept to a minimum. http://www.lro.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=19578

The self levelling unit ('centre shock') needs the car to be driven to make it work & level the car. They will settle if the car is stood. Manuals at http://www.green-oval.com which tell you how to test the self-leveller.

Over the chassis is where they usually go. And once they go there you will find much of the rest is also on its way out. Don't try bodging it, it is unlikely to work - as you are finding - & a fuel leak is dangerous & an MoT fail. I replaced both of mine when one started leaking but used copper brake piping (buy a roll of it, IIRC 1/4" but check the diameter of the old ones on your car as its several years since I did it) If you take care in removing the old ones then you can use them as a guide to bending the replacement to the same shape. Don't confuse the feed & return when fitting. If the plastic clips on the chassis break then use long cable ties in a figure of 8 round the pipes & chassis to secure them on top of the chassis rail.

Was it all OK before the engine removal?

With all air tools you need to consider the free air delivery of the compressor. Your 12cfm gun needs a continuous 12cfm AND probably around 90psi to run continuously. That means a compressor that can deliver BOTH as a minimum. And that's a BIG compressor. With a smaller compressor you will have to keep stopping as the tank pressure drops & you have to wait for it to refill. You will then have a short period of tool usage until you have to let the tank refill again. Very frustrating. I use a 2hp compressor with 50lt tank professionally for SMART repairs. Fine for the small HVLP guns I use. It will operate the impact wrench I have, but I have to keep letting it refill.

Have a look in http://www.rangerovers.net/newwrremedies.htm#alarm and the links that go from that section.

Have a look in the FAQ section of http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk Sounds like time for fluid & filter change!

File a bit off each side of the rivet gun head - I did when I did mine - to allow it to get into the channel.

I assume this is an auto? If so, did you ensure that the Torque Converter was correctly fitted to the gearbox before offering it all up? This is checked by measuring from a straight edge across the bellhousing to any of the four bosses on the front of the TC. On the RRC with 4speed ZF - similar to the box you have - this is usually 50mm. If this is not set it means the cutouts on the gearbox side of the TC has not engaged with the gearbox oil pump & when you bolt the box up to the engine it will split this pump. No pump=no pressure=no drive. Requires gearbox or engine removal & replacement of the pump. TC MUST be fitted to the gearbox and not to the engine when refitting. Also need to be careful when refitting that the TC doesn't slide forward. You will find more on http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk who also give the correct distance for your gearbox number. I am assuming that you have bolted the flex plate to the tc after the box was refitted - I have known someone to forget to do that!

Mole grips/vise grips. Same thing. You could always order parts from Uk, but what are the shipping charges going to be & would you have to pay any sort of import duty at your end? As for setting off without the clutch, the idea is that with engine off you engage 1st then start the engine. Changing up & down is then done by matching engine speed to gearbox speed. Once mastered can be done without much difficulty. To stop, turn the engine off as you come almost to a stop. BUT, and it is a big BUT you lose servo assistance to the brakes when the engine is off.

http://www.machinebuilding.net/p/p1356.htm does KK1 for £1 if you buy £1800 worth of fittings & the KK2 for £1 if you buy £2800 worth.

http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/may2003/techtotech.htm I favour the 'weld a washer & nut to it' approach. But then I do have a mig to hand! The cheapie extractors have all the shear strength of a soft carrot & tend to break off in the thing you are trying to extract.

If it wasn't off centre before they did the work go back to the garage and get them to put it right.

Same thing on my RRC. New rad cured it.

A 50/50 mix of NEW engine oil and grease was recommended to me many years ago by an MoT tester. Works too. But you do get a bit messy working underneath!

http://cbsonline.co.uk/butyl-sealer-strip-butyl-1564-p.asp