paintman

They might be missing because somebody else has done the job before & found them - like the rest of us - to be a real PITA You might find a gentle chamfering of the edge of the ring will help.

Which model Range Rover?

Have a look at http://www.carelect.demon.co.uk/rrind.html

You will find pictures of items at http://www.famousfour.co.uk/new_parts/index.php Look in the relevant vehicle section. I've had a quick look & all the draglinks & complete track rods look straight, so unless I'm missing something that could be your problem.

Always worth considering. My new one from the place in the link was £119 delivered. Cheapest quote - and I am trade - from the local reconditioners to recore mine was £175 plus VAT.

Removal of an anti-roll bar from an axle on which it is a standard fitment is an MoT failure. It could also cause problems with a vehicle examination and your insurers in the event of an accident. http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual_240.htm and scroll down for the relevant part

What did the instructions say? And what have Machine Mart advised you to do?

As said , there are usually several different shades of any vehicle colour depending on which paint batch was in use in the factory when the vehicle was built. As an example, Ford Diamond White in DuPont Centari has 9 shades that I know of. Yes, you can get paint eyematched - if your local motor factor offers the service - again extra time extra cost. Insurance companies will usually only pay the absolute minimum they can so they will only authorise the damaged panels to be repaired/refinished. Which is one of the reasons why bodyshops are closing - several in my area have gone bust. They can't make it pay. So machine polishing the whole of the vehicle is a non starter as the garage would have to pay for that to be done. If you paint a whole panel, you usually need to blend the colour into the adjacent panel & then lacquer the lot. Again, the insurance companies won't authorise or pay for this so the bodyshops won't do it. Silvers & pale metallics are pigs for slight variations & the insurance issue is why you often see them with slight panel mismatches. I have just checked three paint sites: Alaska White is a new 2008 colour. No variant shades yet! Chawton is shown on one as two shades,on another as three and on the third as four. Alpine/Savarin is shown as one shade on one & two on both the other. That can also give problems if the insurers specify the materials to be used. But if the colour is not right, then it goes back. Notify your insurers of the problem & get them to sort the garage out. It might need a LOT of shouting & prodding of the insurers on your part.

Check out the above, plus the shock absorbers. If one or more are defective the handling will be strange. I would also consider having the vehicle checked to ensure there is no chassis damage (accident prior to your purchase?) & that everything is where it should be.

You could try kalimex K-Seal http://www.kalimex.co.uk But if its an old rad or a big leak then a new rad is the best solution Recently fitted one to mine £119 incl £10 delivery - very quick delivery & very well wrapped - from http://www.aaronradiator.co.uk Never tried a coolant clamp but it will be easier to drain it as there's lots in the rad.

Absolutely vital that the torque converter is correctly fitted to the gearbox and that it is not allowed to slip forward during installation. If it is not seated correctly then you COULD tighten bolts up & it will appear to go together OK. BUT you WILL have split the gearbox pump. And no pump=no drive=gearbox off again to put a new pump on. The correct settings are shown on the http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk site. Check to be sure. You measure from a straight edge across the bellhousing to the top of the four rectangular blocks on the front of the TC You will find it helps to make up two studs (buy a length of appropriately threaded bar from B&Q & cut a couple of bits off) which you screw into the back of the engine. Lift the box so the holes sit onto these then you can slide it all together without trying to do a balancing act.

No. Quite the opposite. Can seriously affect the water flow. Often a ploy by the unscrupulous to hide an overheating problem when selling a vehicle.

The engine/gearbox match you suggest is totally unsuitable. The valving of a diesel autobox is very different to that of the petrol & you would need to find a diesel box. Buy a diesel one, or if you are determined to do a petrol-to-diesel project - and you would need to be able to DIY as it will be more than the vehicle is worth to have it done professionally - then buy a diesel Discovery bodywork MoT failure & use it as a donor vehicle. Don't forget you will also have to cut the RR petrol engine chassis mounts off & replace them with the right ones for the diesel. If it is a fuel cost issue then I would LPG the V8. My own has been on LPG for around 7 years & costs less on fuel than a diesel variant would. Lots in the LPG message boards section of http://www.lro.com

What does it do? Fastens the turret that holds your shock absorber onto the vehicle. Snap with regularity & the bolt ring is often worth changing when you do the shocks. It is a ring with 4 studs on that sits on top of the spring, the studs stick up through the holes in the chassis spring mount & you then fit the turret over them. Torque figure (from RRC manual but common to all) is 13.5nM or 10lbft, so you have overdone it a teensy bit! http://www.mps4x4store.co.uk shows then in the Defender panels section as their part number LR534 for just over £5

Whilst they do not show part numbers, the koni application list on their website is quite clear that they do them for non air suspension RR and air suspension RR. The prices are different so it would also suggest that the answer is no. http://www.koni-shock-absorbers.co.uk

U-Pol Acid 8 etch primer in aerosol. Ebay or local Motor Factors. Not likely to find at DIY stores.

And Leicestershire Police have had an armoured Land Rover for over 14 years.

Does your transfer box lever move only backwards & forwards to select H-N-L or does it move sideways to engage difflock? (looks like a figure 8 on the knob) If it moves sideways to engage difflock then you don't have a viscous coupling. I know the vc is used in the RR Classic & the RR P38 with the Borg Warner transfer box & the Freelander has its own, but I thought the Discos all used the LT230 variant transfer box which doesn't have a vc.

Tried them to repair part of a rod holder (chromed brass) on my boat. Total waste of time. Got it brazed by the local engineering works.

Get the wheels & tyres checked off the vehicle to be sure they are not bent or damaged. Best way is to get a tyre dealer to spin them up on their machine & balance them at the same time.

Thoroughly sand/scrape the affected area to bright metal & IMMEDIATELY spray with etch primer. U-pol's ACID 8 in aerosol is fine. Then fill & paint as normal.

Try on the message boards section of http://www.lro.com/forum/

Sounds like a forthcoming ebay sale!

Mine says Petrol/Gas. No difference on road tax, but as its 22 years old I only pay the 'old car over 1600cc' rate.

Picked up my lb/in torque wrench off ebay. Less than £30 all in & its accurate.