GW8IZR

going to the trouble of doing this it might be worth looking into remote locking actuators as well in the same fitting, Anyway it is something I've planned for a while so time to get round tuit..

Yes I was thinking of tiging something like this to fit inside, I need to have a measure up first..

I like that setup, if you had to do it again would you consider putting the reinforcing plate inside? It looks like you have had to profile the key end a bit and maybe that would have given a bit more clearance. a small stainless washer bonded to the skin would finish the hole?

yes I thought so, I guess as it is now Jeremy996 can either leave it as is which is relatively secure or remove it if he needs the car but leaving it unprotected. I've been looking at ways of stopping a direct attack on the lock but still allowing use of the key ( which was a failing of my first strategy ) The protection has to be low profile or 'twould make driving harder :-) (edit) some way of restricting access that still allows the key inserted and turned which doesnt need much leverage iyswim

They may, we must learn and adapt. It is a two way thing, sharing attack methods helps us defend better

Good news! damage notwithstanding. Its given me an idea to improve things as well..

there is perhaps some hidden message in the number to call...

I've been in more police stn's than I care to remember and I always saw the same thing, local intelligence 'mug shots' on the walls with lists of known activities.. all the shots share a common theme.. laughing, grinning, pulling faces.... I asked a CID guy that I was working with what the score was, I said if I was being photographed I'd be ashamed .. the response.. they couldn't care less as they know they are almost fireproof....... unless they cross the line into serious stuff they just get a day in court which they wear as a badge of honour.

internal grills are great, my dog can just reach the glass with his nose and tongue making the glass translucent - might as well have frosted glass :-)

I'll not say what make they are but I have seen some (two) after-market swivel housings bend after a heavy landing, on both examples it was hard to see any damage until the ball was removed wherupon small cracks could be seen inside. On both of them the seals leaked a fair bit and the owner had filled with one shot grease. I have an early original 90 axle where the front wheels appear to have -ve camber and its not the axle tube - I suspect one or both swivels are damaged but just swapped the axle as I was refurbing a Discovery one anyway for expediency So I suspect 'bent balls' are reasonably common.

yes.. and the toxic effects are not always known by users, its worth being very careful when using brake cleaner near heat sources such as this and welding

air horn - disposable mig bottle and a 12v solenoid.. fill the trumpet with pepper - aim it at the drivers door!

Would this be as simple as measure MAP, RPM and throttle position, when the pedal is in a low demand position and engine near idle set the boost control to allow it to spin up easily, show some pedal and then just move actuator to give max boost - beyond maximum boost start to move the actuator back to maintain maximum. As said above that would be easy to code (I think) ? I looked at a 4cyl BMW turbo setup and whilst post EU4 they used an electric actuator before that the same setup just appears to use a vac boost actuator controlled by a vac switch giving none proportional on/off control. (edit) thinking about that it seems wrong as I cant see any method of progressively limiting boost such as a wastegate

Absolutely right, access is the key to success, if you can see the nooks, crannies and seams from lots of angles you can be sure you have worked whatever coating or oil into the vulnerable spots, the trick seems to be getting a thin oil (or good cavity seal) in there and then an overall coat - I treat that overall coat as a sacrificial layer that gets dirty and nasty, clean it all back as much as possible every year or so and re coat.. as long as the thin oil/wax is in the cracks keeping that lot protected. ( the LR is galvanised as well but my road cars get that treatment and they seem to last ok.) Struggling on your back with hand pumps is a nasty chore and we just miss important bits, i've been there done that and got the waxed overalls :-) My steamer is a big diesel Karcher thing, its also 'er brothers not mine :-) but anything loose will come off and it will shift some underseal, if it doesn't loosen or remove it I suppose the bond to the substrate is good and it may as well stay put. Last weekend I did the bottom of a neighbours 5 year old 110 - pretty much all the paint came off the rear cross. Thats a good thing of course as now its been painted properly! <edit> just a point, in days gone by we sprayed waste oil on everything, of course we now 'know' its a bad thing to do as it contains acid that rots the car.. funny that no one told the metro van that was done in the late eighties and gets a spray of the stuff every few years. It is still passing its test each year. Used on the fields and in yards containing cow **** it survives very well. :-)

I'm not sure whats considered hard work, takes maybe half an hour to steam it off - it certainly takes longer to dry than clean. In this context Isn't hydrophobic oil just a bastardisation of the term simply implying separation of water and oil?

I always used 3m cavity wax which I reckon was quite a bit better than Dinitrol, now I have to .. ahem! pay for it, I've used Dinitrol for this winters coating. I need to do the cavities in my estate car and thats going to get 3m as its almost certainly never been done before. I use a shutz gun which I decant whatever I'm using into re cycled stone chip cartridges and over the years I've made a number of lances of various shapes and spray patterns, at this time of the year the most important thing is making sure the car is dry, steam clean and let it air dry for ever. ( spray booth on max if you can) Its the wrong time of year to do DIY rustproofing of a permanent nature, Today I'd spray it with a wet oily wax based on cheapest cavity wax mixed with gear oil and get it warm and thin then in spring steam it off and do a proper job. A bit like the old story, if I was going to the town I wouldn't start from here! HTH

I've used Bilstein on all my coilers since about 1990 and I like the ride, they seem to last forever in my use. I put new ones on the back of the 90 when I rebuilt it three or four years ago and was disappointed that the rubber bushes failed within twelve months. I had some cheap blue bag bushes in the shed and used them as the MOT was due, they are still fitted and show no signs of wear.

I wouldn't be messing about, just ask paddocks when they intend delivering your new chassis and do they want to arrange collection of the damaged one or do they want you to dispose of it locally. They will just claim of the courier so just stand your ground as its not acceptable.

I wonder if you could fit the left hand switches on the right hand seat and VV - would that move the switches to a more accessible place?

er indoors was going to Tescos or Sainsburys or somewhere like that, I asked her if she would fetch some AAA batteries for the tv remote, I suggested she brought a 20 pack as they always come in handy... she brought 20 rechargeable Li-ion batteries and grumbled they were more expensive than she expected......

Make your compressor shed big enough to get in and do minor stuff on the compressor when it needs it.. also make it big enough so that you can put that lawn mower and sundry garden tools in it.. save clutter in the main workshop.

My 5Kw log burner is currently warming my entire house! I'm sat here watching GT and its 23.5 degrees in here

Yep, its certainly something to be mindful of Like a lot of things, it gets done and no one notices and all is well with the world. Sometimes it goes wrong and the world can fall apart. In the case of a log burner it only needs an awkward neighbour to moan about soot on her washing,..... is it sexist to say 'her' washing - probably :-)

Yes you have to think about the implications of DIY fitting a stove in a shed that belongs to the LA, if it all goes horribly wrong you could be in deep water.

I didn't want to be the prophet of doom but 50K from the small eco boost petrols seems to be 'good' and our rep hacks were seeing a couple of engines in that mileage. As an aside the 2.0 litre 4cyl BMW 320d were doing 30mpg until the drivers gave up their fuel cards and now they see 70mpg. I anticipated seeing the maint expenditure for dpf and egr go up through the roof now but I've retired so I'll probably never know (or care)