GW8IZR

I'm _sure_ the one of those I saw was fitted the other way round with the adjuster at the wing side, it looked much lower than that? Ignore me I'm talking nonesense....

I dont think it can be that, whilst my engine is in the same position as yours I come over the top of the intake hose with my air duct and thats gotta be 75mm diameter, its close but doesn't touch the bonnet, then the bonnet curves up another 50mm so there should be at least a bit of clearance. With things like this I stick blu-tac to the bonnet (or whatever) and then close the lid gently, you will then see a witness mark which is exactly where the collision is. HTH

Funny but I was just messing with this today Same main box but with with 1.2 with 225/75R16 and 1.4 with 235/85R16 at 80MPH there is only a couple of hundred RPM difference.

registered and supported

the adjustable relays do work and make the lights flash etc.. but just beware that if a lamp unit fails the flash rate will be the same and you wont know from the drivers seat. You need to be more vigilant with your routine bulb checks ;-)

:-) same here A picture might help.

It says outside the bulkhead..

Is it a black and black/white wire? trace the wires from the brake master cylinder switch and see if they are related.

Just in case you have thought about doing the indicators as well, the flasher unit would need swapping as well. To be fair my only remedial work for this years MOT was to swap a blown tail light bulb, it went on the way to the test centre.. was ok at 07:00 and was duff three miles and 30 minutes later while I was sat in the ATS car park. so my swap to LED's should mean a dramatic improvement in reliability and reduced service cost :-)

The last Mintex pads I used had a soft bitumen like pad on the back and they don't squeal or squeak at all. I always copper slip all the retaining bits and that seems to help as well. On a related subject - I've spent a lifetime driving cars with poor brakes ( compared to modern cars ) so my LR driving style means I hardly ever use them, by anticipation and driving to the conditions means the pads last for ever. Different on the old rally car where I had hard pads that needed to be 'used' to get them to work but didn't fade. Now for my 90 I was wondering if anyone makes a 'soft' pad that might suit my use a bit better. I wouldn't care if they wore out ten times faster as that would still be years of service.

good point - I'm referring to tail lights only.

I fitted the RDX ones, Importantly to me you cant tell they are different until they are on. When on, the light pattern is good and certainly more noticeable than the OEM bulb type. They are red not pink like lots of LED replacement units. They look to be well sealed and as such 'should' be longer lasting.

Ifor P6 with a canopy here as my 'go to' small trailer, its just as happy behind a car, the quad or the landrover. I paid not far off the new price for it when it was 12 months old and ten years on I would get not far off the new price for it. Takes ten minutes to take the canopy off and stick sides on it .. its just designed to be easy to use and last well.

my wife says if we win the lottery she might have an Aston Martin .. now that will be a good trick 'cos we don't do the lottery but that's another story. I must be odd as I'd much rather have one of these or something similar :-)

That joint sometimes goes loose after a uj or box swap, if you are not careful the joint partially collapses as it would in an accident and play is the result. LR say its a none serviceable item but if you get it on the bench and make sure its full length by gripping one half of the shaft in a vice and twatting hitting the other part of the joint (with a soft faced mallet) so its full length the play may well disappear. Its worth trying. HTH

not a comment on that vehicle.. but IMO tall and narrow beats wide and fat round the trees or canes.

if it needs to run all day and not be air.. I'd get a mains powered one. even the cheap ones are pretty good

Plenty copperslip on the new one is worth while.

235 KO2s on my 90, they drive really well. I have had the original AT's on lots of vehicles and they were very good but I'd go with the new now. if you buy the old ones its almost inevitable that you will end up on a mixture eventually

have they supplied master to flex? the one that runs across the top of the bulkhead? Anyway.. if you have a flaring tool make with the cutter and have at it .. (The pipe is bigger than normal brake pipe)

that and the other do look good value. If I needed one I think I'd punt for that..

Its amazing that any 300 TDI's survive without an EGT gauge! But more seriously it is interesting information if you have adjusted things or dont know if someone else has previously. So I used an industrial K type themocouple which I bought from either Farnel or possibly RS - it was about 10 quid I think. The thing with K type thermocouples is that despite claims to the contrary its pretty hard to find an inaccurate one. I bought a cheap LED EGT gauge from ebay but checked it against my Agilent data logger that costs about 10K UKP - remarkably the 50 quid ebay meter read the same - which was what I expected. Even if you have no test gear you can check your gauge at freezing point and 100c with water and if its right there its most likely linear enough to be ok for what you are trying to do. I'm assuming you are going to stick to a sensible margin of safety and not try to adjust everything to max power? When I adjusted mine carefully and set for 14/15 psi boost and a bit of black smoke at full throttle the temp was about 600c on a big long full throttle motorway climb. Vehicle is nice and lively, returns about 30mpg and tinkles through the MOT every year which is what I want. Most of the time the temperature is *much* less than that and thus its not worth me watching the gauge every 30 seconds for fear of disaster! If your that worried just lift that right foot a bit :-) HTH

in my opinion you only need this while you set things up - after a while you never look at it. So I fitted the thermocouple carefully and ran it through to the dash area but just plug in the gauge from time to time, tie wrap it to the dash somewhere short term then stick it in the cubby most of the time. HTH

It is a bit tight at the back but to be honest the discovery air pipe fits OK, have you done something better? For the exhaust downpipe I figured it as best to make the new downpipe in stainless so I wouldn't need to do it again for a long time. I made a new flange and tiged two 45 degree bends to clear the engine mount, after the stainless downpipe it all then interfaces to any standard (or custom) exhaust you choose. The old NA flywheel housing fits allowing you to use the old oil seal but cutting out the centre allows you to use the better 300 rear main oil seal - I'm pleased that I did that as many years on mine is still drip free. Also retain the dowels for locating the engine, the bolts hold it together ok but the dowels locate it accurately. Its only a few seconds with a reamer ( or even a file ) and makes for a better job than the oft suggested bodge of pulling them out. HTH

Good call, I've spent many hours improving mine which yours wont need. I have this one and everything under the yellow line is carp so for the extra 90 quid that you are spending you will have a good tool.