GW8IZR

FWIW At that age I'd do the head gasket anyway so dont bother trying to do the helicoil in situ.

does the noise change if you rest your foot lightly on the clutch pedal?

The quote is not made in stone and is only valid for a time ;-)

I like the bit: .....this information should help you pick the best insurance....... Yep, with someone else :-)

I got a LHS wolf door card for not much money from the bay of e ... it was brand new genuine and fits nicely. All the RHS ones have been too expensive to consider, quite why I don't know. So I have one door card fitted.

...this is an unfinished project in so much as... Not one thing about it actually works :-)

Actually it was a bit easier to find than I expected :-) So face of block to pump mounting face 4 1/4 inches Nose of water pump (four bolts) to water pump mounting face 5 inches

This is going to take a bit longer than I thought as the pump is missing, its probably in the shed :-/ I'll look later today and make some measurements.

I can do it in daylight tomorrow but to be clear, the measurement you want is from the front face of the block to the end of the threaded bit on the water pump pulley? I have a scrap 3.5 carb V8 from a RRC in the back garden

Dealers can do a lot of damage to your brand. I had a new Discovery 2 TD5 that needed the fuel pipe recall, Dealer near Manchester refused to do the work as the floor in the rear was obscured by a plywood board.. fitted by SVO. They wanted to charge me for removing the board and some equipment from the rear. I reckon 30 minutes work for which they estimated 250 Quid. So I ran it for a bit and eventually spotted tell tale droplets of Diesel on the back window. Rolled into my local dealer in North Wales who did the whole lot with no fuss. I asked them about the floor when I collected it, no problem its an SVO so we just did it.. oh and it only added 30 mins to the job so we just did it. A while later a friend ( sadly dead now ) who had been using series LR and 90's all his life as a farmer. He had a TDCI from a dealer in mid wales on some kickback from the FUW, about 2K discount. That was a very early TDCI 90 and had a DMF which failed at 6 months. The same dealer as above that had been so good with me refused to fix it claiming driver abuse. That vehicle was repaired at the owners cost but LR insisted it be fitted with a solid flywheel. It then ran for another 18 months pulling the same trailers with no problem. From LR perspective that was bad news as when he swapped it.. for an Audi! - I heard him regularly telling people at the market how he had been treat - by LR and he would never buy another.

I bought a brand new FL2 and loved it, two years in I wanted to change it but there is no credible alternate. Tried the Discovery sport, was OK but at the price there are other vehicles from BMW/Merc/Volvo that are just better.. so thats what I did. The FL2 was a good vehicle and fitted into the market well. I did some work with Arctic trucks at about the time the Defender was dropped, I thought it might have caused some stress in their business ( particularly as I wanted to buy 130 based radio trucks from them ) but they were happily chopping Toyotas up and that's what we did.

Very good, nice one.

so now its set up properly do you prefer it to the standard setup? maybe you haven't driven it enough to know yet. I

1/ what gearbox oil do you use. ATF or MTF. why this choice of oil. ATF, because its what is recommended by the manufacturer and Mr Ashcroft when I asked him :-) They both know more about it than me 2/ how often do you change your gearbox oil Six months after the rebuild and from now on the recommended interval 3/ what brand do you use To be honest whatever is on the shelf at the factor at a reasonable price. HTH

I used one from a Discovery, its ok.. had to shorten the arm a bit but certainly works ok.

IF YOU ARE A SERIOUS RANGE ROVER PERSON YOU WILL KNOW THAT AN EARLY RANGE ROVER DIESEL MANUAL IS ONE TO HAVE IN YOU COLECITION, it certainly is a nice looking vehicle and I imagine it will fetch a good price.. but I think I'd rather have a 2 door V8 :-)

I'm not arguing about BP quality, read my first post :-) In my example above the part was ordered from a main dealer but it came in a sealed green and white box with a genuine parts label on it.... the component inside was in a blue bag. What I'm saying is that in truth buying a part for older vehicles suffixed G probably doesn't mean as much as we might think. I dont really care who supplies my bits, I care that they work but as an example buying a Timken or SKF bearing from BSL or the same in a genuine LR bag with a genuine parts label probably isnt adding much of a difference apart from some added margin. Anyway I'll continue searching

Who'd have thought it, a discussion about Britpart going off on one :-) The last genuine part I bought from a LR dealer was for an older Discovery - G suffix, LR genuine sticker and all, it was in a BP coloured bag and was rubbish. I ended up replacing it with a Bearmach part which was ok... BUT I think you have to treat selection of the parts on their merit and load that by the importance of the bit.. if its a door seal or a timing belt idler? Witness the 36 month old BP timing kit I had in the shed, good belt, poor bearings in the idler.. the kit I saw at the indi the other day looked very good. Regardless of the semantics of who actually makes, QA's and distributes the parts, when we are talking about obsolete parts for an out of production engine I think its foolish to imagine that specifying G means LR has anything more than an administrative function here. Anyway thanks for all the comments and I'll keep looking for something half decent to fit.

Well from investigation it seems its Britpart.. I'm going to ask Turner as well as here, they always seem to give me good advice. Its a tiny amount of money compared to the consequence of it all going wrong so I'd just like to get something decent :-)

When I ordered a lot of bits for the engine build I did get a BP kit which I never fitted.. for the aforementioned reasons. I just dug it out of the shed and had a look, it is indeed a Dayco belt but the idler is in a BP box, there is a little lateral play in the bearing and the crank seal is typical Chinese plastic so neither of those will be used. I seem to have given away most of the rest of the bits, I +think+ 'er brother had some stuff for his Discovery. So I'll just try to get the missing genuine bits I need, it is a pity as the BP shouldered pulley is machined from one piece not spot welded like the G item, it certainly looks better.

Well its time to do the belt, I just need to get the bits in ready for the job. My position is that I hate Britpart stuff and have had some disastrous stuff in blue bags, so much so I just don't use it. There is a local indi (NW England not Anglesey) who has a very good reputation as a supplier and has a very nice workshop full of RR on four posters. I called in to ask them what they use.. He reckoned the BP kit was the best to get. So I just punted the question what if the money doesnt matter and its your own vehicle? He stuck to his guns saying the machined pulleys and idlers in the BP kits were better than the genuine spot welded pulleys originally fitted and its a Dayco belt ( which is what I'd use normally ) Any views here either way?

Ah thanks for that, looks like about 6000 before mine :-)

I would be really interested to know what the first 90 serial number was? I had looked at this in the past and assumed ( ass ) that the first 90 serial would be 001 :-) mine is an early 1985 and whilst I'm sure it has no real historic significance it would be nice to know how many went before.

In days of old a Guinness bottle label worked

I had an Austin Cambridge with a drain tap in the rad, when you opened it there was a bit of a squeak as the brass moved, no water ever came out of it as it was too full of rusty crud :-)