oneandtwo

Definatly don't want to keep it myself, I already have two 300tdi 90's and a 300tdi 110 all on new Richards chassis, hence I haven't got the inclination to replace yet another chassis! I think I can save it with a couple of outriggers and some neat patching. It already has freestyle alloys with a recent set of take off General Grabber tyres so hopefully should be able to turn it into a nice truck again. I'm amazed at the lack of rust anywhere apart from the chassis, plus being a truck cab it still has galvanised cappings. I also didn't realise it has a genuine full width allisport intercooler so that will find a new home on my 110. I'm guessing autumn would be a better time to sell it on plus gives me time to get it 100%.

I've just picked up an MOT failed 1996 90, completely standard bar some chequerplate on sills, not a dent on it and fantastic bulkhead and doors, the best I've seen infact in over fifteen I've owned, and just over 50,000 from new, from a work colleague. It has failed on quite a lot of chassis rot, shocks and a couple of minor items. I don't have the time and inclination to put a new chassis under it these days (done five now!). My original intention was to break it up and sell it in lumps ie engine and box, bulkhead, rolling chassis as everything is in really good condition apart from the chassis and turn a little profit on it; however after a thorough hammer inspection I can get the chassis through an mot for a couple of hundred pounds without any boding, and a few days work. Ive looked on eBay to try and make up my mind and prices vary wildly, there's a load of rubbish old nineties converted to TDI that seem to have sold for £3000+, then lots of others that are seemingly unsold. Anyone any ideas on a realistic value for this one?

Halfords sell 34mm 1/2" drive impact sockets reasonably priced if you are stuck. I know this as I needed one as I had a bit of play in my steering appear while away on a trip once and the complete opposite from everyone else had happened - the drop arm had worked loose!

Is anyone modifying a late bulkhead to fit an earlier vehicle? I did this a few years ago to a couple of new ones and have stored them away. Only snag is I now want to fit one into a late td5. So I need the special wiper mounting plate and the central vent trim mount that I so carefully cut off and chucked away all those years ago! If anyone is doing this or about to, can I purchase the above parts! Thanks.

JCS are far better than mikalor.

I ordered two brand new puma doors last week from main dealer. They were shipped to me in original LR boxes but had been overpacked for protection in quite a few britpart boxes, all addressed to main dealer, so it's not just home DIY people who buy britpart!

Yes but you need a post late 1995 300tdi or later slam panel with the riveted on mechanism guard. The early 300tdi slampanels and before don't accept the cable. Also need to drill two holes in footwell side for bracket and remove old bracket. They are much better than the old handle.

When rummaging through paperwork there was work done at main dealer in 2009 - "customer reports engine sounding very rough" then £1000 worth of replacement cats and labour. The engine sounds okay under the bonnet - the rhythmic chuffing is from the right hand tailpipe - it is noticeable with the windows up and loud with them down. I would hope at 69k it wasn't mechanical. The battery was totally flat - it's been standing for 9 months I believe, wouldn't even light up the dashboard, charged it overnight and vehicle came back to life. Air suspension inactive and sat at normal height - I was guessing compressor. Each of the problems in isolation I could work with but my feeling is there's too many of them for anywhere near the £3.5k - also no MOT, GPS aerial has been damaged by low branch from the look of it, needs two rear tyres, discs all round, the key fob appears inactive - I've been opening it with the key in the door. I do still have the keys for it and was going to make a very low offer (1k) when I give them back!

Engine seems to have a misfire on right hand bank, definite chuffing noise from right hand exhaust and engine fault light comes on. Air suspension inactive fault and cracked heated screen, I've walked away!

I am looking at purchasing a l322 on behalf of my parents. Someone I know has a 2004 4.4 v8 vogue with 70,000 miles and will let me have it for £3000 as it has been standing for some months and has a dent in the upper tailgate. Should I be wary of potential faults? I know nothing about l322s The oil level seemed very high on the dipstick, could this be as simple as overfilling it or something worse? Thanks

Defender has 70amp, disco 100amp / 120 amp. All the fittings are the same. If you have the choice fit the later smaller pulley and shorter belt, the alternator spins faster then and charges better at idle. If you use a disco alternator on a defender you are supposed to update the wiring from alternator to battery to cope with the higher output.

My money is on the servo, if the pedal doesn't sink then something is wrong. Despite being a new servo, In the past six months I have had two faulty new servos. The first one was a new pattern servo. This was so badly designed the mounting studs didn't go all the way through from the the master cylinder to the pedal box, so as soon as the brake was applied, the servo immediately flexed and lost all vacuum, with a telltale whooshing noise coming from the pedal box as soon as the pedal was touched. The next one was a Lucas TRW brand which had a poorly crimped joint which caused a loss of vacuum. Try spraying washing up liquid over the servo and see if it gets sucked in anywhere. The o ring seal to the master cylinder can sometimes be poorly seated.

The coolant tank cap on my older standard 300tdi 90 just touches the underside reinforcing of the replacement td5 bonnet and prevents it from sitting squarely when closed. Rather than cutting away the bonnet reinforcement, If I made some brackets and lowered the coolant tank 10mm then it would clear the bonnet - is there any downsides to doing this? I think the coolant tank sits lower than the actual coolant level of a 300tdi anyway.

From memory I think the left one is good down to the lower door hinge. The right one has surface rust just above the body barrel line. They both are fitted with deadlocks about 2" below the door striker but are basically just a couple of round holes to Mig up. I will take a proper look tommorow for you.

The lock hole is the handle is much larger diameter and also deeper. The new type handles are £50 each. The rear door handle is also different but that is about £30 on eBay Before Christmas there was a seller on ebay doing new late ignition barrel, three matching lock barrels and a pair of new late front door handles for £69.99, but they were poorly listed so we're quite hard to find. Unfortunatly I bought all three of their remaining sets, one for each of my defenders! If you want dimensions I still have asset boxed up which ie not yet fitted.

Change the gearbox oil for fresh mtf94. Hard to select second from cold I'd very common, in fact almost normal, for an r380. I've found fresh correct oil can help with the shifting.

Yes, otherwise you will be replacing the radiator too! you will need a viscous hub spanner 32mm to remove th fan, - left hand thread. Also need to check flywheel carefully - I've had three over the years with hairline cracks on the surface from clutch slip overheating the flywheel. The first time back in the early 2000's I just put a new clutch in and ignored the cracks, only to have the clutch fail again in six months and 5k miles the cracked flywheel had completely worn the friction material away down to the rivets - the pressure plate side was perfect still.

These bits any good to anyone?

Td5/puma ones and enlarge the holes to suit. That's what I did on my partners 90.

If you need to have a rolled tailpipe landrover do a rolled end section that knocks on over the standard 300tdi 110 tailpipe if that is any help, part number NTC2022

New genuine channels come predrilled for screws, four or five screws down rear edge and top channel, and five or six down the front channel. Hiwever i have stripped down a number of Puma doors to respray now and from the factory they seem to only use the bare minimum number of screws to hold the channel in, just one or two on each channel. You need to use the correct very short screws from Land Rover to retain the top channel as anything longer contacts to other side of the door frame and strips out the hole. Even pattern screws are too long.

There are two types, the one with a tube the same diameter all the way along, and the type with the reduced diameter where it passes through the chassis. I've done plenty of these and always have used the second type. Just cut the outrigger off flush with the chassis, then grind the remnants down so chassis is clean metal on outside. Then I use an air chisel to remove any rust and clean up the remains of the tube left in the chassis. Then grind down inside face of the chassis to clean metal up to weld to. You don't need to remove the tank or any bodywork, just support the tank while you do the above. The outrigger will knock straight in if you rotate it backwards when inserting it, you may need to give it a belt with a hammer when fitting it

The plastic washers are seals. They go between the door frame and nut on the inside and when the hinge bolts are tightened they deform and form a seal to prevent water ingress through the tubes in the doorframe.

Just found it on my rave manual, I didn't think it covered power steering box overhaul but I was mistaken.. Thanks

Is their a guide or manual for the 4 bolt steering box rebuild? I have an almost new genuine landrover box that someone drove for a couple of thousand miles with a loose drop arm and ruined the splines on the sector shaft; there were no fluid leaks or damage/play to the box, I've stripped it down and it's all good inside. I have an identical box with a leaking input shaft I was going to swap the sector shaft out of but wanted to know the correct procedure for aligning the sector shaft teeth with the teeth on the piston ram. Thanks.