oneandtwo

I once made a nice frame for 200tdi rad and intercooler that houses them both, slightly staggered, into an early 2a. It required no cutting or drilling of any bodywork / wings or rad panel, picked up on all the original fixings for the series rad and even allowed the radiator to be changed by lifting put the top like on a tdi defender.

Yes, it is a straight swap but the UJs are not replaceable on the later shaft unlike the earlier shaft so if one develops play you have to replace the entire assembly.

Yes, the tdci is completely different with no vents, but you can still buy earlier bulkheads with vents from landrover - they are still producing them for the earlier models - mine with vents etc have date stamps in the pillar pressings of December 2015, and were on back order until this April.

You need to remove from 300tdi bulkhead and weld to 200 - the bracket which holds the chassis wiring loom on RH inner side of footwell, bracket which holds fuse box on LH top of footwell and one of the tags on RH top footwell which holds engine loom. Everything else is the same. You can still buy brand new bulkheads from LR - I have recently bought three, one of which appears to be a 'one version fits all' with the old style removable gearbox tunnel.

Be warned that if this has happened, remove the input gear and feel for play in the intermediate gear on the shaft - when I did this the bolt forced the intermediate gear bearing locating circlip to deform and the result was a lot of slop in the gear

I've just had two brand new bulkheads delivered from main dealer. The heater cut out on left hand side of bulkhead is twice as big as usual - did they change the heater on the very late td5's? (I have a 56 plate on the drive but don't fancy stripping the dash out just out of curiosity! Curiously both came with new vent flaps ready fitted, the vent hinge brackets have changed, and Land Rover appear to have reverted to using captive nuts for the door hinges like series 2 bulkheads instead of the knock on type. They have also gone back to building them with the r380 tunnel flange like they did ten years ago.

Why not do it properly with an r380 and putting the engine in the 300tdi position? It's easier in the long run as you can use off the shelf exhaust / coolant / oil pipes

Really? What about all the radial cracks visible on the clutch surface? I would be skimming it while it's out if it were me.

Mr brothers 300tdi 90 has not had much use recently. When it was taken out it suffered recently from the brake pedal becoming very hard with zero free play left after 15mins driving , and a then a constant squealing from the drivers side rear brake. The disc showed slight signs of the pads dragging. I assumed it to be a partially stuck rear caliper, so I swapped the whole caliper for a new one, and fitted stainless steel pistons to it at the same time, and new pads to the rear axle. I also adjusted the servo to allow a bit more free play. It has improved, but after ten minutes driving the pedal still rises up towards the driver, and I have heard a very slight squeal from the same rear caliper, although nowhere near as bad as before. Anyone any ideas?

That's not a particularly good example as the joins are visible. All western power 110 truckcab defenders have had the cab and roof sections extended by Roger Young in a similar way however you can't tell it's been done.

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I have two brand new NRC5478 spare - I thought I'd lost mine (I hadn't) so bought two brand new ones but didn't need them in the end.

1/4"

I had one once, I wouldn't have another. Stick with a 300tdi.

If you use a bit of silicon spray on the sunroof rubber, it knocks in all the way around with a rubber mallet in approx 30 seconds!

And you can't give them away usually, I've just sent a disco for scrap with a nice but worthless set still on it.

The roads themselves are in such a bad state of repair they'd probably qualify as greenlanes!

Yes it is all one with spot welded reinforcing flange welded on inside of panel behind the bonnet gutter

I have scrapped at least fifteen 200/300tdi defenders. Every single one of them without exception with the later type servo has had a faulty servo with hairline crack in the usual place. Sometimes these will hold a vacuum but as soon as the pedal is pressed the crack opens up at the vacuum is lost.

The door striker peg wears with age and also the rubber block - this acts as the dovetail but with age the rubber compresses and goes hard. £8 for a new striker usually cures it

Following on from last months 200tdi 90, just bought this complete MOT fail 1997 300tdi. Very straight but chassis, bulkhead, axle casings and doors all completely rotten. Nice gearbox and engine though. In two minds whether I have the enthusiasm to rebuild yet another. This one cost me £500, twice what I have paid for previous 300's!

But it doesn't solve the problem of the disco lt77 being 9" longer than the defender one. Unless you want to put the disco lt77 in place of a R380....

It has gone now but as bowie69 has observed, it was a complete load of rubbish. There was nothing left on it that wasn't bent or rotten. Even the axle cases were rusted through by the spring mounts, and one of the trailing arms had snapped and been sleeved back together. It doesn't owe me anything, I only paid a couple of hundred for it, and that was because despite all the abuse, the 200tdi was still in good order.

Ripped its heart out and the rest is going for scrap tommorow sorry! But in my defence I do still have two much better MOT fail 300tdi 90's should I fancy rebuilding yet another. I had to laugh at the front discs!