Bowie69

Don't forget the hinge side.... you can beef up the lock all you want but if the hinges are standard butts then Mr Burglar will just jemmy the other side, these are a great addition IMHO: Smith & Locke Hinge Bolts Zinc-Plated 2 Pack - Screwfix

The Wolf hood will be very, very expensive, as are sought after. If you have a roll hoop already, what's stopping you getting something welded to that to bolt the top mount to?

There's normally a circlip inside the cylinder, which retains a plate which retains the push rod. Remove the circlip and the whole lot springs apart.

Yep, the thing you probably didn't realise (as I didn't really either) was the remote servo was almost certainly not working properly, once you gave the pedal a good shove the assistance kicked in and then there was more movement. The way vacuum servos work is that they have balanced pressure on both sides of the diaphragm until you press the pedal and overcome a certain amount of pedal movement, at that point a valve opens up and allows atmospheric pressure to the other side of the diaphragm -this valve, I think, was a bit sticky on the old remote servo. You also have to bear in mind that you were pushing two 3/4" master cylinders (453mm2), whereas most vehicles would be running a single tandem 3/4" master (226mm2) so you unassisted pedal effort(i.e. before the servo kicks on) would be ~twice what you would expect, and of course half the movement. I did try 5/8 masters which really helped, however, I think the remote servo was giving up by then and it made the pedal have a weird feel, so I had switched back to the 3/4" before going to Wales and having brake failure. The thing that really pushed me down this road was the old setup had some real compromises, and some other issues: Both masters where under the dash, and really quite difficult to get at, so servicing was a problem. There were two masters, which is more than one failure point There was no balance bar between the masters (there may have been at one time, just not in my ownership), so there was little point in having twin masters. Despite having twin masters, there was only a single remote servo, there's two ways to do this, just assist the front, or, as had been done, make it a single circuit braking system. This is BAD, as if you lose fluid to one master you lose all brakes -you know how I know this. A remote servo made by Lockheed is ~£400 and wouldn't solve the single circuit issues, and they aren't known for being reliable, the non-Lockheed ones are even more unreliable. You can get a £400 twin remote servo, but it is non-Lockheed, so suspect reliability again. In both the previous points there was no space available to fit either the twin, or a second remote servo to make it dual circuit. With all the components it introduced a mass of different failure points. I paid £270 for the iBooster, which is not really very cheap, however, it was made in 2019, and is made by Bosch, apart from pedal rubbers slipping off Tesla have not had a raft of warranty claims relating to iBoosters, so one can assume they are pretty reliable. I did buy a pre-made loom (the plugs and wiring diagrams are available, but I had money available , but not much time) but the loom can be DIY made for ~£45 I think, so you end up with a new, easily available, twin-circuit master, reliable servo and simple connection for <£350 which compared to the compromised Lockheed remote servo is a bit of a bargain. You just need to make it fit, which was a fair bit of work, given space constraints unique to LGT there was a lot of head scratching going on, if it was in a stock Defender I can imagine it all going in quite easily to replace the existing master/servo block, and even be able to use the stock Tesla Model 3 reservoir. Yes, I had to be careful not to intrude on where the wheel might end up going on full stuff and hard right lock. I had to cut the secondary shock mount off the wing tube (wasn't being used, and no plans to) to squeeze it all in, but I think it will all work.

Given how easy the pedal is, the leg bracing you in the seat is more likely to get tired. Or just fit a line lock to the rear wheels like I have...

A note on the hydraulics... A lot of people seem to go for the Honda versions of the ibooster, however they use a smaller master, the Tesla Model 3 has a 25mm master, and when you compare number of pistons and sizes on a Model 3 to the 110 calipers I have on LGT they are pretty close, within a couple of mm, so this seemed like a good starting point. The masters fitted are pretty generic Bosch items which are available in other sizes, I am tempted to try a 28 or 33mm master and see what happens, but then I could achieve the same by swapping to RRC calipers.... Brake performance is good, really very good, bit more pedal travel than I am used to, but then I drove my dad's Dacia Duster today and it had the same pedal feel.... So could be like rhat in a Model 3 for all I know...

Things are tight.... Er, that came through upside down?

All in, including the added brace to the bulkhead, and welded to the wing tube Green bungy is there to give the bonnet height so I don't go too high!

The almost finished bracket, mit speedholes, taken from inside footwell:

I stuck a plate to the underlying angle, with suitable holes in it and worked from there... Note the Model S pedal, and yes I had and would need to 'adjust it' slightly in the press. You can also see the adapters, from a classic VW Beetle, which allow me to pipe the reservoir in, remotely, otherwise bonnet clearance is an issue.

Everything out the way: Roughly where I was hoping it would live: But that was with the Model 3 pedal, I ended up with a Model S pedal as has a steel frame and fits with a bit of fettling. The Model 3 pedal has a PA66/GF bracket.

But that is minus the remote servo, that sat on the weird black bracket lower right of photo.

I have been so far down the rabbit hole it will take me a while write everything down... But from an assistance pov, I don't think you can, but you can make your car brake without touching the pedal... 🤔

Sop far so good, if anything there is slightly too much assistance, but then I am not really used to driving newer vehicles, when I do, I normally end up faceplanting the windscreen.

P.s. I think this means I can blame you for it?

Well, is how I would describe it. Had it in there about a week now.

This has been my experience too, just not on a bike.

Quite.... I can think of many....

The roof acts as an umbrella -ask me how I know. Also, if you are driving, nothing really comes in unless you are traversing a high Welsh hill road and a sudden squall strikes and there is horizontal rain and an accompanying stiff wind -then it gets unpleasant - again ask me how I know

EDIS requires the 36-1, MS will run with virtually any trigger set up without EDIS.

Bit of self amalgamating tape wrapped round where the boot is supposed to be and job done

You can use AN adapters for this instead, which personally I think is neater, and avoids having the pipe running down behind the belt (if you want it), I shared how I did this over in my LGT thread, worked perfectly for 2+ years, and you can makes the hoses up at home....

Only real difference is the oil filter, otherwise the bottom of the rover V8 is essentially identical. In fact, there should be more room on a Lhd as there is no oil filter right next to the steering box like you get on RHD, only thing on that side is the autobox cooler lines(assuming auto).

Which autobox and convertor is it using? Mike, I'll have to show you 'disappointment' in LGT some time