Eightpot

You need a 30mm socket.

on a 300Tdi, the water pump/power steering belt is a flat serpentine type belt rather than a V-belt, this is prob the belt you can see - the timing belt is behind that, behind a cover.

you could try these guys - http://www.pirtek.co.uk/pirtek-products/ca...trial-tube.aspx

There's a an ebay shop I can thoroughly recommend selling Bosch Silver 069 batteries for £52 each. I ordered one a few weeks ago and it arrived within 24 hours in the best packaging I've ever seen. See item no 130279573186 Hope that helps!

I know that MM4x4 stock the square plastic inserts for pence each - http://www.mm-4x4.com/ they tend to stock all the little fiddly bits, screws, brackets etc so are worth a go. Give them a bell, tell them what you need and they'll post out.

so what exactly does 'green lane cover' give you then??

The gear lever on a disco box is further back, so you would need to modify the tunnel/seatbox. There are usually loads of cheap boxes for sale on ebay though if you dont want to go to the extra expense of getting your box reconditioned - but I got mine done locally for about £300 which seemed pretty fair.

get a quote from Sureterm. As its only a weekend car, get a limited mileage policy, 3000 or 6000 miles a year, makes a big difference. It'll get cheaper still if you're in club or if your 90's special in some way - ex mod policies are very cheap. They were ok with me not having no claims due to a company car, and i only pay £140 per year fully comp. insurance off-road? Doubt you would get it on any cover as it would be classed as 'motor sport' probably - if you're on a green lane etc then you are on road and covered same as on a motorway.

When you nip up the rear brake adjusters, do you get an even resistance when you turn the wheel? The Britpart rear drums I fitted a while ago have caused a similar problem as they are either slightly oval or have been machined off-centre. If I back the shoe adjuster off enough so the pads don't rub, the pedal goes to the floor, and if I nip it up tighter then the drum pushes the pads in to the cylinder every rotation and gives excess travel again.

Lining the underneath of the floor/gearbox panels with roof flashing tape will make a big difference, especially to the whine from the transfer box & gearbox.Use a couple of layers. As this is under the panels you still keep the military look as well if thats important to you. Then find some rubber matting to make an engine blanket and floor mats if you don't have some already That's the cheap way to do it - probably $70 all in. Otherwise the Wright off-road mats do look very good. I would still use roof flashing tape rather than dynamat as it's a lot cheaper and does the same job. Plug all the little holes in the bulkhead as well and make sure the floor panels are a good fit. I reckon doing this I've reduced noise by 40%, especially the high pitched scream from the gearbox at motorway speeds.

...so we're not having a whip round then? Hopefully this will mean a return to journalism for LRO if they have a few blank pages to fill. Actually they'll have half a magazine to fill if they don't have any cheque book offroaders to feature - only the Cobleys to go and there could be a whole magazine to fill with something more interesting...

ref the spray can repair kits - probably worth taking one (or two - they are made for smaller car tyres really) as it doesnt take much space and might just come in handy, but I believe they make quite a mess once you've used one and the local tyre fitter won't thank you for it. I carry one though just in case.

I'll second the Makita vote - seems pricey to start compared to Netto specials, but if they still make them like the one I bought 18 years ago (looks the same), worth the extra. I bought a £15 one from Focus to do a couple of jobs as I needed the 4.5" disk (my Makita is a 4") - its lasted all of 12 months and expired in a shower of its own sparks last weekend.

my missus put 30 quids worth of petrol in my new Saab Tid on the way back from Edinburgh - it didn't conk out till she got back to Birmingham! had to get the AA out to reset the ECU as it had gone into limp mode - put some diesel in and it was fine. I mis-fueled it twice after that, once put 20 quid of petrol in - the car spluttered and died a couple of miles up the road, so topped it up with diesel, cranked over till it started again and it was fine. Next time, I brimmed the tank with Petrol got the AA to bring it back home on a low loader, siphoned the petrol out and put diesel back in, all fine It actually seemed to drive a bit better with a bit of petrol in the tank...

Open the bonnet and put you hand down the back of the headlamp - grab hold of the bunch of wires that comes out the back of the headlamp bowl and follow them back till you get to a bunch of connectors a few inches back. Have a waggle of those and I reckon you'll find the culprit.

The loom for the horn comes up from the fusebox, behind the dash, into the multi-plug - upto the horn contact, back down to multiplug then the wire for the horn goes out the bulkhead by the clutch cylinder, along the back behind the heater and down the passenger inner wing. Assuming everything from the multiplug to the horn is ok, because it is, then the problem is between the battery and the multiplug. As your clock isn't working either, first check the fuse - glass ones I presume? I've had probs in the past with the contacts getting grubby or not gripping the fuse enough, the fuse being grubby, or the wire inside the fuse being detached from the endcap but looking ok. Then just get a circuit tester as mentioned previously and test you have 12v one side of the fuse, then 12v on the other. If both of those show 12v, the fault is in the wire between fuseboard and multiplug - test this by checking for voltage on the multiplug on the correct pin. If you have 12v there then the problem is in the horn switch or the multiplug. You should be able to make the horn work by bridging the pins on the multiplug with a bit of wire if the wiring is ok.

I was also going to ask why you would want to go with Avon rangemasters - there are much better tyres out there. I used to have them on a Range Rover and they were ok on road but not very good off road. There is a long list of alternatives, but common 'upgrades' which should be easily available at good prices would be; BF Goodrich AT Cooper Discoverer ST General Grabber AT2 Your Avons are probably 205x16? you could look at 7.50x16 or 235 85 16 which are a bit taller and will give you a bit more ground clearance.

I used to run Michelin XZY on my non-power assisted 90, and they are 12 ply! mind you the stering was bloody awfull I didn't notice any difference in the weight of the steering over the previous lighter tyres though - at speed it's irrelevant and when parking the tread pattern, compound of rubber and tyre pressure makes the biggest difference.

Mong! Quality!

Think he's looking to use disco rad & intercooler tho, so shoooould be ok... might have had to drill holes in my frame as well thinking back, but there seemed to be a lot of drilling/chopping/bashing going on at the time so it's a bit of a blur. Also if the rad frame sits too high, rather than chop and weld the chassis brackets, you can cut the feet off the bottom of the rad frame which lowers it an inch, then use bolts through the rad frame to attach it to the chassis mounts. Also worth buying the proper rad frame mounting backets - got some from my local supplier for a few quid and it makes a nice neat job of it.

If I remember rightly, the frame is the same size, rad and intercoolers are the same physical size whether 200/300/disco/defender but the position of the inlet/outlets on rad and intercooler can vary. I think disco rad has inlet/outlet both on one side, on defender version they are on opposite sides, though I might be corrected there. I have a disco 200TDi rad and a 300 intercooler. The 200tdi rad is perfect for the conversion - I think I was able to use my old n/a bottom hose and just extended it a bit to get to the now further away radiator - the X-fan controller switch is perfect for this, but to start off with I used a bit of 2" plastic plumbing pipe to sleeve the extra bit if hose on to reach the rad. The disco 300tdi intercooler has the bottom inlet pipe at a better angle I think than the 200tdi version. hope that helps

I would also go with removing the ARB. If your springs are soft as it is, when you've dumped an extra 50 odd litres of fuel in the rear tank you'll have a well saggy rear end So heavier duty rear springs are on the cards anyway - standard LR HD springs should firm things up nicely and some gas shocks will tighten it up a bit more. I've also put rubber spring isolators off a disco at top and bottom of both rear springs just to give a little more lift to hoik the back up when it's fueled up.

Don't think there's any difference in the clutch plate, but order a 200TDi one anyway if you're given the option. There's a lot more work to do to use the disco engine - unless the N/A box is trashed I wouldn't bother personally. A forum or google search should bring up some threads on using a disco gearbox. The only downside to using the N/A box is the downpipe issue, but if you throw a bit of money at a decent conversion pipe it's an easy and quick job. Either that or fabricate one up, but looking at my Steve Parker one, theres quite a lot of fabricating and welding goes into it, otherwise it would be very easy to end up with something quite restrictive and poor fitting.

STT's are good, haven't been stuck with them yet and they are very good on road and wear well. They can clog a bit in thick mud but if you spin the wheels hard it will throw it out. They air down very well - ran them for very long fast periods at less than 1 bar. I'd buy another set.

yep, a small in-line filter would be easy enough to fit in and would give an extra bit of protection - I think it would probably be good for the pump to have a little resistance in the fuel line anyway as it wouldn't normally be able to free flow in normal operation.