tacr2man

I made some chains for a ride on mower for snow ploughing , what a pita , getting it right for even that slow moving vehicle ended with a Mk 4 version . I used just a cheap link chain . For my 110 I bought them , as I value not damaging the wheel arches , and hanging onto my brake hoses. You need a supply of twist link chain in a tough grade of steel , thats the first problem , then working all the geometry , for tensioning etc Good luck

Dual purpose vehicle can also be by way of having drive to all wheels ! Threrefore you are OK

You must be trying to live up to the second part of your forum name . every item on that vehicle must be almost impossible to get , they were known for rusting when they were new, be far easier to fiddle about with a landrover. Has it got steel springs or the flexitor suspension? The whole production run was only for a period of about 10 years . Good luck

I have a donaldson up on the front of the roofrack and the snorkle pipe goes up to that , worked well for about 3 decades and was ok with the V8 and with the current diesel , ideal for dusty conditions as its well up out of the way .

Carrying more can save you quite a bit , I just did a trip thru Europe , filled up in Luxembourg at about E1.07 next fill was Czech at E1.15 that got me back home germany was E1.3 and UK E1.7 ( all prices per litre) I carry 172 litres in tanks which is probably the same as a couple of children

Dont see these or any such like being much cop , for a start you never see AA etc using them , they might do if your battery is only slightly down , if they could store much in them why have we got great big black cubes as batteries in the vehicle . JMHO

They arent worried the police will be called , as the response time is probably so long that they could do an engine overhaul why they were waiting

how about this http://www.devon4x4.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=38019&category_id=233&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=14 but you are a bit limited with a 90 , what range do you have as standard ?

Have always had tremendous reliability with my land-rovers over more than 4 decades, and 100' s of thousands of miles . Last trip over 3500kms thru Germany . to Prague and back , couldn't even top oil or water up . In 15 years traveling to and in Australia , 1 puncture, 1 uni joint , and 1 broken s/absorber . remember the 6 P's

went today , back already , it was a bit light on , not huge numbers , no stalls to speak of. Dont think they promoted it enough, couple of interesting rover exhibits in the museum , not seen in there before .

Anyone going ? I meant to type weekend

quite a few vehicles have cooling fan switch off delay as standard , IIRC some Subaru models for a start.

You are flogging a dead horse , the vehicle has been repaired , so how can you prove what the level of damage was, and that it was down to the other party, especially as your other party doesn't seem averse to being economical with the truth . I dont think you will get anywhere with your ins co , trying to bring them in at this late stage . I would put it down to experience , and follow the correct procedure if there is a next time.

I know what you mean , spent nearly £400 on breakdown and travel insurance , and then drove my 30year old 110 over 3500kmsthru EU without even needing to top up water or oil , or even a sneeze between us

I had a 3.9i in my 110 csw (replaced the old 3.5) , I had a 13 row mocal oil cooler, standard viscous fan and the normal size V8 rad(with one extra row) that was able to handle 45C towing a 3.5 ton load with no problems . So it would seem that if you have the standard V8 rad , and a similar oil cooler it should be able to cope easily . Aussie spec V8 have the a/c condensor in front of rad and they also dont suffer from o/heating , the underbonnet temp thing is a problem in Australia as it heats the footwells, and seatbase to a level where you cant touch them , luckily the csw was fully carpeted, I dont know of anyone successfully overcoming the problem. Wrapping the exhaust , and putting vents in rear of bonnet were some.

It is also important to ue the correct length screws in the gen version , as they can bottom out before clamping correctly

ask Manuel I think its spanish for What?

QUE?

Have you got any pics of the mountings or part numbers ?

I would think that anyone buying a sports car or performance vehicle would expect that almost as a given

it would be a help if you didnt rely on telepathy or intuition , and state what vehicle and engine version you are asking about

I have a discovery tgb in my 90 which is a 300tdi edis (slightly higher power ) running on 265/75r16 BFG MT it is an auto , so the higher gearing doesn't detract from ability to pull away from stop (due to torque converter) . Its best use is on dual carriageways or motorways allowing a low rpm relaxed feeling cruise , also the auto part is very good in town. It is not at its best in hills or when towing ,some of this is due to change points on the auto , but the main thing is down to its 1.2 is overgeared , I am somewhat torn between leaving as is due what i do mostly with it, and fitting a 1.4 (which i have sat in garage) . If i didn't have my 110 to do the heavy towing i would have probably changed it .JMHO

Things dont change Had the same experience 3 decades ago , they ended up being bought up and asset stripped

It wont hurt , just change it a bit earlier than the diesel oil (based on mileage) otherwise if not reached a year will be fine . When that engine was current , it was not unusual just to use multigrade engine oil of whatever persuasion, never heard of anything untoward

HTSH