steve_d

Have now driven the Dakar for the first time (to and from SVA test). What made me thing RR police spec Red/White springs would be OK I don't know or I could have just been swayed by the fact they were only £10.58 each. Anyway they seem to be much too hard. The SVA test showed that it weighs 984Kg (2169lb) at the front and 784 (1728lb) at the rear. It is on polybushes and +2" De Carbon shocks all round. Can anyone suggest a suitable spring or some tech info on how to choose the right rate etc.? Many thanks Steve

Yes, but how will the rest of us learn anything? Steve (Selfish reason for the above comment...My kickdown is a little early on my 3.5efi. I think I can just back the cable off a little so was hoping the answer to the OP would confirm this)

This is a traction Kite http://www.flexifoil.com/shop/traction/kites/ This is a buggy http://www.flexifoil.com/shop/traction/har...standard_buggy/ This is what happens when you put the two together http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=Vxh-eRyi3hw&...feature=related Steve

Does the handbook give any reason for not pulling the fuses? Seems to me they have to be pulled to eliminate all the options. Steve

The inference of the interview was that the vehicle had slipped and rolled from the track into the river rather than an ill-advised fording attempt. Steve

A buggy has been suggested but how about a Traction Kite Buggy. This would be fairly easy to make thereby ensuring you complete the task. As these already exist the main part of the project would involve researching what other features users would like to see or what the failings are of the currently available models. Following your comment about having a client you could contact Kite shops and see if they would be prepared to act the part of the client and give you their ideal buggy specification and target price. Steve

When considering the chassis and your build you should think about the front bulkhead. As has been said, the beast looks very similar to a Dakar (I should know I'm building one) so you could follow similar lines by leaving in place the front bulkhead, dash, steering/brake controls, transmission tunnel carrying gear shifts and handbrake and finally the floor pans back to and including the cross member behind the front seats. If you leave all this in place the project fits more easily into the 'rebody' description thereby avoiding SVA. Steve

Nige I have the SVA Manual with all the light position dimensions if you don't already have this info. Steve

Would be nice to think that but I have had amps fail where they would work at tickover but would not rev up. Have also had the failure mode where it would fail when warm but worked again when left to cool. Steve

SVA is £190. My Dakar had its test today. After 6 hours I came away with a failure and a long list of things to fix. However, there is nothing on the list which is not fixable. The main item being that the back end is much lighter than a RRC and the rear brakes lock up first so I need to replace the rear brake compensating valve with something that I can adjust and then lock. The thing that takes time in preparing for the test is finding and fixing the sharp edges. Steve

A quick look at the latest proposed IVA manual for 'Wheel Guards' says. It must cover the width of the tyre starting at 30 degrees forward of wheel centre to 50 degrees rearward. After the 50 degrees it no longer has to cover the whole breadth of the tyre. The guard must extend rearward down to a point not less than 150mm above the wheel centre. For the last part I'm assuming this can be a mudflap. Steve

In my reading of the new IVA, which will shortly replace SVA, I have found some areas which are more stringent but in the main it is better written and clearer in the detail requirements. SVA test tomorrow on the Dakar. Steve

What, no pictures? You can't just wander in without bearing gifts. Anyway, welcome to the madhouse. Steve

Sounds more likely to be the sender to me. Steve

Looks a better price than some of the others. In my diary. Steve

The measuring with string does not work well as the string sits right down in the V whereas the belt does not. Best to find an old belt you can cut then wrap it around the pulleys and measure how much longer or shorter it is than what you want. Belts have more than one section size but once you know what that is then the Halfords part number is the belt length so you just go along the display until you find the size that is closest to your measurement. Unfortunately you will find that the size you want is out of stock. Steve

Not sure what that is exactly but assume that as the brakes do not work in 'over-run' like a trailer brake in as much as they are applied by the towing vehicles brakes then they will not be on when reversing unless the tow vehicle applies its brakes. Steve

If that type of work is not your bag then go find a tidy RRC. The work you describe, repaired at a garage, will cost more than the value of the vehicle. It only becomes viable if you have a welder and a pile of sheet metal and are happy to dive in and fix it yourself. Steve

My neighbour tows a Micra behind his motor home using an A frame. All electrics for indicators, side lights and brake lights are connected through to the Micra and the brakes themselves are connected using dry break quick release hydraulic fittings. I assume this then makes it legal so could be done for any towed vehicle. Steve

Where does the relay live on yours? If under the seat then it will be very prone to corrosion on the terminals so a good exercise pulling the relay in and out of the holder to clean the terminals then stuff some vasaline down inside the terminals. Same will go for all three units under there. Steve

Run and hide. The mods are coming to get you. Steve

If that is all you're going to run off it why do you think you need another battery? If you felt the need you could up the size of your existing battery but I would have thought your standard battery would have been able to cope on its own. Steve

Start with an inspection for leaks then a full bleed of the system. Steve

Good. One less bit to replace. I assume it is the one sitting alongside the Thermotime switch? Steve

Not tried one myself but am told the FM modules work really well. If you've not seen them they plug to the mp3 or ipod and transmit whatever is playing. You then tune your car radio to the required frequency and put that into one of your memory buttons. Steve