steve_d

My Haynes shows a 1990 circuit for a RR classic so there may be some sort of read-across. Yellow ECU pin 6 to road speed transducer Via 'Main cable connector' Yellow ECU Pin 3 to throttle pot Gray/Yellow ECU Pin 17 to Purge Control Valve (where fitted) That's all I can see in the hot-wire EFI circuit but there may be others in the main loom. Steve

The five wires are 4 blades vertical and one across the top which is pin 1. Below left is 3 and right 2. Below again left is 5 and right 4. 1. Earth Black 2. Intermittent. I suspect this just moves it out of park then goes of leaving the wiper to park itself. Brown/light green 3. High speed Blue/light green 4. +12v For park White/light green 5. Low speed Red/light green Steve

A sketch of the wiring on my 1987 The wire colours may not match but the connections should. Mirror_wiring.pdf Steve

I am more than willing to help but have no vehicle to help with (build not finished yet). Can offer moral support and Hobnobs. Steve

Just above this text and to the right is a box 'Options' Click and go down to display. Yours probably has Outline in bold Click on standard. Steve

Just found it. 101MPH listed in the Second hand sales section of LRO. Thanks all for looking. Steve

Yes it is the 3.5efi. Would be grateful if you could look it out for me and I will wait till Sat. unless someone else comes up with something. Thanks Steve

I suspect if you ran the motor backwards the park switch may break as it tried to go the wrong way on its cam. You would also have to find a way to isolate the whole wiper mechanism as the case would now be live. The five wires are 4 blades vertical and one across the top which is pin 1. Below left is 3 and right 2. Below again left is 5 and right 4. 1. Earth 2. Intermittent. I suspect this just moves it out of park then goes of leaving the wiper to park itself. 3. High speed 4. +12v For park 5. Low speed Steve

I've been told that the slight glow is a sign the diode packs are on the way out but don't know enough electricary to say for sure so we will both have to wait for an electric grown-up to come along. Steve

Am applying for the SVA test on my Dakar. One of the questions asks for the top speed? I have looked all over and cannot find it quoted anywhere. I know what speed I had out of her with her RR clothes on but I think I need to quote some official source. Can anyone point me at the data? Many thanks Steve

The pressure in the system is controlled by the radiator cap. In the case of the 3.5efi that should be 15lbf/in2. Other vehicles will run different pressures so it is worth checking your rad cap to see that you have the right one. The pressure will be stamped into the top of the cap. Steve

The fuel filter for a 1987 EFI Classic has push on fittings and I got mine from Halfords. Steve

I've used copper central heating pipe which comes on a roll from B&Q then short rubber pipes at the ends to make the final connections. It is not as hard as brake pipe so can be bent back and forth as you work it into position over the chassis. Steve

If you are not happy with Nord-lock washers then you could try http://www.schnorr.com/safetywashers.html which work very well. Where I work we have also used drilled cap head bolts and wire lock. Having suggested the above I still believe repairing the damage with helicoil then using either 8.8 or higher bolt with Loctite 270 or better still 2701 (which is oil tolerant) will do the job provided you can leave the Loctite to go off. Steve

I would like to think that this was the act of an avid supporter rather than another competitor and that it took place without the knowledge of the competitor the sabotage was supposed to promote. We have all seen the scene of the loosing boxers mother battering the winner with a handbag so perhaps this is just an extension of that. Steve

Can you see my house from up there? Steve

The braided lines you make up yourself are very good but can be a bit of a fiddle to do. You need a 'Dremel' with a cutting disc. Make sure you put the outer part of the fitting onto the line before you cut it to length otherwise the braid splays and you can't get it on. When you cut the line wrap it very tight with a couple of turns of masking tape then using the 'Dremel' very slowly cut through the middle of the tape so that the tape prevents both sides of the cut splaying. Work your way all around the cut gently cutting the braid but not the inner. If you try and cut right through the cutter will snag on the braid and splay it out making your life a misery. Steve

When going through the tests in the tech archive there will be one testing the air temperature sensor in the flapper which you will do by connecting a multimeter to certain pins on the flapper. When you do this test do not connect for more than a couple of seconds as even the current of a digital multimeter can burn out the sensor. I found this one out too late. Steve

That draft handbook makes no mention of the vehicle having to have ABS. The only reference to ABS is saying if it is fitted it must be fully functioning and goes on to describe how the warning lights should work.

Don't fit the sensor just plug it in and see if it fixes the problem. If it does you can fit it. They can be a pig to do so worth proving the point first. Steve

Silly thought. Have you tried connecting the flapper while the engine is running? Steve

Studs are a far stronger fixing and ARP even stronger than that. Have a search around to get the best price. Rimmer do them as a set of studs, washers and nuts. http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/cgi-bin/rimmer.../v8engine/heads Steve

Apologies for 'sucking egg' syndrome but others may not know. Using a stud is very much better for torquing down the head than using bolts. Engine blocks are usually cast iron or ali, neither take a thread very well which means you have to use a coarse thread for head bolts etc. A stud will have the coarse thread on one end and a fine thread on the other. The stud is fitted to the block with a thread lock/sealant and should then become a permanent feature of the block. When the head and gasket are fitted the fine threaded nut allows the load on the cylinder head (being applied by the torque on the nut) to be much finer and evenly applied. There are many suppliers of studs but ARP are the mutts nuts. Steve

As said it is a vacuum reservoir and operates the air flaps in the heater so you can direct air up to the screen or down to your feet. If you disconnect it then the heater controls will not work. Steve

Later LR models have an electronic sender where the older speedo drive entered the 'box. The fittings are exactly the same so I would think you could just source one of those. You can also get senders that fit part way along a speedo cable but that would not be as good a solution. Steve