steve_d

Do you know what you have to achieve in order to pass? If not I have the SVA book here. Steve

Can't think of anything that would lub it without attracting all the muck apart from talcum powder but that would not last five minutes. Steve

If the chassis is RRC then the number is stamped about 15mm above the lower steering box bolts and extends just beyond each bolt head. It is very faint so you will have to wire brush back to bright metal before you can read it. Steve

Take the bleed nipples out and check that the hole is not blocked with muck. Seen it many times. Steve

This is not a stepper. The stepper comes in on the 3.9. It is a ceramic disc with a hole in which is rotated by a bimetallic strip and a heater. I may be off here so someone correct me. I believe the heater is driven through the thermo-time switch which should go live with ignition. The whole thing assumes the valve will close in about the same time the engine warms up. I don't believe the valve functions during hot starts as engine heat keeps it closed even though the switch has removed power to the heater. It certainly does not perform like a stepper to add more air for A/C load etc. Steve ETA Right you had your chance to correct me and missed it so I will have to correct myself. Thermo-time switch only drives the cold start injector. The Extra Air Valve is powered from the fuel pump circuit so only has power once air is passing through the flapper. The other side of the EAV is connected to the ECU so I have no idea when that decides to complete the circuit but have to assume it is engine temperature dependant. Steve

Sounds like a normal automotive seam sealant. Normally PU (polyurethane) and comes either brushable in a tin or in a mastic gun cartridge. Steve

White Metal tin/antimony/copper Steve

The RR has permanent 4 wheel drive but there is a differential between front and back. Is it possible to test the brakes using MOT brake testing rollers where only one axle is on the rollers? My Dakar will be going for SVA soon and they would ideally want to find brake efficiency for each axle and each wheel. If they have to use the Tapley Meter it will only give overall brake performance. Many thanks Steve

Apart from asking the question on a Range Rover forum you're not giving us many clues or is that part of the challenge? Steve

If the rust is within 300mm of a strong point like body or seatbelt mount then that will be grounds for a failure. Steve

I have an 87 so can help but not until I get home tonight. Will look back later and see if you have it sorted. Steve

Mine is earlier so may not be the same but my drain pipes run forward from the bottom of the A/C unit and through the engine bulkhead to emerge under the front wing. The later ones may go down through the floor. Steve

Same for me. Steve

I have an older TT700 but have done several free software upgrades direct from the TT website which has improved the functionality quite a lot. You don't come across many bits of kit that can be upgraded in this way. Map upgrades can also be done but you have to pay unless you can find someone to crib them off. Happy with mine. John Cleese gives me my navigation instructions and completes a journey with... 'You have reached your destination, you can get out now but I'm not going to carry your bags'. Steve

Have you checked the timing yet? You may have put the dizzy back in one tooth out which would still run with the dizzy looking like it was in the right place. Steve

My 87 has two 1/2" clear plastic pipes that run forward and through the bulkhead. They are not a very good push fit onto the A/C unit so one of those may have come off. They are very easy to get at. Steve

Sitting here visualising the hub arrangement I would think that if anything was going to bend it would be the flange on the end of the axle tube. Am I missing something that is weaker within the hub or swivel? Steve

My rims are 18"x13" and 18"x9" 2 of each. They took off the tyres, stripped and coated, replaced the tyres, balanced all for £329...well pleased. Steve

Not been involved with a 4.6 but have come across a ticking from another auto which turned out to be a cracked torque converter drive plate. Not what you wanted to hear I know and I hope I'm wrong as it will be a time consuming job for the sake of a cheap & cheerful piece of tin plate. Steve ETA Just re-read your post and you say it does not change with increase in revs so ignore the above.

Most likely 5/16. Pop round and have a rummage in my nut & bolts box. Steve

I have had some very exotic split rim Ultima wheels powder coated recently in Segensworth. Am very impressed with the results and the price. http://www.thewheelspecialist.co.uk/File/fareham-details.php Steve

Add me to the list please as the Dakar should be on the road by then. Camping and I already have a username sticker. Steve

If you managed to get it on then there is not much in the way of interference so I would advise starting with nothing more aggressive than a drum sander and some emery tape on the hub spigot. Steve

I would not bother with the grief of trying to create a lock tab arrangement I would just use an 'Aero' style lock nut. This is like a Nyloc nut but is all metal so will work in your high temp situation. Steve

In a high temp application like this there will be a tenancy for the fixing to become seized. By designing it to use a nut as the moving part it is possible to cut or split the nut off rather than break the fixing. At one time brass nuts were used and VW beetle exhausts were held with nuts incorporating a wire thread insert (Helicoil) both designed to minimise seizure. Steve