steve_d

Dirty connections anywhere in the circuit. Dirty connections at the relay would be high on the list. When you tested and found 5V, was that testing back to a known good earth? If not, and it was tested to the existing tank earth, then this could also be the culprit and would have been at the top of my list if you were just saying the pump was not working. Steve

Had a good search but not found any help on the CTS. Can I use an existing CTS in the 3.5 or do I need to fit something else? If something else, then what do I need to fit and will it fit to an existing location like the original CTS or in place of the thermotime switch? Steve

A quick Google shows RR Classic 30 degree departure angle. 33 with air suspension set high. Disco 21 degrees Disco 3 29.6 degrees Steve

Less is more....or so I'm told. Steve

Fridge As yours is just an extension of your existing floor borrow my electric mixer. That way you can do it at a time and pace that suits you. Steve

Welcome This forums For Sale and Wanted sections would be a good place to start looking for bits. If you truly intend to get your toy muddy then the bits you fit don't have to be new or clean. Enjoy Steve

If you go to http://www.commaoil.com/ Hit where to buy then put in your post code it comes up with loads of places Comma products are sold. Steve

So...as has been said, energy is not free and you are using energy to create/convert the HHO. Is it possible then, that combining the HHO with petrol and oxygen etc. is allowing a more efficient release of the energy they contain and thereby arriving at a net gain? Steve

Thanks Starting to draw up my cct. diag for MS & EDIS. Have most of the Dakar cct done. Steve

Help..I'm confused. On the first page of this thread there is a cct diag supplied by Mr FF. It shows the EDIS connections as:- MS DB37 Pin 24 to EDIS pin 3 for the SAW signal MS DB37 Pin 30 to EDIS pin 1 for the PIP signal But if I look in the megamanual here http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/EDIS.htm It says SAW is connected to MS DB37 Pin 36 Elsewhere in the manual it says pin 30 is for FIdle Steve

I think you got moderated. Know what you mean about the sports cars. I have an LR for the slow lane, a Pug 306 for the middle lane & an Ultima for the fast lane. Welcome Steve

Not sure you can do it on the later vehicles because of all the ECUs talking to each other. So FF does not have to bear the embarrassment of waving his own flag I will tell you that he can supply all the items you will need. Steve

Thanks very much everyone. Found the Maplin one but it is now £29.99. http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?criteria=L40BB Had a Google and found/ordered it at P3online for £25. My Compaq N610c needs 3.5A and this supply gives 6A so should be fine. I'm sorted but feel free to continue discussing other peoples needs or problems...is that a whistling I hear? Cheer Steve

Have an old laptop to run Megasquirt stuff in car. Battery is shot so choices are buy it a new battery to get 3.3 hours run time in car or find some way to supply it some power. It will run off 18VDC or 240AC. A step-up 12 to 18 would seem the most sensible but the only commercial ones I have found are silly money. A cheapy mains inverter would work but just seems a long way round. Any ideas or anyone know where/how I can arrive at the most cost effective solution? Thanks Steve PS. I have not tried it on just 12v I just assumed it would not.

To make the fix even better pull the relay in and out a few times to clean the terminals then stuff the female terminals in the base with vasaline before finally replacing the relay. Steve

The cheapo may not come with the best quality blades and you will want something longer to do the chassis rail in one pass. I used black & Decker Piranha brand bi metal blades 228mm long 1.8mm pitch. Yes they really do fly through a chassis. Steve

The pump is driven by a relay but the wire then goes back to the dash and through the fuse box (Fuse 18) before going to the inertia switch and then to the tank. A number of possible problem areas. I believe the ECU gives a couple of second of pump run when you turn on the ignition but don't know what condition has to exist for it to stay running. You will need to know this before you can do any realistic tests. On the 3.5 flapper system the flap had to be open (air coming in) before the pump runs but I don't know how it works on the hotwire. Steve

Try unplugging and reconnecting each injector. May just be a dirty connection or could be a lazy/dead injector. Steve

I used a Sabre Saw like this http://www.screwfix.com/prods/40058/Power-...All-Purpose-Saw Cut all of my Classic body up and cut through the chassis like butter. Only used a couple of blades and that was only because it snatched and broke the blade. Steve

The locking or unlocking can often be related to a short somewhere. Most common location will be where the wires come across from the drivers door to the door frame. Tailgate is more likely to be a stiff mechanism or lazy actuator. A good session with the oil can should be your start point. Steve

Hi You say 'as you can see I am just up the road' but I can't as you don't have anything in your profile. Anyway, don't know anything much about P38s but there's always a chance to learn. If you post your problems up here there is bound to be someone who can help and the south is blessed with quite a number of active LR4x4 members. There's two of us in my road. Feel free to air your problems you will always get a response even if it is laced with innuendo and pi$$ take. Steve

Filling in your profile so we know where you live may help. Someone local may be prepared to come round and have a laugh at your expense. And, of course, eat your Hobnobs. Steve

VWP could not tell me which was which but Polevolt told me they will both work but that the Junior Power were better sealing. Will order some and see. Polevolt also do them in various colours so I can see some bling yellow ones on the horizon. I plan to replace the connectors and loom for the very reason you say. The wires are brittle and some of the connector clips are broken or missing. Steve

My 1987 3.5 does not have one. Can't speak for later than that. Steve

Am going to make up the loom for my megasquirt 3.5 V8 and am going to treat it to some new injector connectors which seems only fair after 20 years service. I'm seeing 'Junior Timer Connectors' and 'Junior Power Timer Connectors' which both look about right. Are either of these right and if they will both do then which if preferable? Many thanks Steve