steve_d

First of all if your master cylinder has the brake fail warning switch fitted half way down the side of the MS then this must first be disconnected and unscrewed 4 full turns. Bleed sequence. NSR OSR NSF Bleed both screws, on the same side of the calliper, simultaneously. Then the screw on the other side of the calliper. OSF Repeat the above. Ezee bleed is a good bit of kit but make sure you only run about 15psi or less. If you run more pressure you make the bubbles in the fluid smaller and more difficult to get out. Steve

Not wishing to upset anyone but this is a safety critical item and is not the place to start learning about vehicle maintenance. Have a garage come collect it or get a mobile mechanic to do the work. When the problem is solved you can start to learn about how things work. Feel free to come back and ask questions as that is how we all learnt. The only stupid question is the one you don't ask. Again, do not drive the car as the loss of fluid has already disabled one of the dual systems and the fact it is pulling to one side says the remaining system is not in good shape. Steve

I used these guys http://www.thewheelspecialist.co.uk/File/fareham-details.php Was very happy with both the job and price. Steve

Could also be a broken or corroded connection to the slow speed. Steve

An exhaust blow or crack in the manifold can also give a clicking type sound. Steve

I have moved the ECU on my 3.5 Dakar and it now sits in the corner of the windscreen on the passenger side so moving to beside the speedo will be simple. If you remove the speedo binnacle you will be able to reach your arm down inside and pull the whole efi loom up through the hole. Steve

As a pointer for others what was the failure mode and where. Pics would be good. Steve

I was surprised, when visiting an exhaust manufacturer, that when making stainless systems all the flanges and the welding is mild steel. May make sourcing your flanges a little easier. Steve

Is it possible to put the pipes on the wrong way round? Steve

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First move is to ask DVLA if they know the chassis number. If it has been registered then they should be able to help either with the original reg. or an age related. Steve

Looks a fair bit of kit to me. 5mm steel should be plenty strong enough. Steve

Bader than a bad thing and then some. Steve

Welcome Max Looks like you got yourself a nice project there. Before you get to deep into springs and big wheels get the welding done and go play. As it stands or with some slightly aggressive tyres will be more than enough for you to learn on. Amend your profile so we can see where you hail from. From this you may find someone local who can donate bits to a good cause. This will be an excellent way for you to learn all things automotive and beyond. I started part time working in a garage when I was 14 so you are in good company. Steve

I'm surprised Eliot has not shown up. He machined his own so there is the possibility he could make some for you. http://www.mez.co.uk/4l80e-1.html Steve

If this master cylinder is the same system as the RRC then the third port is the secondary braking system. The RRC front calliper has primary and secondary feeds to it and they enter at different points. If you used this master and piped it using all three ports then the fronts would be fed off different systems which would be very dangerous if one failed. I don't think you should use it. Steve

For your competition use you may find yourself at odd angles for an extended period resulting in fuel starvation. If you fit a swirl pot with an inline EFI pump below it you will minimise that risk. If you then supply the swirl pot from two low pressure pumps taking their feed from opposite ends of the tank you can be reasonably assured of a continuous supply. Steve

It may be that in the end they may find grounds to make you take the web site down but I very much doubt they can make you hand over the domain you bought and paid for. Good luck Steve

Most important question is have you changed the cam? If so it must be broken in at not less than 2000rpm for twenty minutes. you can and should vary the revs a little above this but do not go below. If you spring a leak or something and have to abort just turn off do not come down to tickover. When fixed start and go straight back to 2000. Steve

The challenge will be trying to eat the pie through the 3" diameter hole you will be cutting in the lid. Steve

Having had issues taking my Dakar through SVA I would advise not to do to much to the rear brakes. If your hybrid is now much lighter on the rear then you could have too much braking effort and require an adjustable brake compensating valve to make sure the front wheels lock first. Steve

My Dakar passed its SVA yesterday. Now its the paper trail through DVLA. Steve

Well done. Just to expand on something you mentioned. They are getting very hot on you demonstrating your 'Amateur Build' status so you need to make sure the photos you take reflect this. You need to avoid shots that may imply a professional workshop and concentrate more on shots that include, but not in any particular order, the dog, the wife, kids sitting in or on, other cars registered in your name, pictures of you working on it etc. Steve

Can you post more info or a link please. You have legitimately answered someone's question so cannot (in my opinion) be accused of advertising on the forum. Steve

Not sure how relevant the billavista link is as it seems to cover just coilovers. The calculator link from LR90's site does not work for me. Can someone confirm if it is just me? Steve