steve_d

Engine on stand and crank bolt removed and replaced without the washer. Socket and short bar on the bolt to take the drive from the puller. Carefully fit the puller legs to lip around the pulley and take up the tension. Reach behind you for the spanner to go on the puller. Loose your balance and grab the puller to regain your balance. Continue to fall backwards onto the garage floor closely followed by the puller and the crank pulley that was never tight and never needed a puller. Glad nobody was watching. Steve

I now have two cars that attract attention. The Dakar and an Ultima sportscar. Both have the same annoying effect. You approach a roundabout still carrying speed and plan your entry to merge with the traffic. However the traffic on the roundabout sees you coming and slows to get a better look so you then have to drop anchor to avoid hitting them as they sit there almost motionless in the middle of said roundabout. Steve

You should ask them. The more people who ask the more likely they are to get on and do it. Steve

In the case of an LR the chassis is the vehicle. The only way I can see for you to use a SH chassis is to buy it and its V5 then put your body on it and send of the V5 for change of colour, engine etc effectively putting that other vehicle back on the road and scrapping yours. If your vehicle is younger than the replacement chassis you were going to use and the body is in good condition then I think the new chassis is the better route in the long term. Steve

I believe the wiring for the hotwire efi is in the tech info section which will save me trying to read out 40 wire colours. I believe the ignition will be shown on the main wiring but coil negative goes via a resistor into pin 39 on the ecu The +12v should be ignition switched live (white) and go to both the coil +ve and the ignition amp and the capacitor. ignition amp (white/black) goes to -ve on coil. steve ETA everyone else jumped in while I was looking in the book. Would add though that the wiring changes again from 1990.

Twas me. First a thank you for the pull-out. In my defence I would like to say that I pulled quite a number of others out during the rest of the day. By the next outing I should have front and rear winches working to hopefully pull myself out in future. If you think I was stuck try this Steve

My suggestion would be to make an appointment to see the technical officer at your local DVLA office. Take with you a pile of photos showing that you are doing the work yourself (amateur build status) and in particular views of the chassis in the area you are going to chop. If you can, use photo shop to edit the photo to show what it will look like after and that the winch tray or bumper will add more strength than the somewhat corroded cross member does at present. He may agree that the chassis mod is not significant and allow you to retain the chassis number and register a change of body style. He may decide that a new chassis number must be allocated (as with my Dakar) and then SVA required. In your case you should be able to apply for a commercial SVA (because you have a loadspace) which is far less stringent. If you go this route you will end up with a completely legal vehicle.......until you start doing further mods. Steve

My hero. Been looking up hill and down dale etc.etc..for a no volt and mushroom headed stop button for the ex X-eng lathe I just bought off of Simon. None of my local suppliers even had anything from their sources and Google found nothing. Prompted by the comment above found just what I wanted at Axminster. Many thanks. Steve http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp?ses...mp;pf_id=452985

I'm told there is one on here http://sema.org/techtransfer/ But you would need to be a member to download it (2Gb) Next question....is anyone a member of Sema? Steve Just to really pi$$ you off it is an LS7 and includes every external part including the spark plugs.

Don't see any reason why it would be in addition to your loom. Steve

I think the paraffin is going to be the way forward. Next problem is going to be finding somewhere to buy it. Garages used to sell it but I've not seen it for years. Any ideas? Steve

I think smoke is your best defence. My local Tesco Express has a system fitted that fills the whole store with very dense smoke if the alarm is set off. Once the smoke has been cleared business continues as normal so the smoke itself cannot be harmful or damaging as no stock is replaced apart from the fresh bread etc. I like the alarm sounder and the deactivate box open as it will go some way to avoid false activation in the course of your normal business. Fit the alarm sounder inside making it very painful to be in there. Steve

Have just bought a parts washer and to go with it a bottle of concentrated parts washer liquid by Clarke. I'm using the recommended 10:1 mix but am not happy with the result as it does not dissolve grease very well. Having said that it is safer than my normal method of washing items in a biscuit tin of petrol. Anyone have a favourite product or home brewed mix that they can recommend? Thanks Steve

If it were an item you found on the street and took to the police as lost property they would say you can hold it for 6 months and if not claimed in that time it becomes your property. In your case I would write to the guy and say that as you have your money back he should send you both the cost of postage and packing for its return and the amount you have already spent sending it back once. You then state that if you do not receive it within 1 month you will consider it that the owner does not want it back and you will then regard it as your property to use or dispose of at your discretion. Steve

Chichester Off Roading Experience. http://www.core4x4.co.uk/ Gravel pit with a bias towards clay. Takes hours to wash off!!!!! Steve

I assume you are talking about a Stratasys FDM machine that in effect 'inkjet' prints the model using ABS plastic. You say you can take moulds from the model but you can go further than that. By passing the CAD model through other software the walls of the model can themselves be made hollow. When you then produce the FDM (Fused Deposition Model) it can then be passed through an investment casting process just as if it were a wax master. The result can then be a cast piece part in ali, bronze, steel or whatever ready for final machining. Steve

If a ball type winch is used then you will be restricted to only pulling to the rear. If you wanted to pull from the front you would have to start by fitting a rather substantial bumper on which to mount the ball. By this time you could have gone for a winch bumper. I would go the winch bumper route. If the winch is of sufficient size to do the job you will find it is all you can do to pick it up let alone trying to stagger about in the mud to deploy it. Steve

OK, lets come at this from the other direction. What are those pins normally made/used for? Steve

That tube and pins system looks pretty good to me. Does anyone know where you can get the pins as the rest would be easy to make? Steve

If you tapped the holes then a selection of stud lengths would deal with a variety of workpiece heights as well as not having to crawl underneath to insert bolts. Steve

Your not kidding. Had my power washer going for about 2 hours trying to get the Dakar clean. Good fun though. Steve

You may also want to remove the front skirt with the fog lamps if yours has one fitted. Even mild off road will remove it for you. Steve

They can't have "evolved from extreme motorsport" they're not orange. Steve

No, I think you have missed my point. The chassis will twist (as designed) because the vehicle has weight. What I'm saying is if you take all that weight away will the chassis still twist and if it does then how much? If the answer is that without the weight it does not twist much then there is not much lost by welding/bolting the cage on and stiffening it. Steve

What model and year are we talking about? My 87 does not have the resistor pack under the decker panel. I would be starting at the blower control as that is the easiest to get at. The decker panel can be a pig to remove. Seem to remember my resistor pack was behind the switch panel. Can only talk for my wiring, so.... WLG = live from fuse 7. RB = high speed which goes to fan motor but via a connection on the resistor pack. So if you have volts at WLG wire on blower switch set the blower switch to high and you should have volts at RB wire which goes almost directly to the motor. Do you have A/C? Mine has so there is also a relay in the circuit. Took photos of mine when it was stripped down but do not have access to them at the moment as my son has our server shut down for repair. Steve