steve_d

You don't say in your profile where you are. In the UK and particularly down south you could get a second hand column for no a lot. Steve

Haynes says remove the cover on the left hand side. lift carpet and remove 12 bolts. Switch has contacts for reverse and start inhibit. Steve

The 3.9 I'm fitting is the later serpentine drive and has an oil cooler in the rad so have had to source a rad as well. I don't know if all 3.9s are this way. Mine is also going Megasquirt. Had to make a new bracket for the coils as the front cover is a different design. I now have a spare bracket that fits a 3.5 or non-serpentine 3.9 if anyone wants it. Also have a chopped down dizzy I no longer need. Making new loom for the injectors Steve

I don't know the P38 so this is a generalization. If the vehicle is not used much I would start by exercising all the switches you think may be involved. Damp and corrosion can start when they are left standing for a while so waggling the indicator stork and pumping the hazard switch a dozen times or more may restore normality. Steve

Snap. Mine is the same but I did the pump last year and run Halfords classic oil which is about as thick as it gets without finding something specialist. Pump is not difficult to do just remember to pack it with Vasaline when you rebuild it or the oil system will not prime. Have bought mine a 3.9 for Christmas. Steve

As John says you will spend a bucket load of money and still not match the HP of a crate LS. Being a Land Rover forum the tenancy is to stay with the LRV8 but in your case those ties don't exist. Go Chevy, you know you want too. Steve

You may well have used approved parts but until it is inspected only you know if that is true. If you built a hybrid have you used parts suitable for the purpose. Are the brackets you welded to the Mog portal axles made of sufficiently thick material. It goes on. Steve

Sorry, I did not make the rules that you seem to be advocating should be broken. If we go back to your words "..What if I want to scratch build on a new chassis and need an identity to hang on it without bothering with a Q plate? Sure it breaks the bureaucratic rules but so long as no-one loses, so long as it's done properly, where's the harm?......." And in particular "if it's done properly" That is what the SVA is for to check that you have done it properly. If you have, and you pass, you have the scratch built vehicle you wanted and it is legally registered. Steve

I'm assuming the vehicle is being prepared for this specific problem as in a planned desert or snowbound expedition. If so then perhaps the bonnet or Defender rear door could be suitably modified and strengthened so that it can be removed and used as a snow or sand anchor. It would provide the surface area required in this situation and not take up stowage space. Steve

The harm is when you hit someone and and they can't claim because your insurance is invalid. Steve

If you amend your profile with a location then there may be someone local with both laptop and knowledge who can help you. Steve

I'm not saying the product in the link works or is best value but to the general question of do chips work then yes. When LR made your vehicle they did not know if it was going to turn left out of the gates and head for Alaska or right and head for the Sahara. As a result they have programmed the engine management to deal with both. This is of course a compromise along with the need for the engine to be sufficiently protected so that it has reasonable longevity. A chip will remove those extremes and focus on what you now want which is more power, more revs, and all in a relatively benign UK climate. Steve

A front side light or indicator must be visible from 15 degrees above or below and 80 degrees out to the side or 45 degrees when view across the front of the vehicle. From these angles you must be able to see at least 50% of the "apparent surface" of the lamp. Provided nothing else was obstructing the view then the bars mentioned should be OK as long as you can still see the 50%. Steve

Good choice of coolers here. http://www.thinkauto.com/index.html Steve

Sounds to me like you have an air-lock. Steve

Many thanks John More wiring. Steve

Some MS questions if I may. I have a 3.9 serpentine which will receive the MS prior to installing it in the Dakar. • The fuel rail has a sensor in it that I am assuming is a temperature sensor. Is there any function for this in MS? • The fuel regulator would normally have a vacuum connection which would change the fuel pressure with engine load. Should this be connected or blanked off for MS. • There are three sensors that would seem to be water temperature related. One of these would connect to the gauge on the dash but I don’t know which. So I have a big one in the thermostat housing with 2 terminals that are so large they look more like a heater. On the front right of the inlet manifold is a 2 pin sensor and further in a sensor with a single threaded stud for a connection. Can anyone say which of these I should use and for what? • I have the PWM valve to install but along with ‘Mad Pete’ the challenge is to find suitable hoses to plumb it in. The question is does the pipe size matter? I believe I can best route the pipes using 15mm copper pipe, bent and jointed to suit but would this be enough air flow considering the existing stepper and the new Bosch valves are larger bore? Many thanks Steve

If this is still wanted then there is one on the Ramco.co.uk auction site Lot 545 There are also a number of LR related lots including one for LR wings (Lot 696) Last tenders 11th Dec. Steve

Would be nice if they had offered a reason only two can be replaced. Makes no sense to me. Steve

When you fitted the first one did the lip of the plug go in till it was flush with the block (or slightly below flush)? If not then there is reason for it to come out. If you did then you may have problems getting another to stay in place. You will need to use a new one and it may be worth a few minutes spent measuring and selecting the largest one you have available. For those with a rusted and inaccessible plug I have the following bodge. Get a flap wheel or wire brush in a flexi extension and clean up the area as best you can followed by a rag full of solvent to degrease. Then cover the whole area with body filler. The last one I did (on an XJ6) was still there 6 years later when the car went for scrap. Steve

I take it you don't want to spend a morning at the breakers where you could get yourself a valve and a fist full of hose in various shapes and sizes. You can cut off a connector when you retrieve a valve or if you buy a valve on the bay then I have some new connectors along with the terminals and seal grommets. Steve

If, as said, this is near the pedal box then the repair has to be welded. And the weld has to be continuous (despite the original just having a spot weld here and there). Steve

If you try removing material from the mud ring it could go out of balance unless you are doing it on a lathe. I would relieve some ali from the housing which will be much easier. Start with 0.5mm, if it is not enough the engine will 'machine' the required amount. To help others on this issue I am, this evening, completing my trigger wheel build but using the Ford Transit trigger wheel which is pressed steel about 2mm thick. Not only does in make instal easier because it is thin you get the benefit of it only being about £17. Steve

I have always understood the MOT could pull you up on exposed tyre but could be wrong. However, fitting the smaller wheel/tyre combination may go some way to help rather than your present 'in your face ingnore me if you can' situation. re the rust hole. If the hole is not within 300mm of a body mount, suspension mount, seatbelt mount etc and there is no chance of you falling through the floor then you don't have to worry about it. Steve

Yes it could well be. Have the same problem myself, did it again yesterday morning. The problem is in the solenoid where the mud stops the steel plug from sliding freely in the solenoid coil. Have seen this posted elsewhere and the fix was to turn down the steel plug by a few thou for extra clearance. This was also being claimed for those situations where the solenoid was getting too hot from the exhaust header and the steel plug expanding and locking up. Steve