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steve_d

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Everything posted by steve_d

  1. Spotted one on the drive under my Dakar. Knew there was something I forgot to do after putting the engine back in...anti-freeze. Lets hope it did what it was designed to do and save the block. Steve
  2. I'm not saying there is anything wrong with an LPG system but to recover the cost of the install you need to be doing a fair few miles which will not be the case if it is just a plaything. Steve
  3. Have I missed the description of what this is to be used for? I don't think it has been mentioned so, A turbo setup by its very nature will bring in power higher in the revs which will be fine if the project is a race car. If the project is a stump pulling 4x4 them a supercharger would be better. So what is it to be? Steve
  4. You can come up with whatever you like for the inlet but you should use a filter, make sure it is big enough and that your snorkel pipes are big enough. If Offroad/play then there will be no benefit with LPG just lots of hassle and a pain to find somewhere safe for the tank. LPG comes into its own when piling on the motorway miles. Steve
  5. The indicators route through the hazard switch. If the contacts are dirty you will get your symptoms. Try poking the hazard switch in and out for a few minutes and see if that cleans it up a bit. Steve
  6. Make that a grade 10.9 boring old M10. Steve
  7. Before it all started and before the rust set in. Mid build. All worth it in the end. Steve
  8. If you can leave it out for a while then filling it with something like Holts Radflush and leaving it to stew for a bit would help. If you could rig something to pump the brew around for a few hours would be even better. No doubt others will be along to offer some other product or herbal remedy. This is fine as all I'm suggesting is that something to help break up the sludge is better than just a 10 minute fresh water backflush. Steve
  9. More info reqd. You say they are stuck on...is this all wheels? Is this with or without the engine running? I assume it has a servo (which will be where the hissing is coming from). Press the pedal several times to dissipate any vacuum in the servo. Hold the pedal down, not overlie hard, then start the engine. Did the pedal pull down as the vacuum built in the servo? If the brakes are in deed stuck on then it is not a brake bleeding issue. What normally happens is the pedal may not be returning fully which prevents the piston in the master cylinder from coming back past a vent hole which allows the fluid back into the reservoir. A quick check is to make sure something like the carpet or a loose floor mat is not jammed up in the brake pedal. You coul;d try pulling the pedal up by hand and see if that will release them. Some systems have an adjustment in the pushrod system through the servo. It is highly unlikely this will have moved or changed but could be the wrong adjustment if something like the servo or master cylinder have recently been removed or changed. Final thought is that the rubbers may be perished in the master cylinder or the vacuum valve in the servo is stuck. Steve
  10. As a lad I took a clipboard full of part descriptions for a bottom up rebuild of my mini engine. The parts guy/superhuman took the board and disappeared into the racking. I knew he was still in there as I could hear him whistling (badly) from different parts of the store. He was probably gone for 15 mins before returning with every item stacked up on a trolley. Never once looked in the catalogue. As an apprentice I was also sent to the store for the normal trick requests, long weight, sky hook, box of sparks for the grinder etc. etc. but was also sent for a 'Glass Hammer' which the fitter, I was working with, seemed to think we needed. When I got to the front of the queue I told the storeman I knew it was a fools errand but that was what I had to ask for. His response was a look of glee as he replied that he had one. Seems his brother was a glass blower and had made it for him in anticipation of this very request. After a wait of some five years for this to happen he, and the rest of the stores queue, were not going to miss out on the fun so I had to wait while he locked up the stores. By the time we got back to the bench most of the shop floor was in tow. The guy took a fair bit of stick but in the end all agreed it was worth it as the 'Glass Hammer' was a work of art with every detail of the hammer perfectly copied even down to the wedge driven in to hold the head on and the grain of the wooden handle. Steve
  11. My 87 RRC had a water bottle with three pumps fitted, one each for front and rear screens and a third large pump for the headlights. It also has a level sensor which could be useful in a competition to warn you to be a little more frugal with the washes. Steve
  12. Have a look behind the barn or in the undergrowth. There is bound to be a series laying around there somewhere. Tell your local club you have land to use and get yourself a free lifetime membership. Steve
  13. I may be wrong but my first impression would be that genuine wolf wheels would be worth a bit and therefore chopping them up would not be cost effective. Sell them and buy some modular steels with the offset you require. Someone will now tell me the rims are dirt cheap or come free with large packets of Persil washing powder. Steve
  14. Splendid day. Thanks for organising. Got stuck a few times, pulled a few others out so about even I recon. Had to cut short in the end as the engine started playing up so limped it home. I'm suspecting the ignition amp but we will see tomorrow. Steve
  15. Have you tried turning it over with the clutch depressed to confirm it is not a gearbox issue? It is the 'few turns' statement that has me confused as a hydraulic lock, something in a cylinder or a stuck valve would all result in only about 90% of a full rotation. Steve
  16. It is bolted to the back of the Plenum chamber on the top of the engine (three allen head screws) and has a hose going to it from the throttle body. It can be stripped and cleaned. Try the Tech archive there is probably a piece in there about how to strip it because it is something that needs doing often. Not done one myself but I believe you remove the cylindrical part of the valve which then shows the plunger. I believe you then have to switch the ignition a few times to drive the plunger out (stepper motor). Ones apart you just need to clean it all up and reassemble. Steve
  17. http://www.thinkauto.com/ Do the Laminova and another. Can't compare prices as I don't know what size you are thinking of. Steve
  18. Put the black plastic cover on then it connects to the rev counter terminal and mounts to the stud directly across from the terminal. Steve ETA Your idle issue may just be a sticky extra air valve on the back of the plenum. They are famous for gumming up. Steve
  19. I plan to be there. Try not to break anything this time. Steve
  20. What Haynes are you looking at? I have book 0606 1970 to Oct 1992 I was looking at page 13.62 fig 13.122 and page 13.63 fig 13.123 & 13.124 Steve
  21. What I actually meant was for them to give you the name of the guy they use. He is an independent one-man-band haulier. Still, your latest price sounds hard to beat. Steve
  22. Fire Proof? Can't say I've seen a fire proof hose before and would guess there will not be anything clear. Steve
  23. Have a word with Ultima sports on 01455 631366. They are in Hinckley and have cars delivered all over the country by a local guy who is not only cheap but takes considerable care as you might expect when delivering £70k worth of sports car. If needs be say Steve dunford recommended them. Steve
  24. Try this if the link works. It's a parts catalogue for NAS and starts with a list of the VIN definitions. http://www.roverparts.com/Parts_Catalogs/D...F/DIS9_Full.pdf Steve
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