steve_d

A subtle hint, perhaps, that you also managed to set fire to the car. Steve

Please excuse a question from someone who knows nothing about Mogs. So the chassis when used in the original vehicle is designed to twist but in that case is, I'm guessing, quite a heavy vehicle. If you then take away all that weight and replace with a roll cage and a couple of seats how much does the chassis twist and is it worth worrying about? Steve

Reply to both PBUAK is still a possibility but Auto adjust DST is ticked. Steve I'm of to bed, all will be well in the morning. Sorry just noticed, according to my clock it is morning.

I thought it was only me who does that. Steve

There may be a small leak so that knocks the sealed for life argument and a service tech would not even look at the level so it may have been low for a long time. I agree with Reg above that a drain and flush would be the way to go. Do you have the specification for that ubber expensive auto fluid as I'm sure you can get it cheaper at an auto factors? I would contact Ashcroft and have a chat. I can think of no better source of knowledge and ultimately replacement 'box if it comes to it. Steve

You can get press tools to remove them but I have never had much success with them. You can drill through the rubber until you can break out the steel centre. Having done that you can carefully hacksaw through the steel sleeve from the inside. Be careful not to cut right through into the housing. You can then collapse the sleeve in on itself and remove. You can burn the rubber out but is very smelly and I'm not happy with what the temperatures may be doing to the housing. You may also manage to cut the rubber out with a jigsaw. Get a flap wheel or small drum sander and polish the inside of the housing. You need to do this because the rubbers you are fitting do not have an outer sleeve so will move in the housing. If you leave the housing rough and rusty it will tear up your new rubber in next to no time. Fitting the new rubbers should not present any problems. Steve

What you use will also depend on what you want to put on top of it, how long you want to use it and what conditions. I have here a Clark telescopic which is not quite as high as you want but will take a cross-head carrying three antenna and will do it in all weathers. If you only want to get a little more coverage on a good day with a light quarter wave whip then I use one of those carbon fishing poles you use to put club flags on. They are quite cheap and extend to 6 metre. Something like this may suit. http://www.radioworld.co.uk/~radio/catalog...ast-p-5387.html Steve

So you have a nice shiny new 9.5c TDS winch and a second hand 12,000lb (reputedly) Chinese type winch. Which do you put on the front and which on the rear? There are various thoughts like....are you more likely to want to pull yourself out the way you came in or potentially get yourself into a worse situation trying to go forward. At this time I don't have the experience to do contests so will not have that 'need' to keep trying to go forward. Any thoughts? Steve

Don't want to steal the thread but am confused. If during split charge the two batteries are connected together then why can I not dispense with a split charge and leave both batteries connected. I always thought you needed a split charge for a caravan because the second battery was going to be a leisure type and must be isolated from starter type currents. The application most of us are talking about here is two batteries of the same type and coping with similar currents i.e. starting or winching. As an aside I have also been told (by someone I would rate as an expert in this field) that strapping the two together is the way to go. Steve

I'm on the list for this one. Steve

You can replace the seals without removing the heads (secret Indian rope trick) but I suspect just replacing the seals is not going to fix the problem. Steve

There are three of these coming up for auction at the end of the month. http://www.ppauctions.com/ONLINE/index.php It is currently under the future auctions so the individual lots are not listed yet. It is part of the BAE Systems Auction. See the auction flyer. I don’t think this auction is very well known and items seem to go quite cheap. Also on there of note are three Defenders, a MOG 406 with snow plough and gritter and a hydraulic pipe bender amongst a host of other nice engineering bits. Steve

Does sound like the plate but you could also check that you have not developed excessive end float on the crank shaft. Steve

Couple of places I use http://www.thinkauto.com/ http://www.bgcmotorsport.co.uk/ Steve

One further point on the torque converter. As said remove the cover and then release the four bolts which involves turning the flexplate (flywheel) to get at each of them. The torque converter engages on a spigot in the middle of the flexplate and can be a tight fit so when the bolts are out get a screwdriver between and force the torque converter away fro the flexplate until it is free from the spigot. Reason. You MUST NOT let the torque converter come away from the 'box as in doing so it can damage the pump inside the 'box. As you are changing the 'box it will have to come out later but in far more controlled conditions and held straight whilst doing so. The TC will need to be assembled carefully to your replacement 'box before fitting it. A question. On what are you basing your assumption that the 'box is dead? I only ask as there are many quirks with autos some of which can be fixed by removing the pan and making repairs or adjustments from there. Steve

Some facts you just can't argue with. Steve

I just downloaded that. Why did I do that when I no longer have windows let alone electric? How sad is that? Steve

Tend to agree but would the OP not have found the lever flapping in the breeze when he removed the slave or is it more subtle than that? Steve

Now the Dakar has jumped all the hurdles of SVA, MOT, DVLA and is sporting its new registration, thoughts can now go on the engine. 3.5 efi….uses water….oil light stays on at tickover…has always had a sort of ‘beat’ to the engine note as if one cylinder is not performing fully. And finally it has not quite got the guts for the 33” wheels. So, of the other V8 engines (no I don’t want a diseasel) which would be a straight bolt in bearing in mind I plan to install Megasquirt if required thereby eliminating any ECU issues? And finally has anyone got one? Many thanks Steve

So to recap. Noise not present when just reving the engine? Noise when under load? I'm going to put a side bet on flex plate. Steve

Sorry no. Just assumed they would be available as they seem to do studs for pretty much anything. Steve

Your problem will be the female fitting taking the fixed pipe onto the flexi. What will happen is it will be seized onto the pipe so as you undo it from the flexi it will just twist the pipe and break it. OK so plan for it. Get a pair of spanners and undo the locknut holding the flexi into the bracket. Now the flexi is free to rotate hold the female union still and try to undo the flexi from it. Once it is moving you can see if the union will rotate on the pipe. If it does then fine. If not cut through the flexi and continue unscrewing it from the union. Once the flexi is off you can gently work on rotating and rocking the union on the end of the pipe to free it off. No guarantees are offered and you may still break the pipe but it is your best shot. If yours is the same as my 87RRC then the pipe to the rear is not one piece as there is an inline joint under the drivers feet. As said before these are safety critical issues and you may need the balls to accept that the job is perhaps beyond your capabilities. From your earlier posts I doubt this to be the case but.... Steve

I have no problem with using wire thread inserts (Helicoil trade name) in most situations but head bolts are tightened close to the limits of the bolts (and beyond in the case of stretch bolts) which is not a good place to be with an insert. You have no real choice other than to use them but I would invest a little more and fit a set of ARP studs, locking them in place with Loctite. This then moves the torque loads to the stud/nut interface leaving the insert to only deal with tension. Steve

If you use the chassis (unmodified) and bits from that donor you will keep the reg. If the chassis is modified DVLA will allocate a new chassis number. If you then use two major items from the donor you will get an age related reg. If it is a pile of bits then a Q. Both DVLA and VOSA said that a 'Modified' chassis could be anything. Even down to moving an engine mount. Steve

Never mind the wires......the edges can take nasty chunks out of your arm as well. Steve