Jon W

Haven't got a clue, I put one one mine when I had the pump off to do the shaft seal. Put it all back together and it is more responsive, and also smoother when above 2.5k revs which is nice. But unsure whether the responsiveness and power was due to be having adjusted settings slightly without meaning to, or if it is due to the ring.

3 Washers which equates to about 6-7mm

I built mine up front pieces on my Richards chassis and have washers packing up the gap and to get the doors lined up and bulkhead at the correct angle. Have you loosened the bulkhead brackets at the front which bolt to the chassis. Excuse the grinning flintstones idiot

Interesting your thoughts on the Toyo open country MTs, a lot of people have been raving about them, and I was looking at a set of these in 285 or 255 as my next tyre as by bfg km2 are past their best now and these looked better value as I don't do the road miles to warrant the BFGs, they will probably perish before they wear out.

I have the x eng pedal lock and didn't realise that when locked it put pressure on the brake pedal, until I was working on it and tried to spin the wheel, I though the brakes had seized on. But am very happy that it does as it means it will be harder to tow away even if they did remove the propshaft. The only way they can do it is really drag it or lift it. Battery cut off helps as you can lock the battery box. The gear stick locks I think only has some benefit in that it would inhibit someone driving it away, but if you have a pedal lock you have already immbolised the pedals. If just using the gearstick lock they could remove props and tow it quite easily. Optimill steering wheel and lock look good as will make it difficult to steer.

Have a look at https://dixonfabrication.co.uk he has a stealth bumper which sits similar. The pictures on the website aren’t very good, have a look on his Facebook page. Available for any type of winch or custom spec. I have ordered one galvanised and am just waiting delivery so I can’t comment yet on quality.

Out of interest why is the bleed hole a reduced diameter? What does this help with? When I did my V8 conversion in my series I ran without this for a while until the radiator was modified, think it ran cooler once fitted.

The core is a stronger core, more like you would get out of industrial machines, basically the fins won't fold flat as soon as you touch them like a normal radiator does. So if it gets packed with mud/dirt it can be washed easily/hosed out. But I am unsure if this has reduced its cooling efficiency at all. Stacking rads in theory would cause a problem but if designed well and as long as the fan is pulling air through them. Just l, it should cause any issue just look at the amount of radiators in the front of a tractor now days. and the main engine radiator is the last one to receive air

Seems strange the tgv doesnt use the oil cooler as was most applications would of had the 300 tdi radiator which had it incorporated anyway. Is it just blocked off on your rad? could it be connected up to see if there is any difference? Waiting to get shot down in flames here, but have you checked the viscous fan is working properly and locking up when hot? as they will shift a lot of air when they need to. You mention parts changed but haven't mentioned this I don't think? TGV do get hot so additional coolant capacity whether that is from thicker core (land rovers normal way of improving cooling well it was in series land rovers anyway) or a larger surface area, is going to help. I have a double core Intercooler and a standard size radiator (built with a heavy duty core so it can be washed out easily) on my 200tdi, i chose this as mine is a discovery conversion so has an electric fan rather than viscous. Or go with a V8 radiator or NAD or old turbo diesel radiator and put the intercooler pipes through the wing and have a front mount intercooler.

I have standard britpart shocks on my parabolic spring and the ride is horrendous. So had a measure of shock lengths fully closed, extended and where they sit at current ride height. Here are my findings and probably why most people recommend putting extended gas shock on with parabolics: Rear shocks fully extended 20inch fully closed 13inch height at resting position 17.5inch (so am only getting 2.5inch of travel before they top out) Front is even worse 16.25inch fully extended Fully closed 11 inch 15inch at rest (1.25inch of drop before shock tops out) Some people recommend the 1ton front shocks up front as they are a more suitable length or +2inch procomp shocks My springs were the britpart/ paddocks that were available about 5 years ago, to hard for my 88inch V8 truck cab to be honest. Can't remember how many leaves 2 front maybe 3 rear? Hope that helps Jon

@darthdickyhas a 2.8tgv on an autobox and can confirm that they do get hot going up hill. As seen by movement on a proper vdo gauge. His has an alisport rad in it not sure on the size though as he has a alisport intercooler but not the front mounted type (has an 8274 winch in the way). TD5 rad could be an option but are the pipes going to cause problems due to positioning? I think they are quite a good rad as standard and a lot of the cummins conversions use this rad setup.

Back to your alignment issues. Is the gearbox crossmember in place? If not it may be worth putting this back in, as I have heard that things can spread with the weight a bit and hence the bulkhead outriggers don't line up with the bulkhead. Otherwise take the front wing off and it may be a case of ratchet straps and brute force to line things up Hate to tell you this but "Even had to get those annoying wee brake lines that go from the caliper to the bracket at the end of the flexi hose which are £20 each on a TD5, not that I'm bitter of course..." you can get away without these and just get brake hoses with a banjo which connect straight to the caliper which makes doing wheel bearing and other jobs so much easier. Good luck

When you have the van sizes sorted and cnc templates you could produce x-eng self build camper an kits. There is a big market for self build camper vans at the moment, but appreciate your time is probably rather taken up by your other work already

Yer it wasn’t the best idea but is the easiest way of getting diesel through. Just make sure you have something nice to drink after. Diesel tastes disgusting!

When reinstalling mine after my chassis rebuild, I sicked some fuel up the pipe to help it get going as know they have a habit of going into lockout mode if they detect no fuel, but with the instruction manual it was a case of pressing a few buttons to reset. My exhaust exits behind the body crossmember but my intake pipe is routed into my battery box to avoid taking in water from puddles and when wading. I could do with a silencer on my exhaust as it is noisy in the mornings

Can agree with that, the D2 I had for towing was sucking up a lot of time and resources, as nice as it was to drive it was horrible to work on compared to my 90. Now just got the 90 at home and lockdown has meant I have managed to get a lot of jobs done as I can’t go anywhere or do anything else and also means I can have the 90 in a non mobile state for a period of time if needs be. The series 2 V8 in the garage on the other hand I have lost enthusiasm for and has not been touched in over a year and is getting buried in junk. I need to give it to someone who knows V8s and get them to get it running properly as I have done what I can to it. Then may sell it or it may continue as a garage ornament. It took 5 years to get back on the road and hasn’t done much since. But basically the 90 does everything better so I use that most of the time. So know how you feel about enthusiasm with projects it does come and go depending on their current state. A road going project does mean you can enjoy it while making progress. Non road worthy projects I have found get to a point where you think why do I bother.

Yer with 1994 being the change over year no one would really know if its meant to be a 2 or 300. It looks like it has been a properly done conversion. The 300 mounts are a lot better than the 200 in terms of damping so I would go with a 300 chassis

I would suggest a few loads of road plannings would save you a lot of hassle in the future and probably work out cheaper, if you want to get access in and out of the workshop. Saves a lot of winching and churned up grass.

Yer swapped all mine when I did my rebuild and although expensive for a few rubber blocks it was well worth it and really improved things. Just got to get my exhaust mounts to be more flexible now to match so that the vibrations from that don't come through the body.

Have you got the old pin still? Try putting that back in with it facing the front of the vehicle so the fuel pins gets most travel. Then see how it goes. If it solves your issues to will know it is the boost pin setup is what you need to play around with and the preload of that.

Is it a defender tdi or a dicvoery tdi engine? Where you have the boost gauge plumbed in it is showing what the turbo is giving out but not what the inlet will be receiving. You could have a boost leak or collapsed pipe somewhere. I have mine on my discovery tdi engine plumbed into the inlet plenum so you can see what it is actually getting and then will know if it is leaking anywhere Only thing I have done on mine is twist the standard pin and put a bigger intercooler and it goes much better. The pins you can buy require more setting up and the plastic spacer adjusting sometime to get them to work properly Hope that is of some help Jon

Haven’t a clue about the regulations but my friend has done this with his 90s. Not sure I like the blanked look up top though

Looks like the driver was having a whale of a time! ..... sorry couldn’t resist, I’m surprised no one else had said it already

Shropshire galvanisers in Oswestry were Very good with my bulkhead and chatting to them they have lots of Land Rover parts going through

Tractol Paint seems quite good that I have used. Sand it hard, then maybe try spraying lots of light coats to get it to stick better. Primer 1st, then cheap topcoat. Yes hammerite is carp.