Jon W

I haven't let it get as far as boiling over, just gets hot on the gauge

Ok will do that then. Have put a lower temp stat in for the fan. Would the system be better with a header tank to increased capacity? Other option is to add a oil cooler to increase the cooling capacity, in theory cooler oil so less pressure on the cooling system? Jon

Just to bring this topic back up again, I have had the engine in and running for the last 9 months, not been too far in it as still sorting bits out as I go as it was a rush to get it road worthy for my Wedding. Now I am sorting through my snag list as I have free weekends. cooling is my main thing. I brought a series heavy duty 4 core rad and fitted that. With a temperature sender in the top hose with matched gauge. Bottom hose I have a x eng fan switch with a 14inch fan on the front of the rad. Now the engine runs fine above 30mph and stays at a good temp, but at slow speed temp soon gets up about 100c with the fan not cutting in until over 100c (fan switch is in the bottom hose on an 88c stat. I have just swapped this to try and get the fan to come in earlier. whilst I am about it I am wondering if I need to get another port soldered onto my rad, as it currently only has top hose and bottom hose. Expansion into overflow from the top rad cap. Should I add a port from the top of the intake manifold by the carbs? Pictures say a 1000 words so I have attached a picture. It is the pipe which is currently close off in the picture that i am concerned about and wondering if this will aid the cooling etc. Also the engine is running rich at the moment which won't help I know but get the cooling sorted before taking it to be tuned up properlY. any thoughts would be appreciated as I don't want to mess up a new rad when I don't need to. Thanks

Looks fantastic I would love to finally get a Land Rover fit enough to do a long trip somewhere that far a field from the uk and enjoy tracks like that. One day, one day....

Ebay??

Yer I know the chassis problems from my last one and this was about the 7th one I viewed, so it will be getting the full treatment when I get chance to clean it all up. I like and have used the built hamber product before. But may try some of the buzz weld external coating

How is it? I love it! My wife loves it which is a blessing and a curse as she keeps pinching it. But so far it seems a good weekend car for us, good for taking the dog out, bikes. Horse box once she buys one. need to fix the drivers window as that doesn't work and the rear wiper but I can pull parts off my old one. Fitted a tow bar at the weekend which involved dropping the rear gas tanks to get the bolts in through the chassis legs. but it wasn't too bad a job, there way enough slack to drop the tank onto the ground. Chassis seems quite solid which is good but I will be giving it a good rub down and coating this summer. V8 and auto is a great combo and can't seem to feel a difference on gas in terms of power. Darth dicky drove it and it wasn't as fast as he thought it would be so maybe the cams are a bit worn but it does what I want and I'm not too fussed about speed as I have a car for that. so this far I am happy with it but have only done about 300miles in it. Want to check a few more things over like gearbox oil condition, I have already changed the diff oil, and the engine oil is like new. probably won't be off roading this one like the last one, maybe a few lanes but I'm conscious of the gas tanks underneath and want to keep its road manners towing, so the lift kit and off road bits have been sold off my old one.So my series might get used for more off road duties, but that needs diffs putting in 1st It's a never ending cycle with land rovers

I would also be careful in Ireland as a friend who lives out there has said they have clamped down on commercial vehicles massively, and he is registered as working in agriculture, but if caught towing his boat (for leisure purposes), he would be fined and made to pay the normal vehicle tax rate apparently, so be careful with what you register as working as

I believe the d1 chassis all lines up except 2 of the body mounts, but then engine mounts etc would need sorting

Welll have sent a deposit to get it taken off eBay, picking it up tomorrow, hopefully it's the right decision!

Water is fine, oil had a tiny bit of white around the oil cap but I think that is a result of not being used much recently and didn't get any worse after a run

I am looking at a 2001 V8 discovery 2 4.0L with 125k miles on it. Not much history but seems to run well. Have head all about gaskets and slipped liners. So without knowing if the gaskets have been done or any other engine work is it likely to be on borrowed time? Or if it hasn't happen yet is it unlikely to happen if it hasn't happened already? Can anything be done to prolong its life? Or is it best to do preventative maintenance and get them change or is it opening a can of worms? Also is on lpg at the end of the day it's a £1600 motor do I just run it until I have problems with it and am I working unesscessarily? vehicle will be doing a bit of towing if this makes many odds? Thanks

Yer the Kia had been looked at as a possibility but I'm not over keen on them but granted it would do the job. jeep Cherokee and grand Cherokee seem cheap but is there a reason to avoid these? Apart from it's a jeep

Sound nice but £2k budget! Outdoor stop most of that. I know a horse box is £4K+ but buying that new, the ifor wiiliams don't really loose any money over a few years really, and most sell for what people originally paid for them 10 years ago

I'm in the market for a 4x4 tow barge. For my wife towing her horse about, so I'm open to suggestions. i currently have a Td5 disco which has terminal rot so will be sold or broken for parts as it has some good off road goodies on. No it was going to be an off road toy and tow vehicle, but I think it will be predominately used to tow and I will use my series for greenlaning etc. I would like another discovery but the all seem to be in a similar state especially in my price range. This will be a 4th vehicle as we both have company cars and I have a series to play on, so it is only going to do low mileage so fuel economy isn't a big issue and will sit on the drive most of the week. So have thought about Range Rover p38. But are they as bad as everyone makes out? I can spanner but not so keen on electrics. freelander? This will be capable of towing the 1 horse in the box, if she needs to take 2 horses she can borrow her dads disco 3. So a freelander could most of what we want it too. Not too keen on using the series for towing as it a bit more difficult for her to drive etc. open to ideas of other makes, please discuss Thanks Jon

Yes the 110 canvas was just a temporary measure for my wedding transport and did look a little high thinking about it. I only use it as truck cab at the moment but want to go full soft top but needed to make sure it could get in and out of its house Thanks

I currently have a truck cab on my series 2/3 and have about an inch of clearance when getting in and out of the garage. Putting the 3/4 canvas on the back from a defender 110 it will not fit and I have to remove the hood sticks. so my question is is a full soft top as tall? Or taller than the truck cab due to the slope of the roof? Would I need a canvas truck cab in order to keep the height down? Thanks Jon

In reply to the 1st post, Built hammer products are fantastic and very easy to use. I used them on the 90 and that has lasted well. Also on my camper and I may do the discovery if it doesn't rot off before I get chance to do it. The guy I brought the discovery from had applied hammerite spray on coating badly and it had locked moisture to it and is coming off in flakes so the chassis looks awful. Want to knock all the old coating off before re treating it.

2016 Started with selling my VW T4 converted camper, in a bid to help fund my wedding. Then finished my V8 Series rebuild, well I had it road worthy and MOT'ed 2 weeks before it was due to be the wedding car. It has been apart for 5 years before this. Now have a few bits still left to sort, such as tuning, getting hot, and getting 4wd working as front diff is blown. 2016 also saw me buy a Td5 discovery with remaining cash after the wedding, to use as a more useable toy for off road and now pulling the horse box around. Plans for 2017 Finish bits on the series and decided what to do with it now. Keep it? Sell it? Change anything on it? Lots of Off roading and Laning as I haven't had a working land rover for 6years Maintain the Td5 already has a long list of maintenance jobs to do, front brakes and some annoying niggles, decide if chassis will last a year or whether it is best to break it come MOT time. Use these vehicles to go to some amazing places! Jon

I'm in Ruthin north wales and would like to get out laning or a site somewher on 2nd Jan as bit tied up for the rest of the dates. Let me know if you find anything or want to meet up somewhere cheers Jon

I think it is Muddy millers which run the site you are thinking of. Never been there myself but would be interested to know what it is like as it is only down the road from me now

But is running it at 100C going to damage it? As I have hear that 85-90C is what they are meant to run at but it doesnt state where the temperature is taken. Thanks Jon

Just dragging this thread back up again. I have just got my series V8 back on the road. Carb V8 i have put a new 4 core rad in it so i know the rad is good. Looked at the thermostat and it appears to be a 74C thermostat. I have a 14inch push fan on the front of the rad, controlled by an x-eng switch in the bottom hose switching on at 88C and off at 83C. Running 30% antifreeze and a water wetter. Running the standard series overflow tank. I have the pipe at the top by the carb blanked off at present do I need to connect this or can I just bleed it? I have a new gauge with match sender in the top hose. Running this temperatures are fine when driving 30mph + and remain about 85-90C. If driving in 2nd or 3rd gear and below 30 it will soon heat up to 100C on the gauge. Like wise if stationary the temp will creap upto 100C at which point you will hear the fan kick in. The fan will run for a while and then cut in and out. The longer you leave it the longer the fan runs before cutting out, as I guess everything is warming up around it. I haven't let it get much hotter than this before stopping and switching off to let it cool or getting onto faster roads to increase air flow. My question is, is this getting too hot? as obviously it is being fed water which is 88C or 83C but kicking out hot water 100C so should I be worried or is it just where my gauge is? So should I put a lower temp switch in the bottom hose so the fan kicks in sooner to prevent it getting so hot. But I don't want it to be running whilst driving at a sensible speed. If so what temperature? Should I connect the pipe at the top?? I have a remote oil filter so am planning on putting an oil cooler on so that will be the next thing I think. I am just looking for easy quick fixes as am using it for a few small trips in the next couple of weeks. A 50 mile trip where I can keep the speed up so am not worried about it and then a couple of 3 mile runs as it is my wedding car in 12days time, so I think it will be fine as long as we keep an eye on it Thanks Jon

I haven't read the whole thread but I had one of these and it worked great on gas, 240v, drank batteries on 12v so I only used it while the engine was running. The other thing I did was to run it on an inverter whilst the engine was running as this seemed to get it cooler quicker than the 12v. I did have a few occasions when I thought it wasn't working on 240v in the house, but the solution was to give the whole fridge a good shake as it appeared to get a bit of an airlock in the system if it had been moved around or turned on when not quite level. Hope that helps Jon

Ok so here is where I am up to but am still stuck. The engine was originally set up with a power steering pump so hence 3 belts. 1 for waterpump, 1 driving power steering pump, and alternator driven off the power steering pump. as seen here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rover_V8_engine Now as I don't need the power steering pump i was planning on having the alternator mounted on the opposite side as seen here http://www.v8engines.com/engine-1.htm on the engine with the v belt setup. However having brought the brackets and the pulley for the alternator not line up, I brought another alternator incase it was that incorrect. However that hasn't helped, water pump and bottom pulley line up but the alternators still doesn't. See pics below Any help or suggestions? Really need to get this sorted as soon as possible Thanks