Jon W

Well on our one which it has an overload clutch on the PTO, this was wound right up and so the chain in the PTO snapped instead, and then there was no drive. Where as yours sounds like maybe the overload clutch is kicking in too quickly now and might need tightening up. Try having someone winch the Landrover up to a tree with the brakes on and listen to where the noise is coming from. This may not be the case at all but gives you something to look at at least . Jon

Think he meant the outside Ralph. er sorry I'm no use i don't have any pics Jon

Nope no particular attraction to the current truck, but MOT is up in November and I was either going to sell it and get what I can. Or break it and get more money as can take all my extras off it. I picked mine up for £1k last year with the idea of keepig it a year then moving it on or scrapping it as will have a company car next month. But would still like a truck of some sort and 90's are quite pricey. Mine had new bits on it beofre I got it like rad, cam belt etc and I have done wheel bearing some bushes, head gasket, and things along the way as they have broken etc. It needs a few jobs doing mechanically to make it spot on like swivels couple of bushes maybe tart the brakes up. But having seen this commercial body for sale I quite fancy having it as more of a camper overlander weekend thing, and that way I can use most of my bits and not have to buy much more. Yes I could weld mine up for the MOT but the body work is tatty and abused. And while I am waiting to do the swap and can gradually do the jobs that need doing on mine. But yes I could/ should just scrap mine and move all the bits onto another £1000 vehicle, but then I know this shell is in good condition Cheers Jon

Right sounds straight forward enough, with lifting equipment and a selection of spanners. As what I am currently thinking of a project to get a good working disco is .... would it be easy to roll my chassis engine etc. under a different body? Or put my engine gearboxes axles etc under this other disco which is a chassis and shell at the moment. However I think the engine mounts of the 200 and 300tdi might be different?? Cheers Jon

I am thinking of changing the body of my disco for something in much better condition and a slight change of track. Question is how much effort is it to swap the entire body over presuming that the correct lifting equipment is available? Forgot to say it is a series 1 discovery 300tdi shape, but mine has a 200tdi engine in it. How many bolts hold it on and are they easy to get to? Wiring can it just be disconnected?? Anything else I should be aware of? Cheers Jon

Had this before, so either don't have one or use freebies that companies give away. My brother found his one further down the car park as some kids had used it as a giant frizbe. Jon

If you want more travel on the rear and don't want it to wear out like Jonny joint, then have a look at the X arms that x-eng do, they allow a lot of travel and should last a long time on the road. Other than looking good, why not put a rear diff lock in, as others have said if you have too much travel then it can be unstable especially if it all comes from the rear and isn't balanced Just my 2p worth Jon

Try putting a self tapping screw into it, then use a claw hammer on the screw to leaver the seal out. Thats what I do when they are being a pain in the arse. Jon

Yer I got give one of these a while ago but can't use in my house as its a power shower so would knacker the pump most likely due to effecting the pressure. But may well dig it out for another project as was thinking of having a shower or footwash on my last camper. Cheers Jon

I did the gasket, the night before driving to muddy truckers, but didnt have time to do the tappets, so did them before driving home. That was however many months ago and it seems to be going ok. Still seems a bit flat there is no feeling of the turbo kicking in, it is just a smooth transition. But have tweaked the pump so low end is a lot better so it might just be that I have power low down now and not top end. Jon

Well I have first hand experience of the stuff, not my mothers brothers uncles sister used it once upon a time. If it is a rusty area then it works a treat, stick like s*** to a blanket, but on good metal yes it may peel off if the surface is smooth and not keyed properly. Can't remember where I got it from last time I used it. Just make sure the chassis is cleaned down well and degreased. My 90's chassis certainly hasn't been in any worse condition for it. It does state on the tin that you should put a top coat of chassis black over it so it doesn't degrade from UV rays or something like that. Cheers Jon

I have been very pleased with AF, mine is about £500 for TPFT for a tdi disco, mud tyres, snorkel, 24yr old 3 years no claims, can't remember what mileage I have down on it, but covers me third party on others peoples vehicles, which is good as most policies won't do that at my ages and especially not when on TPFT. Rang for a quote for my series 2 and with no no claims bonus they wanted £170 which I didn't think was too bad. Been very happy with the service so far, but do agree that admin charges can be a pain in the arse. Jon

Yep got her turning over, squirted all the oil and water out of the bores right over my neighbours drive, oh bugger, have tried to clean it up but think it will take more driveway cleaner, but need to be careful as its tarmac. Now just to figure out the wiring for the coil and plug leads, and hopefully she will move under her own power for the first time in 3 years. Jon

Right I finally have some bolts to put the starter back into my series. Have the positive wire on the back of the starter, thats nice and easy. However I have a earth which is attached to the gearbox crossmember but not to the engine yet. Now I presume this came off the bolts which hold the starter motor in place, as someone had stolen the starter motor so guess it was undone then. Can anyone confirm where this goes? Does it go bolt earth then starter. or bolt starter then earth between the starter and the bell housing? Also are there any other wires which go to the starter as there doesn't appear to be. Hope to get it turning over at least in the next few days and make sure it isn't seized, then I will worry about the wiring of the coil etc and the combination of plug leads Thanks Jon

Very nice, I wonder what it's history was, if used it to beat the living **** out of someone, or if it was pinched. Good work on the clear up though must be nice to see a difference when you finish. Jon

Mine sounded a bit funny like that when i had put it back together after doing the head gasket, the tappets were well out, but you would hear be able to hear this just by the horrible tappety sound which sounds like it will explode. So no help what so ever from me I'm afraid Jon

I used a sticker remover and some inddustrial type stuff to get the residue off after pealing them off. Then I just t-cut or the compound G3 which is rougher than t cut more like the trade stuff on the rest of the body work. You should find beautiful shiny paint work under the stickers and it is the rest than needs cutting to match. Jon

Nige sod the puma bonnet what about something like this instead http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-500-BHP-/250829141560?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item3a6694f638#ht_500wt_1156 . Afraid he may have a few more ponies in the shed than you are going to though. Just to up the stakes a bit Jon

Ok I tried M10's that I had lying around and they didn't work, so will go with 3/8th I guess they don't need to be that long??? CHeers Jon

Right am going to try and get my series running this week. The starter was missing when I got it and so were the studs or bolts which attach it to the bell housing. Does anyone know what size these are?? Can I just put bolts in as it seem like the bell housing it threaded?/ Cheers Jon

Well it is here. Already taken the roof rack off it so it doesn't look so big and imposing to annoy the neighbours. Now the Starter Motor I have has no bolts. How are the attached on a 2.25 petrol?? I tried some M10 bolts but it appears the bell housing is threaded, were these originally studs that have come out when someone nicked the starter? Or just some form of imperial bolt?? Pics to follow but can't be arsed at the moment as can't remember how to do them Jon

Yer will try an get some up. I know I probably shouldn't have brought this but it was a good price and will be perfect if it could have been a year down the line but can always stick it away for a year if the worse comes to the worst. Cheers Jon

Right my new toy arrives tonight, its a 1960 series 2 with a series 3 bulkhead and wings. She has been sat for about 4 year but has various new bits in the mean time. Starter, rad, fuel tank, alternator as was my mates idea to get it running but now brought a running one to use. Chassis is sound as has all been welded and so is bulkhead. My plans are get it on the drive way. Put starter motor on it. Set up the dizzy as the timing it not right as dizzy had been removed at somepoint. Fiddle a bit, drain coolant and refil then try and fire her up. Then will check over the brakes etc. Grease props, check oil and replace where necessary. Any bits for an MOT then use her and see what else needs doing. Chassis could do with a lick of paint to freshen it up but that is nice and easy. Body is hand painter brown so will gradually rub that back and then decide what colour to paint it. What have I forgotten then?? any anything else I should do??

Right I will keep my eye out for a cheap set of wheels and tyres then as doesn't sounds like it will be a great idea to fit then plus they will look carp. Cheers Jon

Right I have got my hands on a 1960 series 2, which has been stood for a while so the tyres are perished. I want to get this on the road as quick as possible, and in my shed have a spare set of discovery 1 alloy wheels. Will these fit on the series so I can get it MOT'ed and on the road? I know that they mat fit on the drum braked axle of a 90 with centre caps removed. Cheers Jon