mickeyw

Were the pinch bolts done up tight, all 4 of them? If not they will allow play between the UJs and the shaft splines on the upper column, lower column or steering box. Normally the lower UJ just goes tight, as it seems to catch more of the crud and wet than the upper joint, resulting in a notchy feel, or tight spots as you turn the wheel.

Si, maybe you can wear a spy cam on your collar or something. A video of your encounter with this character would make amusing viewing I believe

<pedant mode> While one mills with a milling machine, one turns with a lathe </pedant mode> But good suggestion though

I drove the Dartmoor lanes 10 years ago. They are VERY narrow many of them. Zuks were OK, Landies rather tight (I had to climb out of my sunroof on one track), and the TLC was left parked at the end of the lane for later collection Exmoor was really good too, but NERC has put almost all of that out of reach

So it runs OK ish with clean plugs, not really the plugs that are the problem then. If you can keep the plugs clean (by sorting out the mixture) it will no doubt run OK. O2 sensors may or may not have been fooked before, but I bet they are now with that much much sent their way. I guess it's a game of check every engine sensor and its connector is sound. Is there an EFI troubleshooting guide same as the one for hotwire systems? I suppose maybe not, as that is what the testbook connection is meant for.

Definitely ^^^

Colin, are you running open or closed loop? Just looking for a stepper motor mixture control in your photo. That's a nice tidy engine bay. Pretty sure Quagmire runs MS & LPG, maybe he'll be along soon.

YRM do them

Morten, irrespective of bellhousing length, the transfer boxes are in the same place, and therefore the main box is too. There is one tunnel for LT77 which is small and narrow, another unique to the LT85 (much wider and dips down narrow at the back), then the R380 (wide over its entire length). The shifter opening on the R380 is a good 50mm further forward than the LT85. This is to suit the positioning of the transfer and main gear levers on each box.

If it makes any odds to you, the gear shift on the LT85 is further aft than LT77 and R380. The LT85 tunnel is rather different.

Ah, OK. Thanks for that Ralph. I was only going by what I've seen on the packets, I.e. 55w OK for road use, 100w for off road use only.

Pretty sure 55w is legal limit for H3 lamps in spots

Ralph, I already have a relay in circuit. I think my welding cable wiring might be OK without one, Ross, the lamps I have are switched to come on with main beam, and being 100w x 2 aren't strictly legal anyway. HID though, hadn't thought of them, must be big £ aren't though

Now the dark evenings are upon us again, I thought it was time to reconnect the spots on my 90. They are Ring Phazers that are many years old and have given good service in their time. Although the reflectors are grotty and the casing has rusted through the still make a worthwhile addition to the halogen headlights. Alas these are NLA. I feel it is now time to spend a few pennies on a new set. I don't want to spend big bucks when they could get smashed off road. The bay seems to have a fairly limited choice at the moment. What are you all using at the lower end of the price range? Requirements: Round, 7" max ( to fit between winch & a-bar) Man enough for 100W bulbs without melting Not too spendy

Good news then Ross. I must say from all the invoice it has clearly had a lot of new parts. Looking forward to the pictures.

Glad you said that Nige. I was going to say the same

I am guessing you didn't get an ECU with it?

The item you linked to suggests 35 seconds to empty the can! That is NOT slow. I have seen one used, it pressurises the can, which IMO isn't quite a syphon principle. The problems I witnessed were to do with getting a good seal around the spout of the Jerrican. It seemed rather too easy for my liking to have fuel spraying all over the place

The important thing with these bolts is to start off with the correct size and type of spanner. This is assuming a previous owner hasn't mangled them for you. The 9/16" bi-hex ring spanner is your friend here. Sometimes it is possible to get a 14mm to fit, it does vary, but you want the best fit possible so I always try both. Next you want to apply force in a way that won't encourage the spanner to jump off. The bolts are always far too tight to undo with a standard length ring spanner, and I used to use No.1 tool to help. This is not ideal as the ring spanner tends to want to slip or just ruin the head of the bolt. Options to multiply torque can be as simple as a large pipe that fits over the spanner, thus increasing leverage. Alternatively you can make up a tool specific for the job I don't have a photo to hand, but it was based around SimonR's spanner torque extender. This does the job extremely well, and can be used to tighten the bolts on reassembly. However I think the best option to remove a badly damaged bolt will either be a hacksaw (if you have the patience), or a grinder with 1mm cutting disk. Gloves, eye protection etc are all recommended for both methods.

When the engine becomes heavily clagged up the followers stop revolving the way they should, and this can give such a result. Also the followers becomes dished as they wear, and this will reduce lift. Have you had a look at them?

So we can expect to see them on the bay very soon, advertised as shop soiled/ new take off, or similar, and heavily discounted to 90% of new price, lol. Some people.....

Love it

With that kind of reception, I think if I were in his position I'd have flashed the cash on my way out, just to let the salesman know what he'd just missed out on... before I went to the next nearest dealership. Sometimes appearances can cloud your judgement....reminds me of the time I saw a McMerc SLR in the Warwick services ages back... the chap who got out was the scruffiest chap ever, more so that me

Careful Jon White - he might ban you What about moving The lights? Coat on, just closing the door...

Thanks for the offer Task. Last night I found v.1.10.4 apk on t'web, which is a version newer than someone else offered me. I also think it was the current version when it went offline. PM me if you'd like to know where I found it, I don't want to post a link on here and get the forum in trouble.