LandyManLuke

As Fridge said, just because there's no play, doesn't mean the UJs are clear. A friend had this exact same problem, wd40 cured it for a day or two, new UJs solved it completely.

Yup, it folds up to reveal the nut.

Rather than colours, the position of the terminals are more relevant. The two terminals close together are F1 and F2. the terminal on its own is A. If the motor spins the wrong way to what you'd like, swap F1 and F2.

We've already worked out that the four lights will be drawing 18.3A, so you need a cable capable of 20A plus. 2.5mm^2 is suitable for that current draw, however 4mm^2 will give less voltage drop over the length of the wire and is a better choice. If using two relays, you could run two 1.5mm^2 wires, or better, two 2.5mm^2 wires, to avoid as much voltage drop. Remember to run a decent earth back to the battery too. There's no harm in using bigger cable, there are a lot of downsides to using cable that's too small- higher resistance means dimmer lights, and warm cables. Given the choice, always go up in cable size, rather than down.

I trimmed the shroud as per my page here. Yup.

I have the same fan, with the same motor, though i mounted it slightly differently, the middle terminal is a sense coil, it produces 12v when the fan is spinning. I have the X-therm in the bottom hose, the thinking being I want the fan to come on when the radiator's not keeping up and providing enough cooling - there doens't seem to be much point turning the fan on just because the engine's pumping out hot water, if the radiator is quite happily cooling that water without any forced air flow. Works for me.

Good to hear.

It's up to you, a 30A relay will be up to it, there's no particular reason to use two. I have two, simply so i can switch inside and outside pairs, as they have different lenses on them. As long as the relay is suitably rated i see no other (simple) reason to use two. Make sure you use suitable fuses (10A) and the proper sized wiring.

Interesting. They're happy to sell direct, for less. slightly defies the point though if what you claim is true.

Also, i've not shown a dash tell-tale, which should be wired in to the same switching feed that goes to the relays.

The cubby boxes, rock sliders and bumpers are/were made by W V A holdings in Bradford.

Here's the diagram for two relays and four lights, also showing how you could use an on-off-on switch as suggested in your other thread.

four lights @ 55w each = 220W. 220/12 = 18.3 A which is a bit close for a 20A relay, a 30A relay would be fine though. Either source a 30A relay, or use two 20A relays. The wiring remains essential the same, just in duplicate. the two low-current switching wires will just go to the one switch. Diagram to follow.

I'd take the wire for powering the lights straight from the battery, that way you know it is 100% up to the job, and you can easily fit a fuse in the battery box.

Memory Map on an ITX board PC, built in, with 8" touchscreen.

Not true. Anyway, on with the thread.

Drifting OT, but have you first hand experience of the Champion hydraulic unit? I'm looking at Milemarkers which seem more robust than the champion. A lot of people have good things to say about Superwinch, and plenty of bad things to say about cheap chinese copies. I think the important question is what do you want the winch for? play days? utility? challenge? Hydraulic all the way though...

Looks nice. Do your self a favour and plumb in your main air line to your regulator/water seperator to a decent 1/2" connection on the tank, rather than the 1/4" near the pressure switch, where a lot of DIY compressors have their regulator. With high-demand tools that are run for a long time, like an air ratchet or air saw, the tank just buys you time between the pump kicking in and out. At 10CFM it shouldn't take long to refill. I've got 300L of air and that holds up to fairly long duration use of the air-saw, so I reckon 150 will be good for most things. Sand/grit blasting takes a lot of air, ask Roger. 150L/10CFM will be probably be ok for short jobs if you're happy to wait now and again for the pump to cool down and the tank to fill. hot (thus moist) air is not got for blasting. Overall, I'd say it'd be a nice bit of kit.

I've used 0.8mm for everything so far. 0.6 seems to be prefered for body panels. I've got some 1mm ali wire to try, should be interesting.

If that's your budget, and it's for 'small stuff'. Clarke is the best choice. No need to buy a sledge hammer to crack a walnut, as long as you're content with walnuts.

Depends how hard-wearing and long living you want them, but i've got a couple of these in the back of the 90, used for storing tools, spares, recovery gear etc. They're no where near as strong as the other options above, but they're not bad either.

Clarke are the best all-round little machines out there, but they are just that - little machines. One bonus is you can get spares, IF you go to the right place. As Nige said, what do you want it to do? I spent ages (years) researching this, and have just bought a Portamig 211 (MigTigArc sell them, but they're more expensive than where i got mine from). There is also a Portamig 181 which might be more suited to what you want. You will struggle to find another welder that will beat the current span, number of voltage settings and duty cycle for the price of a Portamig, they're made in York, too. Avoid SIP like the plague, especially specific units, unless you want to be fiddling with the wire feed unit all day long. Have a look on www.mig-welding.co.uk, the forum is really helpful, I've learnt a lot from there.

yuh i was amazed at how heavy the back doors were, glad they're not going back on, shame i need to keep the front doors, they might go on a diet plan.

I've driven one off-road, and been driven in one on-road (LR-Ex are ageist, only 25+ insurance for road driving) and it was doing just fine on the black stuff. I'd have one!

higher mounts are the only real answer for more articulation.