LandyManLuke

Dim-dip relay. keep hold of that picture, it'll be perfect for explaining to people what they need/want to look for when they're dim-dip stops working!

centre diff, one wheel up on the curb, off you go. easy. let the tyre down if it gets wedged in. looks like fun.

brand new 12k Milemarker for about 360 sterling, plus VAT, tax and carriage interest you? might as well do the job once and do it properly?

2.5" to 3.5" HD cable adapter is about 3 quid, IIRC.

oooo Spam, from the website owner/writer/developer. every post (4, over however long) links back to the same site.

It's nice to see other people mentioning a VSR. I've had one fitted to the 90 for about 3 years now, and it works faultlessly. I don't reckon they'd like a winch, or work well with one, but that's no bother here . Like Matt said, you could wire it with an 'overide' switch for jump starting yourself, if you wanted that ability at the flick of a switch, the few times i've needed to do that i've just swapped the leads over on the batteries. Other than that, a VSR just gets on and does it job. Unlike a 'dumb' relay, a VSR won't close until the engine battery is charged, which is a good thing. no stupid LED bar graphs no current drain when the engine is off (ok, mA, just enough to run a chip) easy wiring - a high current wire to each battery +ve, and a small earth. that's it. the BEP marine unit is potted, so 100% waterproof, mine's been waded and is fine.

Screwfix and Axminster Tools sell them, or do a google products search for 'cone drill' rather than saw etc.

I've met Rog (Istruggle2gate11) and Dan (Dirty Diesel) briefly at kirton, Fridge, ProtoPrincess & Jez @ Billing, SiR and GBMUD at shows, Mike and Margaret (mmgemini) and Muddy, through another forum and RogerBarton, who lives about 3 roads down from me.

The CD player in the 90 is an MP3 CD player, and doesn't skip. Also have a 3.5mm Jack for the ITX PC and touchscreen, which has a few thousand tracks on, or the MP3 player if the PC ever decides to break. The rangie's going to have to have something in the roof.

Nice work. These pictures could almost be of my project RR in the garage downstairs, this week i have been doing almost exactly the same repairs, except there's a lot less body on mine to repair, as i'm not keeping it.

FWIW, 255/85R16 on modulars, have a better turning circle than on wolf rims due to the offset. I've used both on my 90 and noticed the difference.

If you use a shackle, you're adding another link to the line, which is adding a potential failure point. The fact that the failure point is a big lump of metal is not good, especially if it goes airbourne towards a vehicle, or person.

You said it originally Mike, i just took your advice

A wire brush wheel in an angle grinder is great for cleaning the chassis up, it works very well. worth wearing gloves and eye protection though, and a mask if you're in an enclosed space. I paint the chassis. Red oxide, then a couple of coats of Wickes straight-to-metal paint. its not all-singing all-dancing but it's 7 quid a tin and has lasted well on my 90.

No, take the earth back to the battery, if you want to do the job properly.

I just pass the strop through the eye of the tow rope, before shackling the ends to the recovery points. No extra link, no extra weight to go anywhere.

3m is a lot better length. this length pulls more, and squeezes the chassis rails less.

the video shows a bloke in a cab, with a shiney wheel, joystick, and buttons.

JATE rings are probably the easiest recovery points to add, though make sure you connect your strop/rope/birdle/etc before getting stuck in mud.... Steering guards with recovery eyes put the eye in a better place, I have a welded steel guards with eyes on the 90.

The steering system on it must be pretty funky. must be quite a bit of control hardware & software on board.

Never had a problem with nylocs, on LRs or boats.

It can and has been done by at least a few people on here, the centre of the wheel is cut out, and welded back in the other way round, so the nut cones are the right way round.

This PDF from the Carling website should tell you all you need to know. the key should explain things if not just ask.

do you have a circuit diagram for the Carling switch? AFAIK, they're not simple, i believe some/all have a backlight, and an indicator light, as well as the switch itself. You could test the carling switch, using a multimeter, to find out which pins are which.

and pretty much impossible to avoid, at least on my dash.