LandyManLuke

Pictures of the bulkhead in my build thread here

Evening all, I've got to start thinking about how much i cut my bonnet down by, which means i've got to start thinking about what's going under it, principly the hydraulic pump. I've seen the pictures on here of Saley's solution, very nice, but a little long for what i'm after. Does anyone have any pictures of the TypeR pump mount and chain arrangement? Or, does anyone have any other ideas? PTO drive is off the cards, due to the problems with matching tyre speed, and the risk of me (likely) putting it into reverse when the pump's running. which i've heard is a bad idea. I'm also planning on OBA, so there might be an air-con compressor in the mix too, though this might not be too much of a problem as the bonnet is 3" higher than standard. Cheers Luke

the only way to stop blistering is to cut out all the corrosion, and insulate the steel from the aluminium, and repair. If you just cover it over, it'll come back again and again.

don't drop the mount, fit longer shocks! if anything, move the mount up. dropping the mount won't really get you any more travel, it'll just move what travel you have.

"Really Useful Boxes" for me too, they fit pretty well between the wheel boxes. A sheet of 1/4" ply is less than £15 quid, that and some batten, and some screws, and you're away, certainly at a prototyping level for starters anyway.

i got it from LSUK, (Lucarse's old Retail/truck fitters) but it's from the Durite catalogue, so i guess anywhere that stocks their bits. Can't find the invoice, ISTR it was somewhere between 10 and 15 quid.

Yup, and it's easily replacable if its got the regulator/brush pack on the back. In terms of sine and square waves, the LPG system probably works on the leading or trailing edge of the wave, so it won't make any (hardly) difference.

If you can get hold of a proper old 'teachers desk' type table, that's not a bad start, hell it's what i've got at the moment. it was free and it's sturdy.

Do a search, there's loads of information. FridgeFreezer is the man to ask really. performance and reliability are both better than the Lucas EFI. you also have the ability to tune a lot easier with meqasquirt.

Leave it outside and it'll rust and get weathered, and is also likely to be nicked. On the outside of the tub its going to get caught up on branches, and people. Inside, it's safe, dry, and secure, but does take up load space.

'tis indeed. Older alternators will produce a sine wave, the last few i've looked at have produced much more of a square wave, i presume this is due to the shape of the windings, i don't think there's anything else in there to shape the wave.

The main engine loom will come out in one piece, it runs from the engine to under the seat where the ECU is and should come out in one piece, it goes through a large grommet on the firewall. Why not meqasquirt it whilst you're at it?

Sorry Steve, my reply was to Project blue, rather than you.

compressors, as a rule, get warm. Air gets rather hot when you squash it. that's what the fins are for on the cylinders..

Engine - AFM - Atmosphere as it's pictured. 'Least that's how it was on my 3.9.

a diode's failed, yes it will have flattened the battery if left for long enough.

110 rear axle is a salisbury , disco is a rover axle. rover axles aren't up to the weight capabilities of a 110. 110 rear springs are larger diameter than 90/disco/rr.

I'd take the front off, then do seatbox, floor, bulkhead.

what's the matter with it? if the voltage is off, it's easy to change the regulator/brush pack. if the diodes have gone its more for an auto-sparky job.

A chance to try out your new TIG skills?

I made a tool to crimp cables, that fits in my vice. it works very well. it'd be easy to make if you have access to a welder, didn't take very long. The proper tools do a neater job, if you've only a few crimps to do it is worthwhile trying to find a friendly local garage or auto-sparky who will do them for you.

The FIA switch includes seperate NC and NO poles for disconnecting the fuel solenoid (or coil) from the alternator whilst also putting a load (ballast) across the alternator as it spins down, to prevent damaging it. I wouldn't wire in a 30A relay anywhere in the main battery feed, which carries hundreds of amps when the engine is being cranked.

The fuel solenoid wire is un-missable, its the only wire connected to the fuel pump. You probably want to find a grown-up to crimp your main battery cable. sticking it in a vice won't do. you could fill the lug full of solder and use a blow lamp, or make a crimping tool to fit in a vice, as i did, but it's probably easier to find someone with the proper ratchet hex crimping tool (which is £££ to buy)

you're right Dan.

The wire going to the stop solenoid is the one you want. If you can't trace it back, you'll need to work in the engine compartment. Should be possible to trace it though, with the dash out you can see the cables coming through the bulkhead.