LandyManLuke

The RNLI use tracks, but then they're using quite a substantial boat... The tractor unit is a mean bit of kit too, the hydraulic winch is huge

You lucky so-and-so!!!

Can't blame a guy for trying I am chuffed with that price, I was prepared to bid more. I've got the Rangie project to re-wire from scratch, so that's a few battery/starter/FIA crimps, as well as a new fuse/distro board, so i think it'll pay for itself rather quickly!! Just got to wait for it to arrive now.

IMHO, they look carp too, especially the shiny tubular ones

Have you tried adjusting the slack out of the PS belt?

You could do what you want with a few logic gates. I'm strapped for time too though, dissertation due monday. I'll have a think next week if i remember.

Don't forget the fridge compressor, that's an important part too I hardly use the 50L compressor.

the proper crimps are either soldered or crimped using an (expensive) hex crimper. Since i don't have anything to put enough heat into a big crimp, or enough money to buy a crimping tool (about a hundred quid i think, for a proper one), I made a crimping tool to use in a vice. Others have used pliers in a vice, or thin nails arranged in the vice jaws to press in to the lug. just squishing it in a vice won't work, you'll probably crack the terminal and even if it does hold the copper will work its way flat and then fall out.

charging him for an x-brake is unfair, IMHO - how would you feel if he did the same to you? some new shoes and an hour or so will see the problem fixed. if you really want an x-brake i think it'd be fair to make up the difference yourself. Like others have said, you don't need the handbrake to drive somewhere - i don't use the handbrake half the time it is working!

they're all just standard plumbing/gas fittings, the valves screw into the tanks, there's flexible hose on the 50L tank, the 300L tank goes straight to 15mm copper after the valve.

noggy, yes, the options range from latching relays, to latching flipflops, to just wacking a uC in there. Chris, the options are many and varied. If you decide on wanting to go down the route of some electronics, there's a few of us on here who can help you out.

Just an alternative, If it does it standing still, check the engine and gearbox earths, it could be earthing through the handbrake cable and melting it.

that looks cool San Francisco that is, not the S&M bit!

nope! climbing/sailing stuff. more importantly, it's purple.

It's not difficult to make the push buttons 'click to select' and use the rocker for each switch. you could make them push-engage, push-disengage and control multiple winches at the same time with the one rocker, that might get a bit confusing though. Either way, I'd add an LED display somewhere which told you which winch was connected to the rocker switch, to save second guessing. You could probably get it working using quite a few relays, but it'd be more elegant to get a bit of solid state logic in there.

If it's not the obvious things like tyres on the radius arms, or the prop UJs, there's not really anything else it could be. failing CVs make a pretty distinctive sound. As has been said, they sound worse when you've got some lock on. By the time you've stripped down the hub and swivel to look at the CV, you might as well replace it. FWIW, when my CVs failed, the sound was worse in reverse than going forward.

I've got a bosch 12v drill, I've given it some stick, but it's doing ok. it's light and very comfortable to use, but it's not up to the bigger jobs. I made an adapter to run it off a battery, which works well. Of course a 12v battery is at more than 12v most of the time, and the drill reflected that by getting warmer much quicker than on it's own battery power, when used for longer periods of time. My advice would be, if you want to power the drill of a vehicle, to get a 14.4v drill.

The plant sprayers work by pressurising the container, forcing whatever is in it out of the pipe. You just pump it up and pull the trigger. the oil doesn't come shooting out, but then you don't want that!! I must admit to getting bored of pumping, and fitting a tyre valve, but as it is i can always still pump it if i havn't got an air supply.

mine are lashed in, have been for about 3 years OK, it's not string, its 3mm 16-plait polyester, it's strong stuff.

Honestly Rog, you've completed ruined the safety and integrity of a perfectly legal tidy road going motor by turning the wheels inside out!!!

The thing with fans is the inductive surge at startup means you'll pop a fuse much higher than the continual draw of the fan. For example, my fan blows 30A fuses but will run on a 20A fuse once it's going.

If it was a safe and sensible practice, don't you think everyone would be doing it?

Weedkiller/plant watering sprayer take the spray nozzle off, put a bit of bendy hose on the end - Job done. It wasn't my idea, I borrowed it (and a sprayer), off Roger Barton

was the oily smoke coming from the hole near the turbo, or the breaker pipe? If its from the breather pipe, its got nothing to do with the turbo itself. As nick said it's a compression problem. rings or head. If smoke was coming out of the hole on the inlet pipework, it's going against the normal flow of air, so that's very strange indeed.

didn't read all of that link then?........ as it explains, you can use an LED if that's all you need/want, or you need to use a low current relay, or a transistor etc.