LandyManLuke

see This page on EP90.com, or searching on here throws up some posts about the RR sensor.

If it's that rotten its worth replacing it. Bulkheads are usually more rotten inside than out, once you've cut the top off you'll probably find more rust. If you do repair it, you'll probably have another area to repair in a year or so's time. A new TD5 bulkhead isn't extremely expensive, getting it galvanised in between adapting it to fit and putting everything back together is a good plan, if you can afford the time.

You could speak to adwest, they are the OEM supplier and will sell direct.

spot on Post it up once you're done

Can you draw the circuit out?

I know someone who's got a workshop like that, mills, lathes, MIG, a TIG the size of a fridge, saws, grinders, polishers, etc It's a very very nice place to be, I like it very much! B)

If the temperature has changed since you changed the pump, You changing the pump has the highest likelyhood of causing the change!!! Stopping the pump is one thing, seriously affecting the shape of the inside of the pump body, or flushing sealant round the engine is another, how much sealant did you use? did you let it go off properly before re-filling the system? Is the cooling system bled properly? A new pump shouldn't make the engine run hotter, if anything it should be the opposite. IMHO there's no point looking elsewhere for a fault when you've disturbed the system yourself.

mondeo fans fit well on 200tdi radiators.

sounds like you've got a short if it's blowing fuses. this post should be useful. A multimeter costs around a tenner and is worth its weight in gold.

Ok it's as far removed from a Landrover as you can get, but you've got to admire the amount of work that's gone in to this And he's still got the internal combustion engine, so it's not *quite* as cool as if it was 100% jet powered. top marks for effort though.

I'd go for fitting an electric fan, certainly a lot less hassle than trying to make a shroud, and the extra space in the engine bay is great for working on the engine.

Philip, well said!! Fridge is bang on with the philosophy of buying tools, rather than paying labour rates, in my opinion. I follow the same doctrine and it nearly always saves me money, or leaves me with a shiny tool to keep - both of which are a plus to me. The only thing that counts against you is time - then looking at other options is sometimes a must.

you're fighting a losing battle if you use 12v or, even worse, 240v, as you automatically drop efficiency in the conversion of mechanical energy > 12v >240v. Driving an automotive air con compressor off an engine powered belt has got to be the most efficient, and simplest way forward. I like the idea of modifying a heater matrix box to take the evaporator - there's not much room in a defender cab to fit the Landrover style aircon dash.

my bad, i was doing too many things at once! Yes, it should be the other way round, I've edited it now.

It was probably Les Henson's post, not White90s. credit where credit's due and all that. See if the movement disappears when the foot brake is held on - if it does, it's in the bearing. if not, look at the track rod end or the swivel pins. edit - i should stop trying to do too many things at once.

Why does it need a speed sensor? is it just to deterimine that the vehicle is moving or not? GPS will give speed info, so there's no direct need for it, unless it's for some sort of cross correlation.

If you're serious off road, push-button ones will just get pushed in to the door - which is why most challenge trucks have lift-up handles.

Is the pump you're using designed to suck? many are designed only to push - which is not usually a problem, as being in the tank itself no sucking is needed at all.

How far have you got now? I took the gearbox crossmember out to make things easier. I also removed the gearbox mounts from both the chassis and the box. I took the main gear stick off, it's no biggy, just make sure it sits on the splines the same way when you put it back. with the knob off the transfer box lever, and with it pushed forward it will fit under the seatbox front, but it's close. I just let the boxes down on to the floor, but it's possible to slide the boxes back and work in the gap, I think that's how Les does it in the archive post. edit: sorry Ralph, we posted at the same time

See this thread

I'd make lifting eyes rather than use a strop, saves damaging anything.

Most likely a slipping belt, especially if the problem went away quickly, as the belt dried.

You'll make a fair chunk of your money back by breaking it, if you've got the room to do so.

But the shed was nice and warm after laying down those nice long welds Looks nice

you should have three wires between the solenoids and the winch, F1, F2, and A.