LandyManLuke

Haha, you should see how they teach driving over here now then!

If you run a 12v motor on a high enough voltage, with a suitable flux polariser, the 'volts' and 'amps' will eventually change into 'oils' which will then drive the winch properly.

A good friend who runs a web design and site hosting company used to host his dns with/through 123reg, after the utter balls up a month or two ago, he told them to sod off and has set up his own DNS for his company's clients - who are also much happier with the level of service now, away from 123reg.

good old 123reg, they seem to be ballsing things up all over the place at the moment, glad i moved my DNS routing away from them. I had to get this link off someone via another forum - bit of pita for people who don't cross on other forums.

Yup, sometimes using genuine parts is required. The Coastguard Hilux is sourced through a commercial vehicle leasing setup, originally they specified it should go to the Toyota garage, which is way off our response 'patch' (40 mins), the local garage is good, and only 5 mins away. they had to agree to use only toyota parts but got the official servicing contract. Since that, my mother's Honda has been serviced there during the warranty period, again using genuine parts. The garage has a good relationship with the dealerships, they have no problem sourcing parts, and they're at good prices too. I think it definitely pays to find/stay with a good independant garage.

It's all fake Fridge compressors are good, i've got one feeding a 300L tank, i just need some more to keep up with demand!

I'm guessing a threadlock like loctitte is non conductive, but you never know. If you're working with things like body panels, that are painted, the paint will do the isolating quite nicely. normally the rust from steel cracks the paint, which lets the water in around the fitting etc. It's worth noting that stainless and aluminium are used together all over boats, which exist in a moist sea(salt) water environment, and they do ok.

Arrrggghhhh, there be a mighty storm a-brewing in this insy winsy tea cup!!! Are the two LR main dealers 7000 miles apart like you are? if so, isn't it possible that the design has just changed, and one is older stock than the other? LR will accept OEM modifications to parts, if they conform to their standard etc. hell it's probably an improvement if anything. Personally, it looks like a perfectly servicable water pump to me, i'd fit it and stop whinging.

see www.linitx.co.uk

See no reason why not, you'd just have permanent (Adjustable:)) intermittent wipe on the RWW. wouldn't be hard to wire up.

Nope, wrote my own.

Seems to be the best out there, apparently much much better than Autoroute, which will do 'turn right, turn left' but badly.

Don't buy anything. Leave it at home in the garage or shed where it won't go rusty and stop working (they do that). You don't need one day to day. Unless you really are driving off road every day. they're not the tool to change a tyre with.

Or a steering guard with built in recovery eyes.

If you're attached, a galv chassis is worth it - Mildred can live for practically forever then!

Confirmed, see here. Reckon they moved to the more standard dash bulb, the 509

It doesn't matter, as they're in parellel - if you're wiring them permanently in parallel. The two +ve are connected together, the two -ve are connected together, alternator/starter to the +ve, chassis/block to the -ve If you're using a split charge solenoid for winching, connect everything to the main battery +ve with only the solonoid between the battery positives. If you're using a split charge solenoid for engine-off current draw, starter/alternator to main battery, solenoid between the two, your loads on battery2 +ve.

Regardless of the specs, they do fail. whether that's due to G shock, being in a small (=hot) case or being in a dusty moist environment who knows. wrt a laptop for £330 or a second hand one for less, in my opinion you're paying for the small form factor, and accepting that that comes at the cost of performance. If you look at a £300 laptop they're huge, there are small laptops about but they're all £500+. A fully functional PDA costs a couple of hundred quid, you're paying for the size not the outright performance. It all depends on horses for courses, if you want a laptop size screen, you'll put up with the bulk. if you want a non-bulky solution this product fits the bill quite well, at a reasonable price.

In car PCs can range from a laptop on the passengers seat, powered off an inverter, right through to a built in 12v DC-DC powered PC with built in screen. What would you like explaining? the machine needs spec'ing up like any normal PC, then you need to decide what form you want the PC to take, though the spec will often depend on the form you choose. There's plenty of different paths people on here have taken to reach the same (or similar) end. If you ask specific questions you'll get answers from across the board i reckon. Mods/admin - is it time for a dedicated electronic equipment board? carPC/Laptop/software/GPS/CB/Nanocom etc?

If I were given the chance again, I'd buy the Long version. I'm 6'2 and my feet can touch the end quite easily.

About £200 (bit of discount IIRC), about 3 years ago, from Action Outdoors They're in Ipswich, i used to visit their shop in person a lot before I left home.

Who wears their backpack whilst putting their tent up?

I've got an 8" widescreen and that's perfectly veiwable, on or off road. Before, i had a 7" widescreen and that was viewable too. The only reason i changed was the 7" got nicked. That really is a good price (google found ~£220) for not only off road use, but at under a Kg, carrying around with you.

Erm, my inlaws.........