LandyManLuke

it's worth doing both, if one needs doing the other isn't going to be far behind. how long it takes will largely depend on what state the bolt heads are in.

why not just use the standard cable, and terminate it yourself, once you're outside the body work, or even buy a waterproof lead, for the outside, and cut the other end off, and re-make the internal connection. You can buy RG58 by the metre, and make up ends using whatever style/model conenctor you like.

This any use?

you want the wire that runs to the stop solenoid, it's the thin white wire that dissapears off through the bulkhead. trace it back from the solenoid to be sure you've got the right one.

However you mount it, you want good metal to metal contact between the outer part of the mount, and the vehicle earth. this means checking the connection to the roll cage, and also the cage to chassis mounts, for electrical conductivity. Being pedantic, and probably beyond your requirements; 'Earth' and 'Ground Plane' aren't the same thing. whilst creating a connection to earth is relatively easy, a ground plane takes more thought. Ideally, an aerial would be mounted on to a flat metal surface, of large area and uniform shape. A roof isn't bad if you mount the aerial in the middle. If you were to mount the aerial at either end of the roof, the shape of the roof/ground plane would shape the performance of the aerial in different directions. If you're using the roll cage, the above doesn't really apply apart from the fact the earth plane is far from perfect.

When you take the front door card off you'll see the levers. The lock barrel is keyed, and connected to a lever, which is held on with a small screw. there's also an orange (on the couple i've looked at, its been orange) washer. you can't undo the screw because the door internals are in the way, unless; you have a stubby screwdriver, or you drill a hole in the frame in line with the screw. I've used both methods with sucess. With the rear door, you need to insert a thin pin into a hole in the lock, whilst using the key to withdraw the old barrel.

30mm is pretty thick, the disco isolaters only add about 10mm.

You mean lower ratio. the Discovery hi range is a lower ratio (1.2) than a defender hi range (1.4) Hi range = low ratio Lo range = High ratio

battery cut-off cunning re-wiring of stop solenoid if all else fails, chain it down!

If all else fails remove a rear drive flange, only 5 bolts a side. handbrake won't stop you then. If you're going to tow it on the road, and still can't get the handbrake off, best remove the rear prop.

A proper FIA switch would solve the engine running-on problem. Most radios have a constant live and switched live supplies, i'd take the constant live straight to the battery, with a fuse. If you keep the switch in the earth line, you'll have to earth the radio to the battery seperately.

you can still wire them up like that though, or like this. Ignore the twin relay setup if you want to. the switch in the bottom left hand corner (on-off-on) means you can have the lights on independant of main beam.

Is that any use?

It's worth adding, it does depend on your driving style & preferences, it might be a good idea to try and find one to drive before you commit.

Low range is the same in both, so no problems off road there. the lower ratio (higher gearing) disco box will give you more relaxed road speeds, shouldn't have any problems unless you're running massive tyres or regularly pull heavy trailers etc.

I have a portamig welder and love it. I don't have a number for Portamig themselves, but I've sent you a PM with contact details of the guy i bought mine from. he'll be able to answer your questions or pass you onto someone who can.

Fair enough, did you increase the wire size to account for the voltage drop over the increased length? afterall, using relays is partly to counteract the voltage drop through the LR loom and the LR switch. I'd just unplug the wires, along with the other bits that have to come off if you want access to the front of the car.

You won't have any problems running wires along there, as long as you secure them well. it doesn't get hot enough to melt the insulation. using relays is a good idea, but if the original wiring is shorting to something or going open circuit, it'll still affect the relay in much the same way as it's currently affecting the lights.

why not across the front? much shorter wire run. which woes are you trying to overcome?

Sorry to hear that Si, you must be gutted. don't know what else to say.

I think you'll break the ply before anything else. an alternative tactic is to slacken (not remove!!) the nut, then sit in the drivers seat and give the wheel a good waggle and pull. removing the nut completely results in the steering wheel and your nose meeting forcefully.

Ideally across the battery, but there'll be a 12v wire behind the dash. it depends how pedantic you want to be.

WVA holdings who are also safari equip

D'oh, it should be resistor, not relay, one too many tinnies already, suprised im nit tyeping leik tish.

the last picture shows an angle that would mean only one wheel on the rollers at any one time. looks like the length of the roller section straight-on wouldn't be a problem for a 110?