errol209

SH605081L, they're UNF

^^^ wot Western said, plus check the bullet connectors behind the covers at the back of the load compartment, they corrode on occasion.

DO you mean what's the circuit? the coil generates the potential difference, with one end of the coil grounded. The distributor then connects the coil live to the appropriate plug (electrode positive), fat spark, flows to ground. You also get a spark between the rotor arm and the contacts, which is why people invented wasted spark (first fitted to 2CVs I think) (thinks - is this a trick question? better agree some ground rules before committing ) I have no experience of wasted spark systems personally, but the theory says - nothing works.

The coil generates a potential difference across its terminals, making one end negative relative to ground and the other is positive relative to ground, so a current flows from ground through the plug to the relatively negative end, and a current flows from the relatively positive coil end to ground through the other plug. So in the first plug the electrode is negative (backwards) and the other is positive (right way round). Tadaaaaaaaaaaa!

When any object moves through the air, it must push the air out of the way. As the air in front of the object makes way for it, the object moves forward, and an empty space is left behind. If the air is frictionless, then the "chunk" of air moves foward, and a very thin layer of air moves backwards over it. Air is pushed away from the front of the chunk, and it fills the space behind. If the air is frictionless, a "chunk" of air can keep moving forever without losing its shape. But real air has friction, and the chunk of moving air will be stirred as in the figure below. figure In the figure, as the air ahead of the red chunk is spread apart, it makes the air inside the red chunk spread apart too. As the red chunk moves forwards, its outer layer is dragged backwards. A central stream of air starts moving forward through the red chunk, and the chunk swirls inside. I claim my prize

A bit of thinking aloud (which may may not reach a valid point, or a point at all): The function of the spark plug is to provide a focussed point for an avalanche breakdown of the intervening gas (the air/petrol mixture). In doing so it inevitably gets hot, both from the spark and the ignition cycle itself. To get an avalanche you need volts, but a by-product is amps when the event happens. The 5,000 ohm resistor acts to limit volts when amps rises, damping the spark and therefore limiting the current drawn (in this case from the drive electronics). The rising temperature of the plug will cause the resistance of the resistor to rise, which won't affect the point at which the spark happens, but will quench the spark sooner. Heat will also affect the insulation between the plug core and metal body, but these are fancy ceramic good to a few 1000's of K, so this seems unlikely. That leaves the resistive element, which is also a lump of ceramic. All in all my guess would be mechanical failure of the ceramic insulator (it is quite brittle) under high heat and pressure leading to the centre electrode tracking or arcing to the body.

If you're prepared to take the tunnel cover off, there is a convinent plug / bolt in the top of the bellhousing, which is where mine attaches. Leaves the drain plug hole available. Timing cover - I think you can get inspection plates pre-fitted, but I just thickend it with a bit of sheet and tapped it for a 1/8 bsp 6mm push fit fitting. Both axles, both gear boxes, drum winch, bell housing and timing cover all come up to manifold on the bulkhead, then one line into the air intake via a fabricated jobbie and then up to the top of the snorkel, inside. I'll be taking some snaps at some point, I'll post some piccies.

A function of living next to a Land Rover owner - don't worry, they'll get curious / need a favour at soem point. I think it might be a spare pick-up point for something? At the risk of the neighbours calling the nice men in the clean white coats, is there one on the other side too? might be for additional sidelights?

Nah, that's faded red and black, for sidelights. Turn the sides on in the cab and put a meter across it - bet you a pound to forum funds I'm right

Which re-arranges nicely into: I think the buggy might be a wind up, seeing as this was unsold.

2000W? 2kW? Four par cans? Cor, you know how to live it up! In the dim and distant when I did the odd similar thing in a tent we always went for a 10 kVA genset, a) because you can tow them and b) straight watts of power only works on resistive loads, and hog roaster motors, dimmer racks, power amps etc. are all inductive or have funny phase angles and sudden changes in demand (a big genny will deal with crazy changes in load better, IMHO) As Mr F says, far better to err on the big side and use a bit more fuel. At work we used to use Aggreko, but I don't think they go down very small (but they were always quite good). Tell a lie a bit of Googling says they do 15kVA to 2.1MVA. I'll get my coat ...

TD5 means you should have wire 3. Sure it isn't the battery? What kind of voltage are you getting with the ign. on and a few lights switched on? <edit - that should be ign. on BUT ENGINE NOT RUNNING>

Absolutely sure it works? I know the odds of two not working are slim, but worth asking. Most things directly to do with the alternator aren't fused, and the maximum number of wires is five: 1. One or two big fat brown ones that go directly to the battery on most cars 2. One thin brown/black one which is the feed from / to the ignition warning bulb (I assume this lights up with the ign. on?) 3. One thin one (on newer alternators) which goes straight to the battery as well, for the battery voltage sensing function (don't have one so don't know the colour) 4. One thin one from the W terminal to a rev counter (could be any colour at all) If 1. falls off nothing charges at all. If 2. falls off (it won't self excite, so) nothing charges If 3. falls off the alternator will assume that the voltage it puts out is the battery voltage, so it should all still work If 4. falls off your rev counter reads zero. Interestingly, if you don't have the charge warning light resistor AND your charge warning light bulb goes then alternator won't work. Try taking the plug off the back of the alternator (be careful, battery feed at stonking potential current ), turn the ign. on and see what voltage readings you get (12v, 12v and more than nothing on the brown/black is good) You'll use the ignition system / stop solenoid, indicators and brake lights - more of a time thing than distance, but you will probably make it

Lock and grab handle not worth changing, but the brass "cheese" that screws to the door frame is probably worn and stepped, so worth getting a new one. Yes, your hinges are also probably shot, the newer model ones are better made, I hear, but a bit pricey. Get yourself some (M8) stainless bolts, as the bottom hinge ones are actually in the rear wheel arch (yuck) and probably one rusty mass. The glass and retainers will transfer with care. (don't forget to paint the door first - don't ask, just don't ask)

Yes, the middle lateral bar breaks at the wiper motor hole, allowing the water in. BTW, a Range Rover rear wiper motor isn't a bad replacement, just add three thickish washers on the inside to stop the arm fouling the spare wheel. The Rangie one is only £35 new as well. My door before I got started: Note that every weld is cracked!

Its a free forum ... Going so soon? was it something we said? Anyway, welcome to the forum Mr P**! -- POST AUTOMATICALLY EDITED FOR OFFENSIVE CONTENT --

It shouldn't do that! The steel frame has probably rusted and sheared around the lock and just under the middle hinge and will be far worse (as in more breaks) if you have door-mounted spare wheel. You can weld repair, but unless you are very very lucky you'll need a new door skin afterwards andthe result won't last as long as a new door anyway. I'd say replace it, Waxoyl the new one to death and hope!

And try HFH's sage advice in this post.

This is almost certainly the fault of the infamous ignition warning light resistor - search the forum, as there are many recent posts on it. A diode in the right place fixes the issue.

Having compared them in the flesh I'm not convinced, but at *cough* 44p *cough* its worth a punt. Watch this space folks ..

In order, Rear A-frame ball joint, rear A-frame bushes, trailing arm bushes. To find out which, park the car on a suitable surface, lie under it left to right on your back and push against the chassis with your feet, observing the above items. By changing sides and repeating you should be able to find the worn bit (it probably won't clonk, but you will be able to find relative movement by feel) If you do need new bushes etc., it may be worth checking the front end too. The Panhard Rod is easy - lie underneath and get SWMBO to wiggle the steering wheel (or vice versa )

Update: I connect the boost gauge to the vacuum pump, and according the the gauge (its more or less accurate about the turbo boost pressure) I got a reading of -1 bar! Therefore the 0.8 bar vacuum is precisely that; 0.8 bar below atmospheric minimum. I nearly lost my socks when I got the non-retrun valve off, so the servo is holding vacuum and the non-return valve works fine: I'm guessing its the valve and inlet filter (which is good, 'cos the overhaul kit is only £10) More news shortly. p.s. the joke in the previous post should have read: "That's what I love about this forum - 35% empirical / experience and 35% humourous irrelevance and 35% science!"

jcwcooper - I know, but then that's less money for essentials like steering gaurds MOG - they look fine are are solid under serious wiggling, but you make a good point DaveSIIA & Western - Ta, I'll be on the phone on Monday.

Having just got to the bottom of the MOT advisories list , does anyone know a source of TRE boots (I don't need the TRE). The series ones don't look they fit well. I need three ... Ta