errol209

Electronic flasher units normally only flash quickly when one of the bulbs has gone. If they're all working then maybe the flasher unit is stuffed. The brake lights could be the bulbs (swap one for a known good bulb to see) or a a dodgy wire or connection. Get your mate to hold the pedal down and see where you get a feed. The brake light wires are green/purple stripe. Did he ever see the lights working properly?

There may be a sticker on the back (handbrake) face. Otherwise you could count the teeth, or turn the input shaft and count the output side revolutions You'll need to get clear marks onto greasy bits either way.

White is the ignition line and plain red is the sidelight main curcuit, but I doubt that helps. The other colours (both top and bottom) might get us further too, as your photo is a bit blurred to tell

I know this is probably a daft question, but you did say Could it actually be a fault with the handbrake switch? I'll bet this is covered in mud and worse, under the car!

200 amps at mains voltage = typical power consumption of three residential houses, and about the peak output of a 2.5TD (I worked this out to see what I might do with a surplus TD engine, but the fuel consumption for an hours' running isn't clever )

That was my interpretation, because 0.8 bar or 9 psi below atmosphere over the area of the servo (94 square inches) gives about 854 pounds or 3.8kN at earth gravity! 0.2 bar or 2 psi gives about 214 pounds which is a shade more believable. That's what I love about this forum - 33% science, 33% empirical / experience and 34% humourous irrelevance!

In the bath playing with my duck last night I hit on the idea of using my turbo boost gauge and suitable bodge adapter to measure the pump vacuum, as I don't seem to get any assistance at all and I need to start elimimating problems. I suspect my problem is the servo unit though. Good luck to all!

It is indeed, and it's leaking through a gap between the driving flange and stub shaft, one or both of which are quire badly worn for this to happen. I'd suggest that the flange / stubstaft wear is allowing the CV to drift a little out of alignment, which may be causing your judder. The loose wheel bearing will have accelerated the wear. Replacement is the only answer, and you might as well do all the seals as your going to have to take the driving flange, stub axle and CV/half shaft out to do it. Also worth checking the other corners too. I'll bet there's a how-to on the technical forum ...

It'd be ok if you could demonstrate equivalent strength - some kind of fancy laminated glass? You'd also need wipers ...

Suspension bushes?

Bottom of this thread: Link 1 It has some advice, but there'll be an expert along shortly ...

The bulkhead mounting onto the bulkhead outrigger and the pedal boxes perhaps

Same here, and I've been meaning to ask if someone with a diesel 90 and a very good servo response could describe how much vacuum theirs produces in terms of discomfort level (of thumb over end of pipe, of course)? I can easily remove said digit with engine at mid revs, suggesting my vacuum pump aint! Update - I've just located the pump pressure spec in the WSM, and it says 0.8 bar. I'm guessing this means it generates .2 bar of vacuum below atmosphere?

Be careful with a 1986 blanking plug, because the little tabs on it will be very brittle, but you can get new ones if you ever take the gauge out again.

Axle propshaft(s) - sliding joints seized / worn, and universal joints seized / worn. Give the shafts a good shake / turn, the problem may be quite subtle. Not a proper Landy then

Not an urban myth (but only slightly related) is the tale of "Gimp", a trackworker of excessive shoe size in relation to his IQ. He was admitted to hospital with an itchy rash on his forearms. The doctor was puzzled to discover that the "rash" was in fact all scar tissue. More worrying was that a magnet stuck to his arm ... It transpired (under much questioning) that Gimp was in the habit of operating the 14" petrol disk cutters (used for cutting rails) without any PPE at all, and the constant shower of hot sparks landing on his arms had created the "rash" (of embedded grinder grit). It took over six months of smelly topical lotions and several visits to have his epdermis scraped before he re-emerged, pink, clean and minus most of his tattoos! (A related tale is of the two track welders, one of whom accidently played an oxy-propane cutting torch across the bald head of his mate, in the dark - you may now weep )

Yep, on a standard relay 30 is the 12V line from the fuse, 85 is earth, 86 is the feed from the switch and 87 goes to the load. A 30 A relay will easily handle 25Ax12V= 300W, 360W at most.

One 100W spot light will pull about 9 amps, and most automotive switches tend to be rated at 10 or 15 amps. If you try to switch a big load with a little switch too often you can end up welding the switch closed

You could use a "memory saver", they are sold to protect your radio memories when you take the main battery off, but they won't last long in use. Not an easy fix, but you could add a small rechargeable battery fed from the battery positive through a diode, and then feed the ECU / BECM (whatever a Freeloader has) through another diode (the diodes prevent your add-on battery and ECU / BECM supply trying to supply full starting current )

Thys, would you believe I had something related-sounding on the Skoda? I think there might be a bit of the starter circuit getting hot, close to the exhaust? On the Skoda it was the VNT control pipe deforming, which meant low boost at any speed Glad you're getting closer to finding your gemlin - keep us posted!

But at 92.5 wheelbase, it could have been a 90, but then where does the RR bit come from? Or is it just the V*N plate that's RR? You think that colour and death trap potential is better than a 2.5TD? Points decision for me. edit: think before you press add ...

Broken front or rear halfshaft? If it doesn't roll away with the handbrake on then its the front.

Can't do you quantities off top of my head, but check out the following list of part numbers. I think I've come across most of these doing up my 1988 90!

Hmm, that makes the instruction to drop the propshaft for towing / testing so easy to implement, doesn't it?

You'd be amazed what is still Whitworth, UNF, etc.