pat_pending

Indeed, most things are possible, it's the cost factor. Good lad is Barry, your other head's in good hands.

It doesn't look good. Get it over to T&L Engineering in Elstow (01234 352 418) they can test and possibly repair. It's who we use for machining work, highly recommended.

Is there enough room in the plastic end cap to just use a spacer to take up the distance between the hub and circlip? IIRC the Britpart halfshafts aren't bad. wouldn't trust that one though, once there's a twist, it ain't getting any better.

The windscreen aerials are rubbish, when I first fitted mine it was fine until I got down the road and the signal kept dropping out. I think it's due to the Defender screen being near vertical. Don't waste time trying, it'll never get any better. i replaced it with a stubby mag' mount one, stuck to the roof rack, £15 delivered from ebay, comes with 3mtrs of coax. Used the same type on the car and reception is perfect. And yes, Planet rock cranked up loud, drowns out a tdi

Drain the oil and examine for "party glitter". Also check prop uj's. The only way to properly do this is by dropping the props' and fully articulating the joints.

Easy to test if it's holding pressure in the slave. Pump the pedal a few times and release, then open the bleed nipple on the slave. If there's any retained pressure the fluid will spurt out.

There will be a starting point for all the settings, however that will assume a new or rebuilt pump is being set up. As Retroanaconda says, the pumps are set dynamically, once there's some wear in there, no two will be quite the same. Without the pump on a test bench you'd go round in circles doing trial and error. The biggest single improvement you can make to a higher mileage tdi is to get the pump and injectors overhauled properly.

You can monitor two batteries with one gauge by using a switch and a change over relay. It will obviously only display one battery at a time, you flick the switch to swap between batteries, but I used this method without problems when I had a split charge system. Minimal cost option.

How did you pay? If it was by credit card or paypal you are in a very strong position, contact them. I would not accept that, it's damaged, end of.

Absolutely. I did some research and bought some budget priced dampers that work perfectly with my set up. When I was looking for replacements, I emailed a number of potential suppliers/manufacturers asking about the damping characteristics of their products and their suitability given my spring fitment and usage. Britpart were the only one to reply with any meaningful information. Yes I had the crumbly bushes too. Disintegrated on fitting. Your set up and use sound similar to mine, I know it's off putting when things fail but the Cellulars really are very good...when working. I can't fault mine.

What failed?

I have the Cellular Dynamics on my 110 and I find them perfect. Fitted them 4 years ago and they still look as new.The supplied bushes were carp so I fitted standard rubbers. The Terrafirma look to be a good budget damper and have a bit more travel, however I have read of eyes breaking and the paint finish seems poor as they appear to rust quickly.

The FD35/T engines were a popular conversion in the 80s. I used to fit them. The engines pull like trains, however they're very very heavy and this can limit off road ability and on road handling. There are many unique parts to the conversions, probably now unobtainable, and getting parts for the engines themselves can be difficult and expensive. Buy something with a tdi in it, far less potential for trouble.

The gauges contain some very delicate wiring, I made one working temp gauge out of three broken ones. With hindsight I should just have bought a new one, frustratingly fiddly and best left well alone if working. Unfortunately the bulb housings fall apart when the heat from the bulbs degrades the plastic, then just handling the gauges with loose bits inside can be enough to render them useless. On another note, the orange paint...why?

Poor picture, but it looks like a Nissan FD35.

An engineer in the great British tradition, rip.

I've no idea what computer they were on. PM me your email and I'll take some more and send them. I wont get a chance until Sunday, but I can pop the top off so you can see how it all goes together. Even the simplest of pic's appears to exceed the file size limit on here now and I don't do photobucket etc. Pat

Happy to help. I hope it sorts the problem.

From where you are now, back off the throttle stop, say half a turn, and if ness' correct the idle speed. Repeat backing off until the engine just falters as it returns to idle after revving up, then go back the other way on the throttle stop just enough to eliminate the falter. Does that make sense?

Anti stall is set by adjusting the throttle lever rest position (throttle stop). With the idle speed set correctly (with the idle adjuster), raising the revs and snapping the throttle shut should bring it straight to idle. If it falters or stalls, you adjust up the throttle stop. If this is set too high it will take a long time to return to idle. Setting the anti stall may cause the idle to creep up slightly, in which case just drop it back down with the idle adjuster. These two adjustments can get out of synch' and this can lead to some odd symptoms around idle/low revs. Oh, and it's a DPS pump, the DPA was on the old 2.3 diesels.

It's been a few years since I worked on these, but IIRC the pump has two governors. One controls max rpm and the other controls idle speed. The idle adjustment is at the front of the pump and is a sprung loaded arm with a bolt/locknut. This is completely separate from lever the throttle cable is linked to. It might be worth playing with the idle and anti stall settings.

Adjusting the idle speed using the throttle stop/anti stall rather than the idle adjuster can give similar symptoms. If you rev it up and snap the throttle shut, does it come straight to idle or does it give a little hiccup first?

And I'd volunteer to do it.

Rust free, according to the advert. Possibly not the same vehicle...if you get my drift.

There's your answer.