T1G UP

clean cut rather than a laseration so i'd cut deliberate? Upset anyone lately???

have a play on this http://www.solemnwar...t/transmission/ Personally i love the RR borg warner TB. But ALL LR TB's have the same low range ratio, only way to alter that is by changing the ring and pinions. Thats the way i will do it.

been doing my research on this subject. TB lowest ratio is 1.6 then you'll need some 4.1 R&P's or 1.22 and 4.75's for loooow low range. Very spendy though

Daft question alert! What are Zeus gears???

I have recently tweaked my 200 tdi. went the whole hog as mine was sloooow. used this link http://www.stonefisk...uning_Rev.2.pdf Very informative. Print it out, stand over the engine and understand what is what BEFORE tampering.I took notes as suggested and test the mods out as i went. As i have an auto 200 the smoke screw was turn 1.5 turns as the engine is never laboured off boost due to the box. Little puff on start up, MUCH better take off from a junction etc due to having upped the off boost fueling. Turned the diaphram approx 180 deg to the max fuelling, easy to work out once you have read and understood what is what in the pump. Nice haze on full boost now but again never fully loaded up untill it locks into top gear. And finally i turned up the boost, approx 5-6 turns of the actuator, making it longer, to hold the boost higher. Much improved performance, will get to lock up speed, 45 ish, much easier now and will carry on accelerating over the legal limit. I have no EGT guage but have seen no ill effect and no massive rise in water temp etc. Again being an auto you don't drive it as hard as a manual. I had to retighten the boost hoses as they were singing...passing boost a little due to around 1- 1.1 bar of boost now. INtercooler upgrades on the cards next. If you are sensible this is the best mod i believe can be done on a 200 tdi for no cost what so ever. All the usual disclaimers apply but i like it

thought about air ride? big in the US and alot cheaper than the UK. best of both worlds for on and off road.

Lovely... a must for the trip to the super market how much AUS $ ?

do D2's suffer from the electrical gremlims of 90/110 td5's? Have you check for oil in the ECU?

R380 gearbox is the same for a TD5 / 300 TDI not sure on the dash situation. could use a 300 bulkhead, tunnel floor plates etc i guess

NFU for me, same senario here with both companies insured with them, if i want cover i call them and it's covered! Great to deal with on a personal level and will have a deal if they can.

thought i was the only saddo up!

only ay to sort it is to change master/ slave and the hose between. my td5 did it .....especially if someone else was driving! if they smacked the pedal down hard i guess it would flip i seal over somewhere and the clutch would go! after a few miles it would be back fine?! landrover eh

better change mine from petrol to diesel,manual to auto, sw to tc

having a complete donors a great idea. Richards chassis seem to get the nod from all,although i have beard the have quiet a leadtime due to popularity some nother maker? With the cost of a 200 tdi 90 at around 2-3K its a viable option

rotating the body of a turb is called "clocking" you can move the outlet around by undoing the bolts that hold the inlet / outlet to the bearing core. There will be restrictions and an intercooler is a must IMO

was the engine turned over twice before re assembly? shows up the timing issues if done. go back and start again following the guide on here

At last......

**** knows! Lazy ass way of joining looms IMO....get rid

Gromit, the blue plug, terminator?? whatever just jions some wires together, they seem to pul apart overtime. I'd cut and solder each wiring and do away with it ASAP.

Si, ECU was standard, was standard in the power train dept aswell. Fuel pumps fine IMO, may sound noisy to you but when shes all together is OK, save your money. "unlocked " ECU sounds the best bet, Dans offer sounds even better!!!

Thanks for the offer Bish....got 7" more than you though

Si I'd try another ecu without any of the plip ****e attached. Maybe the ECU just can't handle that? Never had any of that on it before so i'd try another ECU if poss. Have you / do the injectors need to be dailed in? If these things are so easy to pinch then maybe a factory imobilser is not the way to go?

Ok you got the classic blue connector problem. Pop the drivers seat up,turn on the ignition and twiddle the blue loom connector,you will here a relay click and the pump prime and the water in fuel light come on.won't fire unless the pump has primed and the fuel ights on. The erractic temp guage shows the electrical fault quite well.....been there ....done that. Whilst your there have the plug out of the ECU and check for oil.

Seems straight enough Chris? would contact him directly rather than Flame him here! Bank transfers safe if enough time left to clear fully! and you did want the business in the first place

Thats a great write up.