pete3000

Thanks for all the replies so far I'll have a fine tooth comb at the ready and let you know what the result is, I have the engine spec from my mate who may be confusing the 300tdi with 3 litre. The few small errors started to add up in the back of my mind, I'm not writing it off yet but, will need to be 101% sure as HFH says. I've walked away from a few "autotrader motors" in the past, although I am not sure where matey has seen this one advertised. I won't buy anything dodge, as it won't be worth the hassle with my concience or the police. Thanks for the vin plate locations, and fair point about the value of said vehicle, seems average (£3k 91 fair nic 5door sw) but will ask to see receipts etc. Guess if the engine has been transplanted it should be obvious, couldn't see last weekend. The other though is if the chassis has original mounts for a 300tdi its a definate non starter. Pete

Thanks Nige, Chassis has not been bobbed but looks very rust free? unusual for a 90-91. If whole body has been changed vin number will not match on seatox if correct location (on my ex-mil the vin plate is on seatbox)? Engine was stated as a 3 litre tdi which I haven't seen or heard yet but I am thinking may be an isuzu or similar. Or maybe a case of someone not knowing what size engine they have I guess the V5 will be the starting point. Pete

I am going to look at a fairly tidy 110 for sale this weekend for a mate. I have seen the vehicle on the drive from the outside for about 5 minutes as the guy was out when we called which was annoying. I think it needs closer inspection, I want to make sure it is the vehicle it is advertised as. It was described as a 110 Van which has had a new hardtop, on first look it has a newish 5 door station wagon complete new body inc bulkhead which has had a respray from green to white and maybe a 3 litre tdi engine??? Chassis looked to be mint which again warrants further inspection This link from tech archive didn't work (site gone?) http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=1996 Things I am looking to confirm: i.e range of numbers on chassis leg vehicle is registered on a H 90-91 (i'm pretty sure it is not a private plate) I've asked to see the V5 and any other supporting evidence. SALLDHAC etc which code is 90/91? DA? on seatbox and chassis Axle no's for the year 22......? Engine and gearbox numbers? if possible? Anything else I should be looking for, and how many points it needs to be legit. I am worried if too much has been changed or butchered it wont be worth the paper it comes with. And following one members horror story could be made up of various bits, which then require an SVA or worse. TIA, for any help or suggestions Pete

Sounds like not enough air through the 300 filter until the turbo spools up. Have you tried it with just the 300 airbox without the filter? This could cause an increase in fuel:air ratio as rich mentions but unless you have touched your timing and things return to normal with the 200 box i would say that...... My first thought is incorrect filter or something restricting airflow through box. Does it do it with just the 300 air box and filter fitted without the snorkel? Pete

had my ex-mil 110 off him back in 2003 it was a direct release from MOD and has been superb. I only needed a couple of minor oil leak jobs doing about a month after I had it which Marc's guys sorted no problems. The nice thing about Marc is his attitude to people after he has completed the sale. He let me crawl under and measure up other 110s after I had bought mine to complete my gearbox/engine swap. This was invaluable to get an idea of what went where and which bits I needed. I would have no hesitation buying another from him. I think from memory he is closed after 12pm on Saturday and not sure he is open Sunday, but a quick telephone call will confirm. Pete

Ah i see now. I think I would buy some reputable spacers, unless you have a welder and are confident with it. wouldn't like to trust my welds in safety critical bits at 70mph or under under heavy load. Besides you will pretty much write off the rims if you get it wrong. (out of balance). You could put 3 good pools of weld on then take them to the tyre shop to get them provisionally balanced. Pete

I usually just use the gear at the back and right I don't understand the question? do you mean put them on the rims inside to out? why arent they symetrical? if you have uneven wear you could rotate them corner to corner. Pete

Thanks Les. looking at your pic I have an extra hanger on my downpipe, we both have the same hanger and rubber donut going backwards 2-3" after the flange in between downpipe and centre section. My extra exhaust hanger is about 2 inches the other way (forward of the join of downpipe and centre box towards the engine side). I wondered after seeing another exhaust pic on here if it should be fixed to a bracket/bush the gearbox area to stop the downpipe flexing? I won't worry now after seeing your pics. I guess someone has added it for some purpose? The downpipe was supplied as part of my parcel of bits when I put the 300 in. The downpipe has also been cut and re-welded at some point. To remove/refit? it looks like a good weld though so I never messed. I think it all may have been taken from a 90 so may have a different downpipe? This is the only bit I kept as I had a new centre/rear box. Pete

Having a look at doing my gearbox mounts today, while I was under there I noticed the spare hanger on the downpipe. It occured to me that it should be hung up somewhere. Is there supposed to be a bracket or arm on the gearbox mount? I originally had a NAD2.5 so the other bracket you can see is a cobble using a long bolt/crush tube and off shelf hanger. pictures aren't the best but as they say are probably worth including. picture 1 shows the spare hanger on the downpipe (engine to top right) And my bracket which is holding the centre box front hanger. and round the other side of the centrebox is the rubber donut. bottom pic is the empty hanger and the bit of gearbox bracket. I'm hoping someone has a pic from manual or can tell me if I need a bracket/bits to bolt together. Looking at it now the setup isn't too convincing as there will be a fair amount of flex when the engine moves about. and the first hanger is bolted to the chassis and holds the centre box ????? Pete

glad to be of help.

Why don't you have a look a trakkers website under the offer page, I have just bought a set of new old stock G4 seats in as new condition for £225 +vat which is the price of 1 new one normally. The remaining colour choice may not be huge but you can always put a set of canvas protectors on them. They have a set of techno cloth heated for £250 +vat. bearing in mind they offer free delivery at the mo and 15% vat the offer was too good to miss (and I couldn't be bothered to do all the extra graft) Pete

dont forget some new new prop shaft nuts and bolts if you are taking your gearbox/tx gearbox down, to do clutch. some threadlock and some instant gasket (high temp rtv or hylomar) for sealing it all back together. Thinking belhousing to gearbox and transgearbox to gearbox. Fluids for both boxes? ATF/EP90 While you have got the props off you could grease/inspect the uj's. Only my tuppence worth but I'd be incline to have new gearbox mounts (decent or genuine) after seeing the state britpart cr*p I put on 5k ago. After all if you are having a new gear box anyway....... It never ends does it Pete

while the glow plug is on, after about 30 secs as fridge says the fuel pump will try and put fuel in to the heater. The pump is a solenoid pump and will "tick" in normal use, the fan should have started running before the fuel pump cuts in. I resorted to getting a service inspection done on mine as i was sold the unit with the wrong control box. Your control unit will trip out to avoid nasties once the heater has failed to start 5/10 times. Usually to stop you forcing the unit on with constant thermo trip or no fan etc etc. so they can inspect your setup and rectify. Good idea bu PITA. Pete

I should have kept that info quiet then DOH! must be a coincidence have noticed that most with 2 days left to run are over £120 pounds, they weren't selling for anything like this a couple of weeks back, must be the cold weather. I paid £72 for my 24v D1LC off ebay and was a bit of a basket case as the wrong controller was sold with it. After a service and a reset which cost another £70 in Cov, it has worked without flaws since. So totalled up £142 not bad as the new kits sell for £850-£1k. might be best to leave it till the summer, when everyone else is after air con units. Pete

................ im watching numerous 12V heaters on the E jumble sale and they are all on the wrong side of £200. Have a look at webasto thermotop C as above. they are cheaper and may suit your application better if you can get all the parts. £ starting at 99p the rarely go above £100. They work on the coolant system so warm your engine block and coolant so you can switch your heater straight on to demist after starting your engine. 1. heater module (various car) 2. pipework, exhaust and intake pipes, fuel pickup pipe, cooling system break in and out. 3. in line webasto pulse fuel pump. 4. control box and or timer and loom. if you are handy with adapting and making brackets and pipework then this is your cheapest option IMHO. Pete

from what I can make out it didn't turn up at the end of the thread. I would be very surprised if it only drew 1A on startup. So with no proved installation as such it's a bit pie in the sky. a bit like a storybook (haynes manual) My eberspacher uses 15-20A@24v to warm glowplug for 30 seconds before sustainable diesel combustion takes place. On shutdown or thermostat cut out it does the same again to make sure all diesel has gone/relight. it might only draw 1A when running to power the fan and the fuel pump but more likely 3A. Pete

I have the same heater in my 110 ex mil. It's easy for me though as I have a 24v alternator as well as a 12v system Looking through your listed options I would say that it is cheaper to flog it and buy a used 12v unit of the bay of E (buyer beware). You will probably need to get it serviced or repaired as the majority of 12v units are sold for a reason (incomplete/faulty). a better option might be a webasto thermotop c for block heating. These are similar (diesel powered) and not as expensive and fitted to a range of cars. They warm the coolant which then allows you to run your fan staight away to de-ice and start easier. all your other options require purchasing extra bits at considerable cost and extra complication. simplest is a couple of used UPS batteries 12v 38ah, or small 12 car batts linked in series. then a 12/24v gell charger. £100 in total beware though if your heater stops due to power outage or strangeness it might mess the control unit up which may require a dealer reset or for maximum expense get a dc 12 to 24v charger/inverter from http://www.sterling-power.com/products-battbatt.htm remember you will need around 50A input for 20A out. not sure of price. pete

Which ever inspection lamp you buy please get a low voltage one 12/24v. You will avoid the burns as well. A friend of mine at work was killed under a car when his mains inspection lamp bulb broke around an exhaust hanger, making the chassis live. I have a 12v non-rechargeable LED one which you can use out and about from, http://www.ebuyer.com/store/Home-&-Lei...ve-and-Lighting any of the rechargeable led lamps are good seem to be quite directional. Cheap too. or if you want a traditional style workshop one. something low voltage like. http://www.ccw-tools.com/product.asp?strPa...chStartRecord=1 or as dollythelw says the head torches are invaluable for any job where you need both hands free to hold tools. HTH P.S always use an RCD on your corded power tools when working outside. Pete

check to see if purple wire has a faint blue trace, could be the interior light switch branch used for the under bonnet alarm switch (not fitted on most older landrovers)

I bought the 3/8" drive prop nut tool off difflock, it is kept in my landy after discovering it's usefulness. I have used it several times, as have friends who were reluctant to return it. I was advised to go for the 3/8" over the 1/2" drive as the 3/8 access is much easier. Pete

I would have a look on e-bay and save yourself a small fortune in time and money . Search for led ufo light. or led camping light. I pay around a fiver runs off 4AA alkaline batteries. (don't use high power nicads, no current limit, burns them out quickly) these come with 24/48/36 leds and are really useful when camping or repairing as they have a low profile and can be stuck with a magnet, hung up or on a screw. Pete

IIRC there is both halves of 2 pin connector behind the mill fuse box, when connected together will combine the sidelight (redorange/redblack) circuits (front and rear) to give normal function back. You can then use the brown/red/blue smaller plug behind the centre console with a standard 90/110 light switch. brown perm feed (not fused) red side lights? blue headlights. Pete

Double check you want to go down this route as it's a lot of work. Are you sure your fuses are the correct rating. The glass types as found in the military landrovers show holding current not blow current. my side lights were listed as 2.5 amp and i couldn't work out why whem I plugged trailer in they would blow. They needed to be 5amp blow current fuses. Other than that give the terminals a brush and squeeze the sping together, with the fuse out to grip fuse a bit better. I did this job about 4 years ago when I put a 300tdi in my defender. I got hold of a salvage 95 loom (blade fuses) and both sets of wiring diagrams for military and civvy. It took the best part of two weeks to redraw and re-make a new loom to do what I wanted it to. My main motivation was because of timer plug relay and replacing feed to headlights. You shouldnt need to change the main cable through the chassis though. If you are feeling confident with electricery the go ahead. you need to keep some of the wiring for the connectors and relay bases. I would suggest splicing inside the cabin to prevent ingress of salt etc and use solder splices with adhesive lined heatshrink where you make the joints. Pete

similar thing from frosts, lumiweld, I can vouch for this product. you will need a pencil torch or blow torch. http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?pro...=&subCatID= They do quality stuff (dinitrol, chassis paint, engine paint, etc) Pete

I wouldn't mount the alternators side by side using the same belt, purely because the bet will slip on the pulley if you don't get enough belt wrap around. you need to put them on seperate belts to do this or use another small pulley on the back of the belt to zig zag the belt between alternators to increase the contact area on each pulley. As an example the power steering pump on the 300tdi goes some way to achieve this. Don't know if this is possible using v belts as the thickness of the reduces the bendy/flexibility. HTH